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RV_Tech Posted on: May 10 2018, 05:23 PM





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QUOTE(810wswsj410 @ May 10 2018, 01:24 PM)
What type did you buy through carefree of Colorado?  I have looked but for truck campers they only seem to have the small ones directly over the door.  Iím looking for one that is nearly the full width of the camper and extends about 8 feet out the back.  Thanks in advance
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Here's your link to Carefree http://www.carefreeofcolorado.com/products/truckin-awn.html
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3110889 · Replies: 3 · Views: 32,835

RV_Tech Posted on: May 2 2018, 02:35 PM





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QUOTE(MikeMarkCA @ May 2 2018, 03:15 PM)
I was guessing that when you installed the new stat you accidentally ground a hot lead.

..and blew a fuse?
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That was my thought, but I was also remembering running into this problem before that is particular to furnaces with Coleman coolers and I think the problem ended up being at the furnace where it feeds power to the board, but that was years ago and I can't recall it anymore clearly. If you pull the cover on your furnace, is there a reset there. some furnaces have them, some don't. It is so much harder to do this online rather than in person.
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3110881 · Replies: 8 · Views: 39,281

RV_Tech Posted on: May 1 2018, 05:14 PM





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QUOTE(MikeMarkCA @ May 1 2018, 02:50 PM)
Thank you, I'll be back around Sunday, I have night work all week won't get to it until Sunday.  I did use a multi-meter on the fuses and verified continuity without pulling them, but I'll re-perform the test.  As far as you know, Lance runs all their fuses to one fuse block?
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Yes, I don't know anyone that uses a secondary fuse block. Lances, from the few I have worked on are all straight forward.

I was guessing that when you installed the new stat you accidentally ground a hot lead. I have done that more than one time and it is easy to do without noticing it.

On the Coleman stuff you can normally test the functions by jumpering the hot to the stat terminals other than the ground of course.
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3110877 · Replies: 8 · Views: 39,281

RV_Tech Posted on: Apr 30 2018, 10:06 PM





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QUOTE(MikeMarkCA @ Apr 30 2018, 10:11 PM)
I took this picture of the wiring off the original, bought the matching thermostat, and rewired exactly the same way, but as I said before I think the new thermostat had a faulty switch that ran the heat and air at the same time unless you giggled the switch.

 
user posted image
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Your wiring looks to be correct. Normally Coleman systems feed the hot lead (terminal #3) from the furnace.

First of all verify you do not have power at the stat. Terminal #1 is your ground so you don't need to run back to the battery. Terminal #3 jumpered to #4 is your hot.

Also be sure you are checking your fuses with a meter or test light. Do not just eyeball them. I did dozens of service calls and did nothing other than replace a fuse.

Also since you replaced your stat. Check to make sure you did not hit insulation on the wire when you tightened them to the stat.
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3110873 · Replies: 8 · Views: 39,281

RV_Tech Posted on: Apr 30 2018, 05:35 PM





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QUOTE(MikeMarkCA @ Apr 30 2018, 03:11 PM)
Good day.

  I have been struggling with a cheap thermostat.  I have a Lance 950, it has air and heat, the heater being an atwood with an atwood thermostat. The original went out, so I ordered a new one and put it in.  Right away I could tell the switch on the new unit was screwed up, at times the heat and air would run at the same time. I put in another one, and now that thermostat shows no power, and testing the wires I now seem to have no current coming to the thermostat wires,,
  I tested all the fuses under the step for continuity, and they seem to be ok.  Is there another fuse not on the main fuse block?
  I am frustrated to the point I think I'm going to take it in, is there a better quality thermostat that would work with the Atwood heater?  I'm fed up!
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Mike,

I am sure I can troubleshoot it, but I have to know the model or post a picture so I can pull up the wiring diagram. Do you have a Dometic cooler on the roof or a Coleman?
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3110865 · Replies: 8 · Views: 39,281

RV_Tech Posted on: Apr 9 2018, 12:55 AM





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QUOTE(KyJoe340 @ Apr 8 2018, 10:02 PM)
I have a 2017 F250 camper package 4X4 reg cab with a 2007 Lance 915. CAT scale loaded, wet, me, the wife and a full tank of gas 10,060.
GVWR 10.000. GAWR F/R  4,800  6,340.  18"  tires 3,640 each.

