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Nobody Posted on: Sep 11 2017, 12:00 PM





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I have a 2003 SunLite Eagle pop-up type camper on my 1999 F250 7.3L powerstroke turbo diesel, long bed truck. I have the Brophy 24" folding steps with the 'grit' inserts for surer footing. My camper had 3 treated 2x4s run longitudinally under the floor (may have been to add additional height for later model trucks tho the guy I bought from had a 2002 F150 that he carried the camper on. I acquired a 4' long 2X4 the with no knots, notched it to accept the ends of the treated 2X4s & the under frame of the camper. I attached it to the treated 2X4s and the under frame using 3 1/2" long by quarter inch diameter lag screws. I attached the step 'rail' with 2" by quarter inch lag screws. I store the steps inside the camper when 'on the road' since it doesn't have a retaining feature. I'm very pleased with the 24" Brophy steps tho I'd like the adjustment features of Sidecar Flip's Torklift steps. I also ordreed along with the steps an aluminum rail that fastens to the side of the steps at the bottom, & to the camper near the door. Don't have a pic of it installed but it is great to help older folks climb the steps into the camper. I expect that one of the 'swing away' rails permanently mounted to the camper might work as well?? I ordered the 4 step unit because that's the height I measured. It's a little high & I have to dig a trench for the bottom rail in order to level the steps. I probably could have done just as well with a 3-stepunit & leveled with some kind of support under the bottom rail.

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  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3109889 · Replies: 6 · Views: 15,639

Nobody Posted on: Aug 21 2017, 10:30 AM





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QUOTE(RV_Tech @ Aug 20 2017, 11:29 AM)
Man, I can't believe it, You too? I am working on my truck camper now doing some touch up paint and like you, periodically waiting for the dizziness to pass. Just remember anyone who tells you life is better when you are old never had a life when they were young (and you can quote me on that.

Steve smile.gif
*



Thanks Tech. Glad to know I'm not th only one. My Dad always said, "Anyone who talks about the 'good ole days' never lived through 'em." I've been plagued with dizziness & lightheadedness since March 2016, Docs (Primary Care Physician, 2 cardiologists, 2 Otolaryngologists [ENT], a gastroenterologist, & at least one internal medicine Spec), have been working overtime trying to figure out the cause of my problem. One of the ENTs (dizziness Spec) said that invariably when a person my age has normal balance tests (as I do) that the problem comes from Anxiety causes, & if I was his father or grandfather he'd see to it I was prescribed one of the anti-anxiety drugs, & that's what he was recommending to my PCP. Another of the ENTs had me on an epilepsy drug (for dizziness??) since January 2017. My PCP took me off the epilepsy med 'cold turkey, bad move! & put me on an anti anxiety drug but all it did was make me sicker. He said he didn't know if it was the drug or withdrawal from the epilepsy med?? but sent me to see the internal med spec to find out if it was withdrawal or the med causing my symptoms. The Internal Med Spec first started me on small doses of generic Zoloft but that made me too sleepy so he changed to tiny (2mg twice daily) of a generic valium. That also appeared to be too much so 10 days ago he switched it to 1mg 3 times daily. Doesn't make me as sleepy but don't think it's helping much either. I have apt with him this Thursday morning so we'll see what he says. Never been much on mind altering drugs so I don't know how they're supposed to affect me?? I just know I'm tired of feeling bad all the time, & not knowing when one of the dizzy episodes will 'hit'. Went to the VA in January (they gave me hearing aids) & saw a psychologist who made me think I'm doing it all to myself??. Think they finally discounted that. Had cataract surgery in both eyes in Jan & Feb 2016 & one of the cardiologists suggested this might have a visual trigger but I think he also discounted that after some thought. I'm thinking it again since I've been having trouble with my left eye since shortly after surgery, I just discovered last week that my eyes seem to try to focus at different distances which may well be confusing my brain (what little I have left). I have appt with the opthalmologist today to see if he can figure a solution, then appt with the cardiologist & a Nurse Practitioner to check my pacemaker power supply. Maybe between 'em they can figure out some relief for me. I'm able to ignore the dizziness most of the time if I have a specific task that must be done. I'm still able to drive my wife to her eye appts & go to the local Air Force Base every month or so for meds. I asked the Internal Med Spec about that & he said it's normal (whatever that means), that you should be able to do whatever has to be done regardless of the dizziness, but I ain't sure I believe that. I have trouble ignoring it when I'm on that ladder...
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3109773 · Replies: 15 · Views: 28,468

