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> Need structeral pictures

rickf
post Aug 24 2010, 04:30 PM
Post #21





Group: Members
Posts: 34
Joined: 14-June 10
Member No.: 4,417
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Fleetwood
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 1996 Ford F-250 Diesel 4X4
Type of Tiedowns used: Custom
Truck and Camper Setup: Ford F-250, Heavy duty leafs, Fleetwood 11 foot with custom made tie downs



QUOTE(tom @ Aug 24 2010, 03:39 PM)
Rick,

Is the section that sets in the bed framed? Sometimes that bottom section is just 5/8 or 3/4 inch plywood clear up to and including the piece over the truck bed rail.

Tom
*



I can tell you that the section over bed rail is framed. That is the section that is rotted. I can push righ5t through the luann and feel 2X2 framing. Not much of it though and what I feel is real soft. That is about the outer 12 inches toward the outside. The inner part of the over rail section is still solid. Now that I think of it the bottom side is just plywood, the door from inside to the bed area is just that, A hinged piece of plywood. Is that good or bad? The front wall is pulling out from the floor a little on the passenger side also.

If you want to pm me a phone number I can call you with any specifics.

Rick
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tom
post Aug 24 2010, 06:49 PM
Post #22





Group: Members
Posts: 49
Joined: 11-June 10
Member No.: 4,385
Favorite Truck Camper(s): ulta lite 1200lbs to me is not lite
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: f150 ford
Type of Tiedowns used: home built to frame
Truck and Camper Setup: looked for something really lite, nothing on the market. Wanted something less than half of the rated weight load for a 1/2 ton truck.Like to be realistic about weight capacities. Built a totally aluminum unit. 8 ft. box, 80 in. wide, 80 in. high. With door, windows and AC and jacks I can still left one end by hand and I'm over 60. I'm guessing at this point unit must be around 200 lbs.



QUOTE(rickf @ Aug 24 2010, 05:30 PM)
I can tell you that the section over bed rail is framed. That is the section that is rotted. I can push righ5t through the luann and feel 2X2 framing. Not much of it though and what I feel is real soft. That is about the outer 12 inches toward the outside. The inner part of the over rail section is still solid. Now that I think of it the bottom side is just plywood, the door from inside to the bed area is just that, A hinged piece of plywood. Is that good or bad? The front wall is pulling out from the floor a little on the passenger side also.

If you want to pm me a phone number I can call you with any specifics.

Rick
*


Rick,

Can you post some pics of what your looking at?

Tom.
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rickf
post Aug 24 2010, 07:07 PM
Post #23





Group: Members
Posts: 34
Joined: 14-June 10
Member No.: 4,417
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Fleetwood
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 1996 Ford F-250 Diesel 4X4
Type of Tiedowns used: Custom
Truck and Camper Setup: Ford F-250, Heavy duty leafs, Fleetwood 11 foot with custom made tie downs



QUOTE(tom @ Aug 24 2010, 06:49 PM)
Rick,

Can you post some pics of what your looking at?

Tom.
*


I'll get some pictures tomorrow. I did some more crawling around and the the inner side is also framed. The thing that scares me is all I am seeing in the way of framing is 1X1 or smaller!!!
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rickf
post Sep 12 2010, 01:09 PM
Post #24





Group: Members
Posts: 34
Joined: 14-June 10
Member No.: 4,417
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Fleetwood
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 1996 Ford F-250 Diesel 4X4
Type of Tiedowns used: Custom
Truck and Camper Setup: Ford F-250, Heavy duty leafs, Fleetwood 11 foot with custom made tie downs



QUOTE(tom @ Aug 24 2010, 06:49 PM)
Rick,

Can you post some pics of what your looking at?

Tom.
*



Tom, I did not get a chance to get pictures due to the fact that I was leaving on a Thursday and I needed to seal that area on Wednesday! I did find the main cause and it is a little disconcerting. There is a patch on the roof directly above the rotted area. I felt the patch and there is NOTHING under it! It is just some rubberized fabric over a rotted hole. Now I know where the water was coming from and it has me thinking that since it came down through the wall then the entire wall is probably gone. What holds the metal skin on besides the strips at the top and sides? Do the metal sections come off separately or are they permanently attached to each other and have to come off as a whole side? What is the best way to support the camper while working on it? I am assuming you can't work on the floor since that is the weight bearing area.