CAT scale F/R 4,180  5,880

So I'm good on GAWR and tires but GVWR is right on the money. I have reduced 150lbs from these #'s with lithium battery and a different mattress. Also if I'm going somewhere that has water I don't travel with 35gals I just put in about 10.

I have Timbren jounce bumpers and Torklift bump stops for my overload springs. The truck handles great.
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Hey, thanks for posting in. It looks like a reg cab helps a lot. My extended cab is at 4,440 before we put the camper on it. I also have the big Fab Four front and rear bumpers that make the truck look like it would win a fight with an 18 wheeler. I know that adds weight. If they were not already on the truck when I got it, I probably would not have them.

The Lance brochure shows a dry weight without options of 2,439 for the 915. Packing the way we do, we would definitely be over with that camper on our truck. Our Hallmark dry without options has a factory listed weight of 1,643.

Our CAT scale F/R is 4,740, 6080 with a GVWR of 11,000. (That's with 30 gallons of fresh water). For options we have an AC, electric jacks, and an oven. I also have a Yamaha 2,000 genset on the rear bumper, but that is only 45 pounds. I am putting on a swing-away bike rack right now and a set of 24" Brophy steps so I am going to reweigh before we head out this week and try to see where all our weight is coming from.

I am using Super Springs instead of Timbren and upgraded my shocks to Fox, which helped reduce porposing.
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3110825 · Replies: 15 · Views: 56,315

RV_Tech Posted on: Apr 7 2018, 08:41 PM





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I think most folks who claim to be within their ratings would be surprised if they took a trip to a CAT scale ready to run and I do not think manufacturers are naive to the situation. The harsh reality is there are almost no hard side campers that will not be overweight in a SRW truck even F350s like mine if equipped with routine options.

In my opinion, the efforts the manufacturers are making to expand into half-ton territory by alleging their models are within half-ton ratings are particularly disingenuous.

What this actually means for owners is for them to decide, but at some point we have to stop giving credence to weight claims that are not substantiated by CAT scale tickets. My position is if you do not have one, you do not know what your rig weighs, pure and simple.

I would further opine that TC manufacturers know that most owners are running over their truck's weight ratings, but will not address that issue head-on as they know it would result in a loss of sales.
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3110817 · Replies: 15 · Views: 56,315

RV_Tech Posted on: Apr 7 2018, 04:27 AM





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QUOTE(jensenbreck @ Apr 5 2018, 05:41 AM)
Hi,

Having towed a caravan in the UK for 25 years, I quite like the idea of doing do in the US next august for a couple of weeks around lake Michigan. I've done the RV and found it quite come training when going into towns. Does anyone know of any companies who hire vehicle/trailer combo's around Chicago or even just the tow vehicle so I could sort out the trailer myself?
Please help.

I didn't find the right solution from the Internet.

References:
https://www.tripadvisor.in/ShowTopic-g1-i12...Road_Trips.html
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Thanks
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Did you simply contact U-Haul in the Chicago area and see what they will allow you to tow with one of their rental vans for example. I know they allow towing with their larger trucks, but have never towed with their small rental vehicles.

I suspect that is a pricey way to go however. Have you considered renting a small motor home (can't recall what you call them i the UK) from an agency like Cruise America? There are many different agencies that do that.
  Forum: Towing and Trailering · Post Preview: #3110813 · Replies: 2 · Views: 307,675

RV_Tech Posted on: Apr 7 2018, 04:19 AM





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QUOTE(jensenbreck @ Apr 5 2018, 05:42 AM)
Hi,

If we take the battery off, we have no signal or position lights and letís not mention that the auxiliary brake system needs towed-vehicle electric power to run. Any ideas on how to supply electricity to the lights and brake system while isolating the ESC system? Is it a good idea to disconnect the ESC system? Your ideas and suggestions will be appreciated!
Please help.

I didn't find the right solution from the Internet.

