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> Need structeral pictures

rickf
post Jul 31 2010, 04:34 PM
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Group: Members
Posts: 34
Joined: 14-June 10
Member No.: 4,417
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Fleetwood
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 1996 Ford F-250 Diesel 4X4
Type of Tiedowns used: Custom
Truck and Camper Setup: Ford F-250, Heavy duty leafs, Fleetwood 11 foot with custom made tie downs



I am looking for some pictures or drawings of the structure of these pick up campers. I need to do some work on mine and I would like to educate myself before getting into it. That way I know what to remove and what not to remove. Fleetwood pics would be nice but any will suffice. I am sure they are all generally the same.
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tom
post Jul 31 2010, 07:27 PM
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Group: Members
Posts: 49
Joined: 11-June 10
Member No.: 4,385
Favorite Truck Camper(s): ulta lite 1200lbs to me is not lite
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: f150 ford
Type of Tiedowns used: home built to frame
Truck and Camper Setup: looked for something really lite, nothing on the market. Wanted something less than half of the rated weight load for a 1/2 ton truck.Like to be realistic about weight capacities. Built a totally aluminum unit. 8 ft. box, 80 in. wide, 80 in. high. With door, windows and AC and jacks I can still left one end by hand and I'm over 60. I'm guessing at this point unit must be around 200 lbs.



I recently built a TC and got great pics buy going to the major manufactures sites. Many have pretty detailed pics. You will probably have a good idea how there put together after looking at several. Too me most are very similar. The problem I have with working on them is that there built from the inside out. Also you might try looking at the rebuild discussions in the forum, many have pics.

Have fun!

Tom.
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DMAC
post Aug 3 2010, 01:13 PM
Post #3





Group: Members
Posts: 29
Joined: 13-July 10
Member No.: 4,553
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Amerigo
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 2001 F-350 SRW 4X4 crew cab
Type of Tiedowns used: Torklift front/ Homemade rear
Truck and Camper Setup: 2001 F-350: Ride Rite Air Bags, Torklift Tiedowns, Front cooler rack. 1976 Amerigo Totally Restored to 2010 specs, fully loaded.



Hello,
Attached are photos of my Amerigo rebuild. Basic 2x2 construction with a 2x6 header on both sides and a 2x4 at the bottoms. All intersections have galvanized deck angles for strength and coated screws. Between outside skin and frame is pre-cut insulation foam and then I used lauan plywood for finishing.
Good Luck!
DMAC
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DMAC
post Aug 3 2010, 02:04 PM
Post #4





Group: Members
Posts: 29
Joined: 13-July 10
Member No.: 4,553
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Amerigo
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 2001 F-350 SRW 4X4 crew cab
Type of Tiedowns used: Torklift front/ Homemade rear
Truck and Camper Setup: 2001 F-350: Ride Rite Air Bags, Torklift Tiedowns, Front cooler rack. 1976 Amerigo Totally Restored to 2010 specs, fully loaded.



Made the file smaller....
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rickf
post Aug 3 2010, 04:31 PM
Post #5





Group: Members
Posts: 34
Joined: 14-June 10
Member No.: 4,417
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Fleetwood
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 1996 Ford F-250 Diesel 4X4
Type of Tiedowns used: Custom
Truck and Camper Setup: Ford F-250, Heavy duty leafs, Fleetwood 11 foot with custom made tie downs



QUOTE(DMAC @ Aug 3 2010, 02:04 PM)
Made the file smaller....
*




DMAC, Is that a side entrance? Looks almost exactly like my layout.

Rick
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DMAC
post Aug 3 2010, 09:13 PM
Post #6





Group: Members
Posts: 29
Joined: 13-July 10
Member No.: 4,553
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Amerigo
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 2001 F-350 SRW 4X4 crew cab
Type of Tiedowns used: Torklift front/ Homemade rear
Truck and Camper Setup: 2001 F-350: Ride Rite Air Bags, Torklift Tiedowns, Front cooler rack. 1976 Amerigo Totally Restored to 2010 specs, fully loaded.



Yes, it's a side entrance with the snap n nap in the back. Just finished it this June.
Worked all winter on it. Now the family is enjoying it.