Nobody Posted on: Aug 20 2017, 10:02 AM





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Been interesting watching this conversation progress. I lowered the roof on my SunLite before I took the camper off to install the Happijac tiedowns. Always keep the truck parked on a level spot in the bacvkyard & if it ain't level enough for the fridge to operate I put a block under a tire to level it up. When it's off the truck I level it with the lifting jacks. With the roof closed there's no sign of any alighment wedges but they may be inside?? Don't think there's any there tho. Only thing I can see (other than the rubber(?) seal is the ground wires for the clearance lights (I'm gonna hafta re-do those since aout half of my clearance lights don't work. I have some LED bulbs to replace the incandescent bulbs but haven't gotten around to running the new ground contact. All the clearance lights are in a 'daisy chain' around the aluminum rim of the roof assembly. Should be a simple matter to make sure they're all making good contact (unless my vertigo kicks in & I fall off the ladder). I usually secure myself a good seat on the step ladder & if I experience an episode of vertigo I just hang on 'til it's gone. I've decided that this 'gettin' old stuff ain't for sissies, but mostly I just count myself lucky that I'm still able to do what I like at my age! I have friends & associates who've just about given up but I refuse to do that. I think ya start dyin' when ya quit livin'! & some folks even before then. Oh yeah, we've had a couple of pretty heavy rains since I took the camper off & lowered the roof. Guess I must've gotten it right this time. No evidence of water penetration at all.
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3109749 · Replies: 15 · Views: 28,468

Nobody Posted on: Aug 15 2017, 07:56 PM





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Hi Guys. I have on my '99 F250 a 3003 SunLite 8.5' pop-up type camper. My camper has a toilet but no shower or water heater. I do have a cold water outside shower but my days of using one of those are long past.

I have become somewhat enamored of the Palomino 'Backpack' pop up campers & the only fault I can find with the way they're built is none of 'em have a screen door. Where I live in the south, a screen is definitely needed when enjoying the evenings. My 'cheapie' SunLite has a factory screen door so why shouldn't something that costs a much as the Palomino. Neither does the Starcraft pop-up truck campers as far as I can tell.

I've searched the internet as best I'm able & have not been able to find a source for a Palomino screen door. The Palomino full sized solid wall campers do have screen doors as far as I've been able to determine.

Any Palomino pop-up truck camper owners here who've confronted this problem (if it is indeed a problem). I've no idea what size the Palominos would require, A man could probably have one custom built but it may not be worth the cost. The screen door on my SunLite is 22"X51 1/4" & has the top frame radiussed some 2-3" or so, Maybe as much as 4"??

Any ideas?
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3109699 · Replies: 1 · Views: 8,318

Nobody Posted on: Aug 15 2017, 07:16 PM





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Thanks Flip. You've given me some ideas for making sure my top is sealed when I lower the roof. The 'tool' I devised when I first bought the Skamper is just a 4' long piece of 1" Schedule 40 PVC with a 'T' at one end & 'caps' on the 'raw' ends. Didn't even put adhesive on the joint as it's pretty tight 'dry fitted.' I usually stop when the roof assembly is between 6 & 12" & tuck in all the loose canvas/vinyl. I may get a little closer from now on. As long as none of the sidewall 'fabric' is across the seal it can't leak. I'll just make doubly sure it don't cross the seal from now on. The new all thread lift system works great using my 18V DeWalt drill. Ya just gotta be sure you have a freshly charged battery, or at least the generator & charger. My camper required approx 2" for the Brophy Scissors steps I ordered from etrailer. Some previous owner had installed 'treated' 2x4s lengthwise under the bottom so I just took a piece of treated yellow pine, & fastened it to the lengthwise 2x4s using1/4" x 3 1/2" lag screws then added the steps 'hanger bar' & since my steps don't remain in place for travel I just fold 'em up & slip 'em inside the back door. I also bought a hand rail to attach to the side of the steps & to the camper. My wife is much more comfortable using the steps with the rail than without. Truth be told, so am I wink.gif .
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3109697 · Replies: 15 · Views: 28,468