References:
http://www.forestriverforums.com/forums/f1...ons-156228.html
Smart contract technology marketing

Thanks
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The starting point is whether the model you are considering is "towable" as not all models are and attempting to tow some can cause serious transmission damage. If it is towable, the other issues you list are solvable.
  Forum: Towing and Trailering · Post Preview: #3110811 · Replies: 1 · Views: 20,224

RV_Tech Posted on: Apr 6 2018, 01:48 AM





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Given that the truck manufacturers do everything they can to make their ratings appear as high as possible and the camper manufacturers do everything they can to make their ratings appear unrealistically low, I still betting 90% of SRW TC owners will find themselves overweight on the scales if they weigh "ready to roll".

I think a perfect example of this is the Wolf Creek line which is targeted at 3/4 tons, but says in the fine print in the brochure duallies are the recommended haulers. Yep, you can check it out for yourself.

When ti comes to matching truck and campers, it is all smoke and mirrors if you do not put it on a scale.
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3110809 · Replies: 15 · Views: 56,315

RV_Tech Posted on: Apr 4 2018, 09:54 AM





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Also started out with chain and simple turn-buckles. Worked perfectly fine.
  Forum: Market · Post Preview: #3110791 · Replies: 6 · Views: 35,638

RV_Tech Posted on: Apr 4 2018, 07:28 AM





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I am not sure any topic draws more heated debate than the old "gas versus diesel" which I think often boils down to intangibles more than the oft stated power differences, mileage, etc. Simply put, I think more folks buy diesel not based on need, but based on want.

Our last truck was a dually diesel. Great when it was towing or hauling, but less desirable the rest of the time which was most of it. Some folks don't mind walking a mile after finally finding a place to park, we do. Cost of maintenance versus gas, ouch. As a daily driver, sorry just not very agile at the bank or the local water hole.

So since we don't need the power and didn't feel a couple more miles per gallon made up for the difference in purchase prices, this time around we went F350 6.2 SRW gasser. Yes it eats more fuel and yes it downshifts more on the steep grades, but it is a much better fit for what we need a truck to do and I when I change the oil it is 7 quarts versus the 14 of oil.

In the end, you're writing the check, buy the truck you want!
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3110789 · Replies: 6 · Views: 34,924

RV_Tech Posted on: Apr 1 2018, 07:19 AM





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QUOTE(SidecarFlip @ Apr 1 2018, 07:47 AM)
Problem with that is simply...  You buy it, it's yours and I've never seen any dealer that will allow you to 'test drive' a TC.

Far as TC going on a 'diet'.  All I see is fantasy weight stickers.  Don'r see any industry wide weight reductions at all.  If anything, they are getting heavier, not lighter.

Sure you can modify suspensions and install rated for load tires but the under lying components remain the same and those components will eventually fail.

One thing that is never addressed is rim capacity.  Overloading can be visually corrected but if a rim fails because you have exceeded it's DOT wight rating can be a life threatening situation.

It's all about what you don't see that really counts.  You and I have both 'been there and did that' and is why we have what we have.

Experience is always the best teacher.
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My ending wasn't clear. I was just trying to make a point about what folks now are doing. They either know their weights and accept what the manufacturers say are the limits or they decide for themselves what goes on what by whatever means they choose. Lots of times I think they decided based on what they see others are doing. There's a lot of so-and-so does such-and-such and it works fine for them.

Rim capacity is in the specs sheets online.
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3110779 · Replies: 6 · Views: 33,312

RV_Tech Posted on: Mar 31 2018, 07:01 AM





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Here is the dilemma as I see it. It is relatively easy to determine whether or not a camper is likely to be over a truck's ratings. On the other hand, how satisfying a combination is, in my experience, is a highly individualized variable. And, with any given combination some folks will be quite content while others insist on any number of negative descriptors. Thus I am relatively comfortable commenting on weight ratings and stating what I would do or would not do.

What I have found however is there seems to be very little if any relationship between weight ratings and what the majority of TC owners consider in choosing truck and TC combination so it boils down to two choices. Either you go with the manufacturers' weight ratings or you decide on your own criteria, load the TC, and see if it suits you.
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3110769 · Replies: 6 · Views: 33,312

RV_Tech Posted on: Mar 30 2018, 05:52 PM





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I think you will be over your truck's weight ratings. Do folks do it? Sure all the time. Should you? That's your call. I wouldn't but that's me.

