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Truck Camper Forum _ General Discussion _ Need structeral pictures

Posted by: rickf Jul 31 2010, 04:34 PM

I am looking for some pictures or drawings of the structure of these pick up campers. I need to do some work on mine and I would like to educate myself before getting into it. That way I know what to remove and what not to remove. Fleetwood pics would be nice but any will suffice. I am sure they are all generally the same.

Posted by: tom Jul 31 2010, 07:27 PM

I recently built a TC and got great pics buy going to the major manufactures sites. Many have pretty detailed pics. You will probably have a good idea how there put together after looking at several. Too me most are very similar. The problem I have with working on them is that there built from the inside out. Also you might try looking at the rebuild discussions in the forum, many have pics.

Have fun!

Tom.

Posted by: DMAC Aug 3 2010, 01:13 PM

Hello,
Attached are photos of my Amerigo rebuild. Basic 2x2 construction with a 2x6 header on both sides and a 2x4 at the bottoms. All intersections have galvanized deck angles for strength and coated screws. Between outside skin and frame is pre-cut insulation foam and then I used lauan plywood for finishing.
Good Luck!
DMAC

Posted by: DMAC Aug 3 2010, 02:04 PM

Made the file smaller....

Posted by: rickf Aug 3 2010, 04:31 PM

QUOTE(DMAC @ Aug 3 2010, 02:04 PM)
Made the file smaller....
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DMAC, Is that a side entrance? Looks almost exactly like my layout.

Rick

Posted by: DMAC Aug 3 2010, 09:13 PM

Yes, it's a side entrance with the snap n nap in the back. Just finished it this June.
Worked all winter on it. Now the family is enjoying it.

Dave

Posted by: rickf Aug 4 2010, 11:31 AM

QUOTE(DMAC @ Aug 3 2010, 09:13 PM)
Yes, it's a side entrance with the snap n nap in the back. Just finished it this June.
Worked all winter on it. Now the family is enjoying it.

Dave
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Thanks for the pic's. Mine is a Fleetwood so it is a little different but I have seen very few side exit T/C's.

Anyone else with pictures they would like to share? Especially the cabover and main front section.

Rick

Posted by: tom Aug 4 2010, 07:08 PM

Here's some pics that might help.

Tom

Posted by: WesGPS Aug 4 2010, 07:35 PM

QUOTE(DMAC @ Aug 3 2010, 02:04 PM)
Made the file smaller....
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Now that's craftsmanship! Wow.

Posted by: rickf Aug 5 2010, 08:32 AM

QUOTE(WesGPS @ Aug 4 2010, 07:35 PM)
Now that's craftsmanship! Wow.
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Wes, Thanks, That is what I am looking for. That is some real nice work on the aluminum! I see you had to shrink the file for the forum, If you want you can E-mail me the original. My e-mail is rickf1985@comcast.net.

Thanks, Rick

Posted by: DMAC Aug 5 2010, 09:13 AM

I agree...very nice job. It's always nice to see someone take pride in their work.
The effort pays of in the end.
Lots of luck with it.
Dave

Posted by: 82Wilderness Aug 6 2010, 12:00 AM

Rick,

I am remodeling an aluminum frame camper. Here is the link to all the pictures. Hope they help.

-Matt

http://s795.photobucket.com/albums/yy235/82Wilderness/82%20Wilderness%20Camper%20Remodel/

Posted by: tom Aug 6 2010, 07:01 PM

QUOTE(82Wilderness @ Aug 6 2010, 01:00 AM)
Rick,

I am remodeling an aluminum frame camper.  Here is the link to all the pictures.  Hope they help.

-Matt

http://s795.photobucket.com/albums/yy235/82Wilderness/82%20Wilderness%20Camper%20Remodel/
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Matt,

I just saw your rebuild pictures, unbelievable! Do you have to rebuild the entire camper?

I'm also curious about the size of the aluminum, tube size and tube wall thickness.

Looks like a great job!

Tom

Posted by: 82Wilderness Aug 7 2010, 12:41 AM

QUOTE(tom @ Aug 7 2010, 12:01 AM)
Matt,

I just saw your rebuild pictures, unbelievable! Do you have to rebuild the entire camper?

I'm also curious about the size of the aluminum, tube size and tube wall thickness.

Looks like a great job!