Dave
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rickf
post Aug 4 2010, 11:31 AM
Post #7





Group: Members
Posts: 34
Joined: 14-June 10
Member No.: 4,417
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Fleetwood
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 1996 Ford F-250 Diesel 4X4
Type of Tiedowns used: Custom
Truck and Camper Setup: Ford F-250, Heavy duty leafs, Fleetwood 11 foot with custom made tie downs



QUOTE(DMAC @ Aug 3 2010, 09:13 PM)
Yes, it's a side entrance with the snap n nap in the back. Just finished it this June.
Worked all winter on it. Now the family is enjoying it.

Dave
*



Thanks for the pic's. Mine is a Fleetwood so it is a little different but I have seen very few side exit T/C's.

Anyone else with pictures they would like to share? Especially the cabover and main front section.

Rick
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tom
post Aug 4 2010, 07:08 PM
Post #8





Group: Members
Posts: 49
Joined: 11-June 10
Member No.: 4,385
Favorite Truck Camper(s): ulta lite 1200lbs to me is not lite
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: f150 ford
Type of Tiedowns used: home built to frame
Truck and Camper Setup: looked for something really lite, nothing on the market. Wanted something less than half of the rated weight load for a 1/2 ton truck.Like to be realistic about weight capacities. Built a totally aluminum unit. 8 ft. box, 80 in. wide, 80 in. high. With door, windows and AC and jacks I can still left one end by hand and I'm over 60. I'm guessing at this point unit must be around 200 lbs.



Here's some pics that might help.

Tom
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WesGPS
post Aug 4 2010, 07:35 PM
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Group: Members
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From: Shelbyville, TN
Member No.: 4,341
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Lance
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 2005 Dodge 5.7L Hemi 2500 Heavy Duty Short Box.
Type of Tiedowns used: Torklift with Fastguns
Truck and Camper Setup: 2009 Lance 845 Fully Equipped



QUOTE(DMAC @ Aug 3 2010, 02:04 PM)
Made the file smaller....
*



Now that's craftsmanship! Wow.


--------------------
user posted image
2009 Lance 845 with LP Generator, Roof Air, Flat Screen TV, DVD - and more to come.
2005 Dodge 5.7L Hemi Heavy Duty Short Box 4X4.
Hellwig Anti Sway Bar, AirLift 5000 Air Bags, Viair Compressor and Tank With Modified Wireless Air Remote Air Bag Control.

WesGPS.com
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rickf
post Aug 5 2010, 08:32 AM
Post #10





Group: Members
Posts: 34
Joined: 14-June 10
Member No.: 4,417
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Fleetwood
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 1996 Ford F-250 Diesel 4X4
Type of Tiedowns used: Custom
Truck and Camper Setup: Ford F-250, Heavy duty leafs, Fleetwood 11 foot with custom made tie downs



QUOTE(WesGPS @ Aug 4 2010, 07:35 PM)
Now that's craftsmanship! Wow.
*



Wes, Thanks, That is what I am looking for. That is some real nice work on the aluminum! I see you had to shrink the file for the forum, If you want you can E-mail me the original. My e-mail is rickf1985@comcast.net.

Thanks, Rick
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DMAC
post Aug 5 2010, 09:13 AM
Post #11





Group: Members
Posts: 29
Joined: 13-July 10
Member No.: 4,553
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Amerigo
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 2001 F-350 SRW 4X4 crew cab
Type of Tiedowns used: Torklift front/ Homemade rear
Truck and Camper Setup: 2001 F-350: Ride Rite Air Bags, Torklift Tiedowns, Front cooler rack. 1976 Amerigo Totally Restored to 2010 specs, fully loaded.



I agree...very nice job. It's always nice to see someone take pride in their work.
The effort pays of in the end.
Lots of luck with it.
Dave
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82Wilderness
post Aug 6 2010, 12:00 AM
Post #12





Group: Members
Posts: 10
Joined: 19-April 10
Member No.: 4,081
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Western Wilderness
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: F250 Superduty
Type of Tiedowns used: Torklift
Truck and Camper Setup: 2001 F-250 7.3 Superduty Stock 1982 Western Wilderness Air Bags (coming soon) Torklift Superhitch w/ Fastguns



Rick,

I am remodeling an aluminum frame camper. Here is the link to all the pictures. Hope they help.