Nobody Posted on: Aug 10 2017, 12:34 PM





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I think you may be right Flip. The last time I lowered the roof, it looked as if it was going to rain & I was in a hurry. I probably left a tiny portion of the canvas 'over' th seal instead of on the inside as it should be. Years ago I devised a PVC 'tool' to use for 'tucking' in the canvas & if you don't use it 'just right' it'll leave a small corner in the wrong place. My brother-in-law from whom I bought my first 'Skamper' pop-up, used a broom to 'tuck in' the canvas. My PVC tool does a better job but you hafta handle it right. Also, I've noticed the overhead cabinets on either side that 'hang' from the roof can interfere with the windows & the fabric if not 'tucked' in just right. Next time I lower the roof assembly I'll make sure everything is in its correct place... I always lower the roof about half way down & tuck everything in & lower it the rest of the way. Has never failed me 'til now & I'll know better in the future. I'd thought maybe the 'all thread' assembly had let something 'slip' but after careful examination I've discounted that theory. It is a marvel of engineering & works beautifully.
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3109687 · Replies: 15 · Views: 28,468

Nobody Posted on: Aug 7 2017, 03:59 PM





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Hi All. I recently had a problem with a 'leak' in my truck camper. It is a 2003 8.5' SunLite Eagle WT SP pop-up type. It has a toilet & small holding tank but no internal shower or water heater (has a cold water outside shower). Recently while sitting on the truck in closed position (top down) we had some very heavy rain. I checked the camper one day while in there & discovered a puddle of water on top of the left rear cabinet/closet, between the sink & the cooktop, & between the refrigerator & the lift mechanism, all on left side of the camper. No apparent damage to the formica cabinet tops. As soon as the weather cleared I raised to top to see if I could find where the leak was located. I couldn't find any leak but there was water all along the fiberglass screen, the transparent vinyl window, and one of the hollow galvanized lifting rods which are part of the 'rack & pinion' lift mechanism. I cannot find any leak anywhere in or on the roof including the roof vent & in or around the AC. When I raised the roof water ran all along the screen & the vinyl window, and along the galvanized lift rod. It appeared the water had gotten under the roof & had leaked through the zipper which closes the vinyl window. The roof appeared to be closed tightly and apparently had a waterproof seal. The roof unit has a 'suspended' cabinet on each side of the camper that 'hangs' down when the roof is in the up/down position. Only thing I can figure is that I didn't make sure the seal at the bottom of the roof 'lined up' correctly & the last time I lowered the roof & 'tucked' in the vinyl & the canvas that comprise the upper part of the wall. Perhaps I allowed a bit of the canvas or vinyl to intrude between the seal & the upper wall of the camper. I've used pop-up type campers for many years & never had this happen before. Next time I'll make sure the seal is making good contact all the way around. Anyone here with one of these type campers ever had an experience such as this? Any & all suggestions appreciated and will be applied, as this is a new one on me... The previous owner (& a friend) had modified the 'rack & pinion' lift system when they added the AC (the lift system had stripped the aluminum 'racks' & they replaced it with 3/4" 'square top all thread', threaded shackles & an outside access to the 'all thread', which is on the right side of the camper just in front of the dinette window. It is a very professional installation, just slow when turning the all thread without a cordless drill. The mechanical Reico-Titan corner jacks are also slow operating without the drill. Perhaps I did not insure that the drill 'pulled' to roof down securely?
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3109681 · Replies: 15 · Views: 28,468

Nobody Posted on: Aug 2 2017, 11:48 AM





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I've owned truck campers since the mid 1960s from basic 8' box slide ins to the largest side entry camper you could buy in the mid/late 1980s. I owned a 1985 F250 single cab with the 6.9L IDI diesel engine, a C-6 auto tranny & 3:55 gear ratio rear end. We made the Alaska Hiway trip in that rig, towing a small 4WD Toyota P/U. I'd added Air Lift air bags to the rear suspension, & Cabover 'struts' for stability, & at something over 3K lbs traveling weight I was somewhat overloaded but not excessively so. I retired from the USAF in 1977 & from my 'retirement' job in 1992. We made the Alaska trip in Jun-Sep 1993 & thoroughly enjoyed every minute of it. If I were a little younger & in better health we'd do it again, this time with the truck & camper only. The little Toyota came in really handy when we drove the Pipeline Haul Road but other than that we didn't use it much. I think we'd have done just as well using the truck/camper only even with the 'oversize camper.