Here's a link discussing your combination I believe https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/forums/...-weight-276552/
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3110763 · Replies: 6 · Views: 33,312

RV_Tech Posted on: Mar 28 2018, 11:58 AM





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My guess is the lack of responses to this post pretty well speaks for itself.
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3110759 · Replies: 15 · Views: 56,315

RV_Tech Posted on: Mar 26 2018, 09:20 AM





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QUOTE(Frankcom @ Mar 25 2018, 01:12 PM)
Thanks for answering my question.

Today I spoke to a Dodge mechanic and got some interesting news.
He said he cannot put anything in writing than nobody wants to take an opinion on that.
(Truck manufacture and Camper manufacture)
He said that the most truck campers are engineered, that 33% of the camper weight sits on the front axle. Some are closer to 30% some to 36%.

The only way to figure that out:
You have to weigh the truck, the camper and then the combination.
Maybe someone has done that already I would like to get some numbers.
Thank you.
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The manufacturers post their COG measurements and some mark them on their camper. Unless that mechanic can source his statement of "alleged fact", my thought is he is simply offering an opinion.

I am not clear where you hope to go with this given you already have your own weights.
  Forum: Truck Camper Specs · Post Preview: #3110753 · Replies: 9 · Views: 42,829

RV_Tech Posted on: Mar 25 2018, 06:52 AM





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I'm not trying to trick anyone. Perusing the TC forums it struck me the overwhelming choice for haulers is a 3/4 ton truck, but when I read what folks had on them it struck me there could be no way they were not running overweight. So I am trying to figure out if most folks don't know if they are actually running overweight or if they just don't care. And I couldn't help but note the most often quoted weight figures were not from a CAT scale, but straight out of the manufacturer's brochures or specs sheets, none of which include even basic options.

That lead me to wondering which hard sides mated to SRW trucks keep owners under their numbers when owner and crew are onboard, along with Spot, Fluffy, and the assorted baggage. Even some of the pieces circulating the Web seem to forget the breathing component of the cargo, some of whom are well north of the 150 pound allotment quoted by the truck manufacturers.
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3110747 · Replies: 15 · Views: 56,315

RV_Tech Posted on: Mar 24 2018, 11:18 AM





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QUOTE(wintertree @ Mar 24 2018, 09:32 AM)
My Scenario just for information....My truck weight.. 8800LBS (truck only) From Fords data on this model
Hard wall TC... 3500LBS On sticker....=====12,300lbs total from data

Fully loaded with all our stuff...full fuel tank....full fresh water tank....two people and a dog  (done at a weigh scale)==========13,700lbs

DRW F-450....14,000 GVW

By the time I return after our travels....I am usually over weight  as I am carrying some extra stuff we collected along the way

Camper is large....but there is two models / classes above ours that are heavier

Truck is the largest / heaviest conventional truck you can buy....next jump would be a cab and chassis 550
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Thanks. The lack of response to my post could have many explanations. My own experience is, when asked, owners quote the printing specs and I wonder how many realize how hard it is to stay within the weight ratings on a SRW, even when going with a one ton. Time after time I read Internet discussions in which owners are making note of what the manufacturers publish as bare bones numbers. I read one post this morning in which an owner said his camper weighed 2,600 pounds wet, which actually is the published dry weight without options. A friend has that model and actual wet weight is north of 4,000. Quite a difference.

One manufacturer even has in print in their brochure they recommend a dually for a model many folks still refer to as a light weight TC and commonly put it on a 3/4 ton. I have never been able to ascertain if buyers don't know or know and do it anyway.
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3110735 · Replies: 15 · Views: 56,315

RV_Tech Posted on: Mar 23 2018, 10:10 AM





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Here's my question of the day. If you have a 3/4 ton and a hard side TC and (the "and" is really the important part) you have weighed you combination on a CAT scale when you are fully loaded and ready to roll, have you been within the GVWR posted on the sticker on your door jam.

Same question for 1 ton SRW truck owners.