Rick
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82Wilderness
post Sep 12 2010, 10:17 PM
Post #25





Group: Members
Posts: 10
Joined: 19-April 10
Member No.: 4,081
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Western Wilderness
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: F250 Superduty
Type of Tiedowns used: Torklift
Truck and Camper Setup: 2001 F-250 7.3 Superduty Stock 1982 Western Wilderness Air Bags (coming soon) Torklift Superhitch w/ Fastguns



Rick, thought I would throw in some info from what I have learned taking my camper apart. On ours, there is 1/8" plywood between the frame and the outer metal skin. The frame on ours is aluminum. When we pulled off the siding, the original wood paneling was just scraps put here and there and didn't offer any support. We used full sheets as much as possible to help give more support to the frame. The exterior skin should be strips that connect together. On ours, the top piece was stapled to the frame and the gutter rail bolted on top. Then, the bottom of the top piece was stapled down. Then next piece gets inserted into the top piece, covering the bottom part that was stapled down. I'm not sure I am explaining this very well, but let me know if its confusing. I'm actually in the middle of putting new siding on our camper and I can send you some detail pictures. It is fairly tricky trying to pull the old stuff out. If the piece is fairly long, then you might want to get some extra help so that the piece doesn't get kinked or bent. As for supporting your camper, we used some bottle jacks and 4x4 posts with a hole drilled in the middle to support the sides when needed. Sorry for the long post, but hopefully this will help. Good luck.

PS - We ordered our new siding from interstatemetals.com. If you go to the online catalog and aluminum siding, they have some pictures of the different seams. Ours is the s-lock. The seam should be the bottom of piece and the next piece would slide into that fold. Also, Glen-L RV plans is a website that sells plans for building campers and trailers. They have a section of builder photos from various people. Some of those might show some of the frame work and how they supported the sides while building it.

-Matt
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tom
post Sep 13 2010, 07:03 AM
Post #26





Group: Members
Posts: 49
Joined: 11-June 10
Member No.: 4,385
Favorite Truck Camper(s): ulta lite 1200lbs to me is not lite
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: f150 ford
Type of Tiedowns used: home built to frame
Truck and Camper Setup: looked for something really lite, nothing on the market. Wanted something less than half of the rated weight load for a 1/2 ton truck.Like to be realistic about weight capacities. Built a totally aluminum unit. 8 ft. box, 80 in. wide, 80 in. high. With door, windows and AC and jacks I can still left one end by hand and I'm over 60. I'm guessing at this point unit must be around 200 lbs.



QUOTE(rickf @ Sep 12 2010, 02:09 PM)
Tom, I did not get a chance to get pictures due to the fact that I was leaving on a Thursday and I needed to seal that area on Wednesday! I did find the main cause and it is a little disconcerting. There is a patch on the roof directly above the rotted area. I felt the patch and there is NOTHING under it! It is just some rubberized fabric over a rotted hole. Now I know where the water was coming from and it has me thinking that since it came down through the wall then the entire wall is probably gone. What holds the metal skin on besides the strips at the top and sides? Do the metal sections come off separately or are they permanently attached to each other and have to come off as a whole side? What is the best way to support the camper while working on it? I am assuming you can't work on the floor since that is the weight bearing area.
Rick
*


Rick,
Matt sums it up pretty good. Sounds like I had the same type of siding. Only difference was I removed it from wood framing. I made a long chisel out of a piece of flat stock steel. Started from the top, pulled back the siding just far enough to get the chisel down near where the staples are. A couple raps with a hammer and the staples shear off or tears out with out damaging the siding.
Hope this helps !
Tom,
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Camper_Newbie
post Aug 13 2014, 08:37 AM
Post #27





Group: Members
Posts: 1
Joined: 13-August 14
Member No.: 7,713
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Capri Rodeo Deluxe
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: Ford F-250
Type of Tiedowns used: None
Truck and Camper Setup: F-250, Rodeo Deluxe Mounted on and bolted down



QUOTE(tom @ Aug 4 2010, 07:08 PM)
Here's some pics that might help.

Tom
*



Hi Tom,

I have a what seems to be a similar camper (make) to yours. Looks like same setup and ready to build my own aluminum frame. How did you go about doing this? Is this gonna take me forever to get done? appreciate any advice.

Thanks,

Newbie
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