I've never owned a truck camper with a 'basement' & don't know if I'd like that much height, especially with the raised COG. I've never felt uncomfortable with sway of a large cabover camper (except taking the Real-Lite home before I got the air bags & cabover struts installed. On the Alaska trip we averaged between 12-14mpg. I think for the entire trip including towing the Toyota. I currently own a '99 F250, SuperCab, Super Duty, long bed, with a 7.3L turbo diesel that carries a 2003 8.5" Sun-Lite pop-up type truck camper. My camper has a toilet but no water heater or indoor shower, tho it does have an outside cold water shower. I'm gettin' too old to use that much except for rinsing dishes. We've owned close to a dozen truck campers including 4 Pop-ups, & hauled 'em with everything from a '63 GMC V-6 to the current 7.3L turbo diesel. Have not had any experience with the GM DuraMax or the older Detroit diesels, nor the Dodge Cummins, but I've heard nothing but good things about 'em, especially the GM with the Allison trans. I'm somewhat enamored with the Northstar, Northland, & other '4-season' campers. If I were equipping a rig for year round travel I think I'd look seriously at a GM 3500 (maybe dual rear wheels & 4WD) & a Northstar solid wall camper. If I were thinking of a pop-up type camper I'd consider either a Northstar, an Outfitter, or a Hallmark. Most of them can be equipped to suit & all have a good reputation for longevity. Having used truck campers for over 50yrs that's my take on current offerings. I think the current offerings of both truck & campers are too large & too heavy for getting much off the 'beaten path.,' but then again I ain't as adventurous as I was once...
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3109667 · Replies: 15 · Views: 31,096

Nobody Posted on: Jul 27 2017, 09:43 AM





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There was a time, a few (weeell, actually more'n a few) years ago when I was in pretty good physical health, that I actually enjoyed taking a thoroughly deteriorated camper & putting it back into new or better than new condition. I had a fairly well equipped shop & was able to rebuild truck campers to their original 'glory'. Never took any pix & usually had 'em sold before I finished the restoration. Health problems prevents such activity anymore. Matter of fact it's hard to develop a lot of interest in just about any project nowadays. We have a 2001 17' Casita Spirit Delux molded fiberglass travel trailer, a '95 Starcraft 'Pop-up' Meteorite 817 camper trailer, a '99 F250 Supercab Super Duty truck w/7.3 Turbo Diesel that carries a 2003 Sun-Lite Eagle pop-up type truck camper. & of course the teardrop trailer that I built in 2006. None of them have moved out of the backyard for over a year due to health problems. We used to make at least a half dozen trips each year but it's hard to get started anymore. We talk about places we'd like to visit again, & new places we ain't seen but can't seem to work up the necessary ambition. We'd planned to be on BLM land in or near Sand Draw, WY for the solar eclipse next month but that too has fallen by the wayside. Guess we'll observe the partial eclipse from our patio here at home.
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3109615 · Replies: 16 · Views: 31,556

Nobody Posted on: Jul 23 2017, 05:25 PM





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QUOTE(SidecarFlip @ Jul 22 2017, 03:46 PM)
That cabin over bunk is way too close to the cab roof.
*



Flip, I assume, yeah, (I know what that makes u & me tongue.gif ), that your reply was in response to DWJoyce's post. If that is the case, I agree completely. It appears that the bottom of the 'cabover' portion has 'sagged' considerably. You can see the original bottom line at the front of the cabover portion at the front. That will need to be rebuilt/corrected before (or at the same time) as the floor & any other part of the camper that needs rebuilding. Several years ago I 'rebuilt' an 8' Huntsman truck camper (built in Broken Arrow, OK) that had a rotten cabover section. Had to peel the aluminum skin & lay it back over the top. Install a new bedboard, & rebuild the entire side framework before installing new paneling, insullation, & reinstalling the skin. Also had to construct a new roof fridge vent in/on a 9 1/2' Sunways camper by Venture Via. I actually think that was a harder job than rebuilding the cabover of the Huntsman. It involved cutting & fitting new western red cedar framwork to hold a new vent cover. Didn't think my hands were going to fit in that small space.
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3109581 · Replies: 16 · Views: 31,556