Tom
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There was enough water damage to justify taking all of it apart. And, we thought since we are going to all the work, might as well. The back wall and side walls use 3/4" x 3/4" and 3/4" x 1 1/2". The roof, front panels (connecting the side panels over the cab-over), and the bed frame use 1" x 1" and 1" x 2". As far as the tube thickness, I am not completely sure. We added 3/4" and 1" tube pieces and I think they were 1/16" thick. But, some of the original may be 1/20". It seems pretty thin, but as a tube its fairly strong. Plus, when you add the wood panels to both sides of the frame, it really adds strength.

Hope this info helps.

-Matt

Posted by: 82Wilderness Aug 7 2010, 12:48 AM

Tom,
I also forgot to mention that your camper looks great. It's a shame that the frame will get covered up. Did you weld or bolt your joints together? I noticed on our camper the original manufacturer welded only one side of the tube to allow for movement. We also made L brackets for joints were the welds broke.

-Matt

Posted by: tom Aug 7 2010, 06:44 AM

QUOTE(82Wilderness @ Aug 7 2010, 01:48 AM)
Tom,
I also forgot to mention that your camper looks great.  It's a shame that the frame will get covered up.  Did you weld or bolt your joints together?  I noticed on our camper the original manufacturer welded only one side of the tube to allow for movement.  We also made L brackets for joints were the welds broke.

-Matt
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Matt'

Thanks for the reply. Believe it or not I used pop rivets. Three rivets on each leg of the angle. I used 3/16 in. for the general framing and 1/4 in. in the areas where i thought there would be a lot of stress. I have two l brackets at each joint. I did a test with a welded joint and one with pop rivets. The welded joints gave way first either the weld would break or the metal would tear right at the edge of the weld. The pop rivets loosened up but held. I think either would be strong enough, as I won't be beating the joints with a sledge hammer in normal use. I also found a 5th wheel manufacturer (Cruiser Fith Wheel) that uses L brackets and screws for their framing. It was good that some one else thought it was a good idea.

Tom

Posted by: rickf Aug 23 2010, 04:42 PM

QUOTE(tom @ Aug 4 2010, 07:08 PM)
Here's some pics that might help.

Tom
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Tom, Do you have any close ups of the wood frame? I have found that the area over the left bed rail of the truck is rotted badly. It is luann attached somehow to 2X2's. I can't tell how it is attached to the 2X2's plus the 2X2's are dry rotted. I am seeing no screws or nails, how is this held together? I need to replace the bare minimum while on the truck for a trip in a week, after that I can take it off and get better access. I was thinking of using 1/4 inch pressure treated plywood for those areas in the bed and covering with fiberglass. Ideas?

I also noticed the cieling over the top bunk is soft on one side. I think this was probably from a leak that looks like it was seal years ago in the roof. Same question, what holds this stuff on?

Rick

Posted by: tom Aug 23 2010, 10:29 PM

QUOTE(rickf @ Aug 23 2010, 05:42 PM)
Tom, Do you have any close ups of the wood frame? I have found that the area over the left bed rail of the truck is rotted badly. It is luann attached somehow to 2X2's. I can't tell how it is attached to the 2X2's plus the 2X2's are dry rotted. I am seeing no screws or nails, how is this held together? I need to replace the bare minimum while on the truck for a trip in a week, after that I can take it off and get better access. I was thinking of using 1/4 inch pressure treated plywood for those areas in the bed and covering with fiberglass. Ideas?

I also noticed the cieling over the top bunk is soft on one side. I think this was probably from a leak that looks like it was seal years ago in the roof. Same question, what holds this stuff on?

Rick
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Sorry, I do not have any close ups. My experience has been that the paneling is usually stapled with 1/4 inch staples. The almost disappear into the paneling. Some times glue is also used on the framing with the staple. The paneling can also be trapped. Being built from the inside out, the manufacture might have built the wall independent. Applying the paneling and then installing the cabinets over the paneling. Where the walls connect to each other, like the back to the side, the paneling will be trapped on the last wall to be installed.

If you can't see any fasteners my guess is the framing might be stapled together. They use a wide staple that spans the joint and connects the pieces together.

As far as leaks go, I have a bad attitude about them. I've been around RV's
since I was a kid, I have this theory that their built too leak. Any joint or hole through the skin has a high possibility of leaking. In almost all the leaks I've repaired it was because of the tape/caulk product the companies use fails or never sealed from day one. The old TC I used as a template was built in 2004. As rotted as it was, roof, walls, over the cab section and all four corners, it had to be leaking from day one. It just seems that there is not much attention to detail as for as making them water tight.