-Matt

82 Western Wilderness Rebuild
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tom
post Aug 6 2010, 07:01 PM
Post #13





Group: Members
Posts: 49
Joined: 11-June 10
Member No.: 4,385
Favorite Truck Camper(s): ulta lite 1200lbs to me is not lite
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: f150 ford
Type of Tiedowns used: home built to frame
Truck and Camper Setup: looked for something really lite, nothing on the market. Wanted something less than half of the rated weight load for a 1/2 ton truck.Like to be realistic about weight capacities. Built a totally aluminum unit. 8 ft. box, 80 in. wide, 80 in. high. With door, windows and AC and jacks I can still left one end by hand and I'm over 60. I'm guessing at this point unit must be around 200 lbs.



QUOTE(82Wilderness @ Aug 6 2010, 01:00 AM)
Rick,

I am remodeling an aluminum frame camper.  Here is the link to all the pictures.  Hope they help.

-Matt

82 Western Wilderness Rebuild
*


Matt,

I just saw your rebuild pictures, unbelievable! Do you have to rebuild the entire camper?

I'm also curious about the size of the aluminum, tube size and tube wall thickness.

Looks like a great job!

Tom
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82Wilderness
post Aug 7 2010, 12:41 AM
Post #14





Group: Members
Posts: 10
Joined: 19-April 10
Member No.: 4,081
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Western Wilderness
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: F250 Superduty
Type of Tiedowns used: Torklift
Truck and Camper Setup: 2001 F-250 7.3 Superduty Stock 1982 Western Wilderness Air Bags (coming soon) Torklift Superhitch w/ Fastguns



QUOTE(tom @ Aug 7 2010, 12:01 AM)
Matt,

I just saw your rebuild pictures, unbelievable! Do you have to rebuild the entire camper?

I'm also curious about the size of the aluminum, tube size and tube wall thickness.

Looks like a great job!

Tom
*



There was enough water damage to justify taking all of it apart. And, we thought since we are going to all the work, might as well. The back wall and side walls use 3/4" x 3/4" and 3/4" x 1 1/2". The roof, front panels (connecting the side panels over the cab-over), and the bed frame use 1" x 1" and 1" x 2". As far as the tube thickness, I am not completely sure. We added 3/4" and 1" tube pieces and I think they were 1/16" thick. But, some of the original may be 1/20". It seems pretty thin, but as a tube its fairly strong. Plus, when you add the wood panels to both sides of the frame, it really adds strength.

Hope this info helps.

-Matt
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82Wilderness
post Aug 7 2010, 12:48 AM
Post #15





Group: Members
Posts: 10
Joined: 19-April 10
Member No.: 4,081
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Western Wilderness
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: F250 Superduty
Type of Tiedowns used: Torklift
Truck and Camper Setup: 2001 F-250 7.3 Superduty Stock 1982 Western Wilderness Air Bags (coming soon) Torklift Superhitch w/ Fastguns



Tom,
I also forgot to mention that your camper looks great. It's a shame that the frame will get covered up. Did you weld or bolt your joints together? I noticed on our camper the original manufacturer welded only one side of the tube to allow for movement. We also made L brackets for joints were the welds broke.

-Matt
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tom
post Aug 7 2010, 06:44 AM
Post #16





Group: Members
Posts: 49
Joined: 11-June 10
Member No.: 4,385
Favorite Truck Camper(s): ulta lite 1200lbs to me is not lite
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: f150 ford
Type of Tiedowns used: home built to frame
Truck and Camper Setup: looked for something really lite, nothing on the market. Wanted something less than half of the rated weight load for a 1/2 ton truck.Like to be realistic about weight capacities. Built a totally aluminum unit. 8 ft. box, 80 in. wide, 80 in. high. With door, windows and AC and jacks I can still left one end by hand and I'm over 60. I'm guessing at this point unit must be around 200 lbs.



QUOTE(82Wilderness @ Aug 7 2010, 01:48 AM)
Tom,
I also forgot to mention that your camper looks great.  It's a shame that the frame will get covered up.  Did you weld or bolt your joints together?  I noticed on our camper the original manufacturer welded only one side of the tube to allow for movement.  We also made L brackets for joints were the welds broke.