Quoting from manufacturers' spec sheet for the weights of either does not count! mad.gif
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3110727 · Replies: 15 · Views: 56,315

RV_Tech Posted on: Mar 20 2018, 03:30 AM





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QUOTE(wintertree @ Mar 19 2018, 09:06 PM)
All this info is true enough.....and it all heads back to having the right truck....TC builders are not stupid....they do try (to a degree) to put heavier things forward....for example most TC's have the fridge forward ...just before the cab over area....usually the fresh tank (which is the only one that is consistently full or near full) is located forward....Other tankage tends to be back.....but we dump as often as possible....We have a dry bath at the rear....but it adds very little extra weight....most of our storage cabinets are in the kitchen or the cab over area....Of all the TC's Iv'e worked on... not many were that different..But....There is always a but.....the latest offerings from eagle cap or lance (the big multi slide units) put a ton of weight towards the rear....and their brochure shows their triple slide on a single wheeled truck....makes my head spin....

The right truck / camper combo is not a mystery....It all goes back to $$....the common thread is usually a truck someone already has....and the camper they wish they could carry..

There is nothing like dual wheels!  Especially when considering where a lot of the weight is on a TC...I have never put a good size TC on anything but duals(we are on our third camper)....No it does not go off road as well as a single wheels unit....But for most....the odd "goat trail" and many decent road miles is the norm...
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Agree. Nothing to add.
  Forum: Truck Camper Specs · Post Preview: #3110717 · Replies: 9 · Views: 42,829

RV_Tech Posted on: Mar 19 2018, 07:37 AM





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In my experience, what you found is not uncommon. Many TCs transfer very little weight to the front axle. Technically I am under my payload and GVWR, but if I fill my 30 gallon water tank, I am about 65 pounds over my rear axle rating. Not a big deal because I don't need to travel with a full tank and the overweight is very slight.

I have not found a simple way to change much in the way of weight distribution in a truck camper given the limited storage. As a pop-up owner I do not have closet or cabinets in the cabover other than clothes under the bed.

Predicting weight with truck campers is about as transparent as a bucket of mud. Personally I think the TC manufacturers need to do some work on COG placement and find ways to move it further forward.
  Forum: Truck Camper Specs · Post Preview: #3110711 · Replies: 9 · Views: 42,829

RV_Tech Posted on: Mar 16 2018, 09:03 PM





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You need a cat to balance the COG. smile.gif
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3110703 · Replies: 15 · Views: 43,387

RV_Tech Posted on: Mar 16 2018, 09:03 PM





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QUOTE(SidecarFlip @ Mar 16 2018, 09:57 PM)
Because at some point (not determined) it will impact components negatively.  Things like wheel bearings and brakes and driveline components fail sooner.

I'm like you though, I run a 1 ton srw with a pop up so I don't have a weight issue.  For years I hauled a Lance hard side around and put everything in it but the 'kitchen sink' and the truck is still chugging along but I will say I've replaced a lot of components before their time because of the weight I had in the box.

Believe me, there was no way I could lock my wheels up with the Lance in the bed. plus my fuel mileage suffered.  That is all gone now.  I drop maybe 1-2 mpg with the pop up, no sway in the wind and it stops, right now.  A much more 'in control feeling.

They aren't for everyone but for me (and obviously you), they work fine.

Being a retired machinery and steel hauler, I know all about running HEAVY, I mean real heavy and more than once I was in situations where my brakes were less than marginal and a high Cg load was tippy.  Been there and did all that, probably why I prefer the pop up.  For me and my wife (no cat), it's fine.
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  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3110701 · Replies: 15 · Views: 43,387

RV_Tech Posted on: Mar 16 2018, 11:40 AM





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QUOTE(SidecarFlip @ Mar 16 2018, 09:26 AM)
Only difference really between a '250' and a '350' is spring rates.  Running gear is essentially the same.  Been that way for years.  Now, if you jump up to say a 450 or 550, running gear changes..

Only 'advantage in a 350 is spring rates (and the badge on the fender..... biggrin.gif )
*



See, that's my point sort of. We tell people not to do this or that, but the real world consequence is almost nil. I believe if folks felt like there was a real world reason not to do something far fewer folks would do it.

Having a pop-up I stay within my ratings pretty easily, but I seriously doubt anything bad would happen if I did not. I suspect there are many others that feel the same way. So no enforcement, no component failure, no increase in accidents. Why not put a triple slide on a half-ton, if it would fit (not serious with the example, just making the point)?
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3110697 · Replies: 15 · Views: 43,387

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