I don't know about that 1/4 inch PT plywood and fiber glass?

What kind of skin does your camper now?

Hope this helps, Tom

Posted by: rickf Aug 24 2010, 07:11 AM

QUOTE(tom @ Aug 23 2010, 10:29 PM)
Sorry, I do not have any close ups. My experience has been that the paneling is usually stapled with 1/4 inch staples. The almost disappear into the paneling. Some times glue is also used on the framing with the staple. The paneling can also be trapped. Being built from the inside out, the manufacture might have built the wall independent. Applying the paneling and then installing the cabinets over the paneling. Where the walls connect to each other, like the back to the side, the paneling will be trapped on the last wall to be installed.

If you can't see any fasteners my guess is the framing might be stapled together. They use a wide staple that spans the joint and connects the pieces together.

As far as leaks go, I have a bad attitude about them.  I've been around RV's
since I was a kid, I have this theory that their built too leak. Any joint or hole through the skin has a high possibility of leaking. In almost all the leaks I've repaired it was because of the tape/caulk product the companies use fails or never sealed from day one. The old TC I used as a template was built in 2004. As rotted as it was, roof, walls, over the cab section and all four corners, it had to be leaking from day one. It just seems that there is not much attention to detail as for as making them water tight.

I don't know about that 1/4 inch PT plywood and fiber glass?

What kind of skin does your camper now?

Hope this helps, Tom
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Camper has aluminum skin but where I was talking about glassing is the area that sits in the bed. That is Luann paneling covered with some kind of undercoating. I figured if I have to replace that then glassing it over would waterproof it a lot better than a spray on undercoating. I think for this trip I am just going to cover over what is there with a piece of 1/4 ply and through bolt it to the inner panel in the cabinets and put some glue on it also. That will get me by until I get it off in a couple of weeks and can tear out all of the old stuff. The problem is that I do not want to compromise the structure as I am removing stuff. If a lot of it is rotted then I am guessing the siding is doing most of the work right now. I need to get a concrete pad poured so I have a level surface to work from and use for reference.

Rick

Posted by: tom Aug 24 2010, 03:39 PM

QUOTE(rickf @ Aug 24 2010, 08:11 AM)
Camper has aluminum skin but where I was talking about glassing is the area that sits in the bed. That is Luann paneling covered with some kind of undercoating. I figured if I have to replace that then glassing it over would waterproof it a lot better than a spray on undercoating. I think for this trip I am just going to cover over what is there with a piece of 1/4 ply and through bolt it to the inner panel in the cabinets and put some glue on it also. That will get me by until I get it off in a couple of weeks and can tear out all of the old stuff. The problem is that I do not want to compromise the structure as I am removing stuff. If a lot of it is rotted then I am guessing the siding is doing most of the work right now. I need to get a concrete pad poured so I have a level surface to work from and use for reference.

Rick
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Rick,

Is the section that sets in the bed framed? Sometimes that bottom section is just 5/8 or 3/4 inch plywood clear up to and including the piece over the truck bed rail.

Tom

Posted by: rickf Aug 24 2010, 04:30 PM

QUOTE(tom @ Aug 24 2010, 03:39 PM)
Rick,

Is the section that sets in the bed framed? Sometimes that bottom section is just 5/8 or 3/4 inch plywood clear up to and including the piece over the truck bed rail.

Tom
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I can tell you that the section over bed rail is framed. That is the section that is rotted. I can push righ5t through the luann and feel 2X2 framing. Not much of it though and what I feel is real soft. That is about the outer 12 inches toward the outside. The inner part of the over rail section is still solid. Now that I think of it the bottom side is just plywood, the door from inside to the bed area is just that, A hinged piece of plywood. Is that good or bad? The front wall is pulling out from the floor a little on the passenger side also.

If you want to pm me a phone number I can call you with any specifics.

Rick

Posted by: tom Aug 24 2010, 06:49 PM

QUOTE(rickf @ Aug 24 2010, 05:30 PM)
I can tell you that the section over bed rail is framed. That is the section that is rotted. I can push righ5t through the luann and feel 2X2 framing. Not much of it though and what I feel is real soft. That is about the outer 12 inches toward the outside. The inner part of the over rail section is still solid. Now that I think of it the bottom side is just plywood, the door from inside to the bed area is just that, A hinged piece of plywood. Is that good or bad? The front wall is pulling out from the floor a little on the passenger side also.