-Matt
*


Matt'

Thanks for the reply. Believe it or not I used pop rivets. Three rivets on each leg of the angle. I used 3/16 in. for the general framing and 1/4 in. in the areas where i thought there would be a lot of stress. I have two l brackets at each joint. I did a test with a welded joint and one with pop rivets. The welded joints gave way first either the weld would break or the metal would tear right at the edge of the weld. The pop rivets loosened up but held. I think either would be strong enough, as I won't be beating the joints with a sledge hammer in normal use. I also found a 5th wheel manufacturer (Cruiser Fith Wheel) that uses L brackets and screws for their framing. It was good that some one else thought it was a good idea.

Tom
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rickf
post Aug 23 2010, 04:42 PM
Post #17





Group: Members
Posts: 34
Joined: 14-June 10
Member No.: 4,417
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Fleetwood
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 1996 Ford F-250 Diesel 4X4
Type of Tiedowns used: Custom
Truck and Camper Setup: Ford F-250, Heavy duty leafs, Fleetwood 11 foot with custom made tie downs



QUOTE(tom @ Aug 4 2010, 07:08 PM)
Here's some pics that might help.

Tom
*




Tom, Do you have any close ups of the wood frame? I have found that the area over the left bed rail of the truck is rotted badly. It is luann attached somehow to 2X2's. I can't tell how it is attached to the 2X2's plus the 2X2's are dry rotted. I am seeing no screws or nails, how is this held together? I need to replace the bare minimum while on the truck for a trip in a week, after that I can take it off and get better access. I was thinking of using 1/4 inch pressure treated plywood for those areas in the bed and covering with fiberglass. Ideas?

I also noticed the cieling over the top bunk is soft on one side. I think this was probably from a leak that looks like it was seal years ago in the roof. Same question, what holds this stuff on?

Rick
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tom
post Aug 23 2010, 10:29 PM
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Group: Members
Posts: 49
Joined: 11-June 10
Member No.: 4,385
Favorite Truck Camper(s): ulta lite 1200lbs to me is not lite
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: f150 ford
Type of Tiedowns used: home built to frame
Truck and Camper Setup: looked for something really lite, nothing on the market. Wanted something less than half of the rated weight load for a 1/2 ton truck.Like to be realistic about weight capacities. Built a totally aluminum unit. 8 ft. box, 80 in. wide, 80 in. high. With door, windows and AC and jacks I can still left one end by hand and I'm over 60. I'm guessing at this point unit must be around 200 lbs.



QUOTE(rickf @ Aug 23 2010, 05:42 PM)
Tom, Do you have any close ups of the wood frame? I have found that the area over the left bed rail of the truck is rotted badly. It is luann attached somehow to 2X2's. I can't tell how it is attached to the 2X2's plus the 2X2's are dry rotted. I am seeing no screws or nails, how is this held together? I need to replace the bare minimum while on the truck for a trip in a week, after that I can take it off and get better access. I was thinking of using 1/4 inch pressure treated plywood for those areas in the bed and covering with fiberglass. Ideas?

I also noticed the cieling over the top bunk is soft on one side. I think this was probably from a leak that looks like it was seal years ago in the roof. Same question, what holds this stuff on?

Rick
*


Sorry, I do not have any close ups. My experience has been that the paneling is usually stapled with 1/4 inch staples. The almost disappear into the paneling. Some times glue is also used on the framing with the staple. The paneling can also be trapped. Being built from the inside out, the manufacture might have built the wall independent. Applying the paneling and then installing the cabinets over the paneling. Where the walls connect to each other, like the back to the side, the paneling will be trapped on the last wall to be installed.

If you can't see any fasteners my guess is the framing might be stapled together. They use a wide staple that spans the joint and connects the pieces together.

As far as leaks go, I have a bad attitude about them. I've been around RV's
since I was a kid, I have this theory that their built too leak. Any joint or hole through the skin has a high possibility of leaking. In almost all the leaks I've repaired it was because of the tape/caulk product the companies use fails or never sealed from day one. The old TC I used as a template was built in 2004. As rotted as it was, roof, walls, over the cab section and all four corners, it had to be leaking from day one. It just seems that there is not much attention to detail as for as making them water tight.