Nobody Posted on: Jul 23 2017, 04:42 PM





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Don't think I', gonna be of much help to you identifying your vintage camper. The very short cabover section should be a clue if you can solve it. Perhaps an 'elite' of some kind (sorry, have no idea of the parent company, perhaps Black Hawk??) I think I remember in the not too distant past seeing an older camper near identical to yours, only maybe with a single dinette window instead of a double? I think you have a vintage truck camper, the furnace exhaust was obsolete several years ago, & the jalousy type window in the door hasn't been seen for a while. I have a set of 3 camper jacks nearly like those that came off my B-I-L's old truck camper & it was build in the 1960s. I think that the camper I saw was on an older Jeep Pioneer truck??
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3109579 · Replies: 16 · Views: 31,556

Nobody Posted on: Jul 1 2017, 06:47 PM





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I think I'd follow SidecarFlip's advice & strap it down with a ratchet strap at least until I got a new eye bolt tie down operational. Leaving the front unsecured is just asking for trouble. No matter how slowly or safely you drive, wind & weather can surprise you. We're experiencing a somewhat violent Thunderstorm here in central Arkansas at the moment. Sure glad my truck & pop-up camper are parked in my backyard now & not 'on the road' even with 4 intact eyebolts holding it down along witha set of Camper Clamper tie downs by Blackstone Mfg Co of Chicago. Depending on only a rear set of eyebolts is just asking for trouble!
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3109435 · Replies: 19 · Views: 34,347

Nobody Posted on: Jun 6 2017, 07:45 PM





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I hafta agree with SidecarFlip. No half ton Chevy (or any other half ton truck) is made to carry a modern solid wall camper. I personally don't know of any solid wall campers built in the past few years that weigh less'n 2K or thereabouts (& I believe the Amerigo is heavier than that), & that, is too heavy for a half ton truck. The GVW may say you can carry it but the spindles, transmission, & other 'running gear' are simply not made to haul that kind of load. You'll put excess wear on the components of your truck that it ain't made to accommodate. In the mid 1960s/early 1970s I hauled an 8' Fields cabover truck camper on a '63 GMC half ton, long bed with V-6 & auto transmission. Think my camper weighed around 800 to 1K lbs. Wife & I & 2 young sons 'toured' the western USA in that rig. No one in those days had even heard of 'frame mounted tie downs' so I used modified 'stake pocket' tie downs & hardware store turnbuckles. Would I use the same rig today? Probably not but at that time it was common usage & worked well for us for several years. We thoroughly enjoyed that truck & camper, & saw/visited places we would never have seen otherwise... Our sons grew up traveling & camping. They're safe, sensible men & would probably 'marvel' at how 'timid' I've become in my 70s.
  Forum: Truck Camper Specs · Post Preview: #3109333 · Replies: 3 · Views: 72,378

Nobody Posted on: May 30 2017, 10:53 AM





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QUOTE(SidecarFlip @ May 28 2017, 05:57 PM)
My shore power cord is plenty long enough if I ever had to plug into a pedestal, which I never have had to in 25 years.
*



I too have a 30amp cord that I consider 'long enough' to reach most campground power pedestals. I do remember that on one occasion we were at Daniel Boone SP in Kentucky & didn't have enough cord to reach the pedestal (or hose to reach the water faucet, bought extra hose at the C/G store). We used a spare 12ga cord that I carry plus the 15-20/30amp adaptor. Fortunately we didn't require the air conditioner & the 12ga cord worked fine for the fridge & lights for the camper. This happened years ago when we had a large, solid wall camper, LEDs were unheard of then so we just had regular incandescent bulbs. Dunno what would have happened if we'd needed the AC?? I now carry an extra 25', 30amp cord just in case. If I can't reach the pedestal with 50' of cord, I'll find another place to camp... As hooter56 says, "better to have it & not need it than need it & not have it."
  Forum: Support Equipment · Post Preview: #3109285 · Replies: 10 · Views: 79,693

Nobody Posted on: May 12 2017, 08:41 PM





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On the immersion type sensors (which is probably what you have on your camper. given its year of construction) many times the sensors can become wrapped with wet toilet paper, or a feces build-up on the screw type probes. The only way I know of to alleviate such a situation is turn off the pump or disconnect the city water connection. The toilet should sit directly on top of the black water tank. Open the toilet valve & look directly down into the tank (a powerful flashlight may be necessary). In some tanks you may be able to see the immersion probes & any build-up that may be causing your false reading. Most RV dealers sell a device (usually a plastic wand) that screws directly onto a water hose & sprays water to the side (90 degree angle) directly on the probes. Examining the bottom/sides, outside, of the black water tank should help you locate the probes, then you can place the device in the correct position to flush any build-up off the probes (Otherwise you may have to rotate the device several times to get the water spray in the correct position to clear the probes). You should then be able to get a correct reading on your monitor. I've had to spray a strong stream directly on the probes to 'clear' 'em a time or two... The flushing operation may have to be done several times to clear the probes.
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3109205 · Replies: 11 · Views: 19,944