If you want to pm me a phone number I can call you with any specifics.

Rick
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Rick,

Can you post some pics of what your looking at?

Tom.

Posted by: rickf Aug 24 2010, 07:07 PM

QUOTE(tom @ Aug 24 2010, 06:49 PM)
Rick,

Can you post some pics of what your looking at?

Tom.
*


I'll get some pictures tomorrow. I did some more crawling around and the the inner side is also framed. The thing that scares me is all I am seeing in the way of framing is 1X1 or smaller!!!

Posted by: rickf Sep 12 2010, 01:09 PM

QUOTE(tom @ Aug 24 2010, 06:49 PM)
Rick,

Can you post some pics of what your looking at?

Tom.
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Tom, I did not get a chance to get pictures due to the fact that I was leaving on a Thursday and I needed to seal that area on Wednesday! I did find the main cause and it is a little disconcerting. There is a patch on the roof directly above the rotted area. I felt the patch and there is NOTHING under it! It is just some rubberized fabric over a rotted hole. Now I know where the water was coming from and it has me thinking that since it came down through the wall then the entire wall is probably gone. What holds the metal skin on besides the strips at the top and sides? Do the metal sections come off separately or are they permanently attached to each other and have to come off as a whole side? What is the best way to support the camper while working on it? I am assuming you can't work on the floor since that is the weight bearing area.


Rick

Posted by: 82Wilderness Sep 12 2010, 10:17 PM

Rick, thought I would throw in some info from what I have learned taking my camper apart. On ours, there is 1/8" plywood between the frame and the outer metal skin. The frame on ours is aluminum. When we pulled off the siding, the original wood paneling was just scraps put here and there and didn't offer any support. We used full sheets as much as possible to help give more support to the frame. The exterior skin should be strips that connect together. On ours, the top piece was stapled to the frame and the gutter rail bolted on top. Then, the bottom of the top piece was stapled down. Then next piece gets inserted into the top piece, covering the bottom part that was stapled down. I'm not sure I am explaining this very well, but let me know if its confusing. I'm actually in the middle of putting new siding on our camper and I can send you some detail pictures. It is fairly tricky trying to pull the old stuff out. If the piece is fairly long, then you might want to get some extra help so that the piece doesn't get kinked or bent. As for supporting your camper, we used some bottle jacks and 4x4 posts with a hole drilled in the middle to support the sides when needed. Sorry for the long post, but hopefully this will help. Good luck.

PS - We ordered our new siding from interstatemetals.com. If you go to the online catalog and aluminum siding, they have some pictures of the different seams. Ours is the s-lock. The seam should be the bottom of piece and the next piece would slide into that fold. Also, Glen-L RV plans is a website that sells plans for building campers and trailers. They have a section of builder photos from various people. Some of those might show some of the frame work and how they supported the sides while building it.

-Matt

Posted by: tom Sep 13 2010, 07:03 AM

QUOTE(rickf @ Sep 12 2010, 02:09 PM)
Tom, I did not get a chance to get pictures due to the fact that I was leaving on a Thursday and I needed to seal that area on Wednesday! I did find the main cause and it is a little disconcerting. There is a patch on the roof directly above the rotted area. I felt the patch and there is NOTHING under it! It is just some rubberized fabric over a rotted hole. Now I know where the water was coming from and it has me thinking that since it came down through the wall then the entire wall is probably gone. What holds the metal skin on besides the strips at the top and sides? Do the metal sections come off separately or are they permanently attached to each other and have to come off as a whole side? What is the best way to support the camper while working on it? I am assuming you can't work on the floor since that is the weight bearing area.
Rick
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Rick,
Matt sums it up pretty good. Sounds like I had the same type of siding. Only difference was I removed it from wood framing. I made a long chisel out of a piece of flat stock steel. Started from the top, pulled back the siding just far enough to get the chisel down near where the staples are. A couple raps with a hammer and the staples shear off or tears out with out damaging the siding.
Hope this helps !
Tom,

Posted by: Camper_Newbie Aug 13 2014, 08:37 AM

QUOTE(tom @ Aug 4 2010, 07:08 PM)
Here's some pics that might help.

Tom
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Hi Tom,

I have a what seems to be a similar camper (make) to yours. Looks like same setup and ready to build my own aluminum frame. How did you go about doing this? Is this gonna take me forever to get done? appreciate any advice.

Thanks,

Newbie

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