I don't know about that 1/4 inch PT plywood and fiber glass?

What kind of skin does your camper now?

Hope this helps, Tom
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rickf
post Aug 24 2010, 07:11 AM
Post #19





Group: Members
Posts: 34
Joined: 14-June 10
Member No.: 4,417
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Fleetwood
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 1996 Ford F-250 Diesel 4X4
Type of Tiedowns used: Custom
Truck and Camper Setup: Ford F-250, Heavy duty leafs, Fleetwood 11 foot with custom made tie downs



QUOTE(tom @ Aug 23 2010, 10:29 PM)
Sorry, I do not have any close ups. My experience has been that the paneling is usually stapled with 1/4 inch staples. The almost disappear into the paneling. Some times glue is also used on the framing with the staple. The paneling can also be trapped. Being built from the inside out, the manufacture might have built the wall independent. Applying the paneling and then installing the cabinets over the paneling. Where the walls connect to each other, like the back to the side, the paneling will be trapped on the last wall to be installed.

If you can't see any fasteners my guess is the framing might be stapled together. They use a wide staple that spans the joint and connects the pieces together.

As far as leaks go, I have a bad attitude about them.  I've been around RV's
since I was a kid, I have this theory that their built too leak. Any joint or hole through the skin has a high possibility of leaking. In almost all the leaks I've repaired it was because of the tape/caulk product the companies use fails or never sealed from day one. The old TC I used as a template was built in 2004. As rotted as it was, roof, walls, over the cab section and all four corners, it had to be leaking from day one. It just seems that there is not much attention to detail as for as making them water tight.

I don't know about that 1/4 inch PT plywood and fiber glass?

What kind of skin does your camper now?

Hope this helps, Tom
*


Camper has aluminum skin but where I was talking about glassing is the area that sits in the bed. That is Luann paneling covered with some kind of undercoating. I figured if I have to replace that then glassing it over would waterproof it a lot better than a spray on undercoating. I think for this trip I am just going to cover over what is there with a piece of 1/4 ply and through bolt it to the inner panel in the cabinets and put some glue on it also. That will get me by until I get it off in a couple of weeks and can tear out all of the old stuff. The problem is that I do not want to compromise the structure as I am removing stuff. If a lot of it is rotted then I am guessing the siding is doing most of the work right now. I need to get a concrete pad poured so I have a level surface to work from and use for reference.

Rick
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tom
post Aug 24 2010, 03:39 PM
Post #20





Group: Members
Posts: 49
Joined: 11-June 10
Member No.: 4,385
Favorite Truck Camper(s): ulta lite 1200lbs to me is not lite
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: f150 ford
Type of Tiedowns used: home built to frame
Truck and Camper Setup: looked for something really lite, nothing on the market. Wanted something less than half of the rated weight load for a 1/2 ton truck.Like to be realistic about weight capacities. Built a totally aluminum unit. 8 ft. box, 80 in. wide, 80 in. high. With door, windows and AC and jacks I can still left one end by hand and I'm over 60. I'm guessing at this point unit must be around 200 lbs.



QUOTE(rickf @ Aug 24 2010, 08:11 AM)
Camper has aluminum skin but where I was talking about glassing is the area that sits in the bed. That is Luann paneling covered with some kind of undercoating. I figured if I have to replace that then glassing it over would waterproof it a lot better than a spray on undercoating. I think for this trip I am just going to cover over what is there with a piece of 1/4 ply and through bolt it to the inner panel in the cabinets and put some glue on it also. That will get me by until I get it off in a couple of weeks and can tear out all of the old stuff. The problem is that I do not want to compromise the structure as I am removing stuff. If a lot of it is rotted then I am guessing the siding is doing most of the work right now. I need to get a concrete pad poured so I have a level surface to work from and use for reference.

Rick
*


Rick,

Is the section that sets in the bed framed? Sometimes that bottom section is just 5/8 or 3/4 inch plywood clear up to and including the piece over the truck bed rail.

Tom
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