Nobody Posted on: May 5 2017, 12:39 PM





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Yeah, that's some pretty bad rot. I think I'd clean it up as well as I could, then locate an area of the horizontal stud that is still sound & use a piece of angle, maybe as thick as 12/14 gauge, & run it the length of the rotted are (in conjunction with the Git Rot, CPES, or whatever you're using), & use new eye bolt bolted to the angle. The more you can spread out the load on the tie down eyes, the better off you'll be. I may have missed it in another pic but I can't tell where your stud is 'broken' along its horizontal axis. That will also make a difference on whether you need new stud material or can 'make do' with the existing stud.

I've 're-built' a couple of truck campers with considerable rot but mostly it was in the cabover bed area. I just loosened the aluminum skin & folded it back over the top, be-built the cabover framework & replaced all needed supports before putting the skin back in place. Had to replace the fridge 'vent stack' on one & that was a real job piecing in the cedar 2x2s that formed the original 'stack'. Had to do a lot of notching & angled cuts, then glue & screw the pieces together. Fortunately western red cedar & spruce machines well while still remaining strong...

Good luck on making that stable enough to hold the tie down eye securely.
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3109129 · Replies: 9 · Views: 17,994

Nobody Posted on: Apr 29 2017, 02:44 PM





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Sounds like your thermocouple may not be working correctly (it opens the gas supply to the pilot & the burner) [it is the lower connection, approx 1/8" diameter tube, usually copper or aluminum, on the right in your pix] fastened at each end with a (usually) 7/16 or 1/2" mut to the burner housing & the gas valve. They're inexpensive & easily replaced, just take it to your local gas supplier, hardware or RV dealer (RV dealer will probably be most expensive) & get a replacement as close in length (tho it doesn't matter a lot if the new one is longer), re-install & give it a try. If it don't work, you've probably got a bad gas valve but since you got a nice blue flame & strong sound your valve is probably working. You may have a bad gas supply (regulator, tank, lines) but if your other gas appliances are working OK it's probably OK too.

Your top pic is definitely too 'orange' but the second looks like a nice, blue flame. Did it make a strong whistling/roaring sound while burning. If so, sounds like it's doing what it is supposed to 'til fuel ran out for one reason or another. I'd check thermocouple first, mainly because it's easy & the most likely culprit.
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3109099 · Replies: 58 · Views: 89,550

Nobody Posted on: Mar 26 2017, 08:40 PM





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We have been camping for near 50years, in one kind of RV or another. Mostly in cabover truck campers, some with ice boxes, most with fridges. First few fridges we had were 2-way (120VAC-Propane) & they always worked well. Last few fridges have been 3-way (120VAC-12VDC, & Propane). All of them were run on 12VDC while driving my diesel pickups (2 vehicle batteries & heavy duty alternator, as well as dual Group 29 or 31 'house' batteries). I was also careful to wire the charging circuits from the vehicle alternator with 6 or 8 gauge wire, hence little line loss from the alternator. We drove the Alaska hiway in 1993 hauling what was then one of the biggest truck campers, an 11.5' Real Lite with side entry & most all amenities including dry bath with shower (No slides). We towed my little Totyota 4X4 P/U, were gone almost 3mos & enjoyed the trip immensely. Had no problems and the fridge 'ran' on 12VDC most every day while driving & we switched to propane at night or when we 'set-up' camp for several days. I caught Salmon in the rivers in Alaska & we cleaned & 'steaked' those we didn't eat & brought them back for family & friends. The fridge/freezer worked well on propane & we never worried about losing any food stored in either. Personally I wouldn't have anything but a 2 or 3-way fridge in my rig; YMMV...
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3108815 · Replies: 11 · Views: 20,806

Nobody Posted on: Mar 19 2017, 10:36 AM





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I dunno anymore but in June 2007 we camped on BLM land near Sand Draw, WY for more'n a week. No amenities whatever 'cept the open land. We'd been on a forum & a member had decided to 'host' a small gathering of like-minded rifle afficionados near his 'old home place' at Sand Draw. We drove all the way from central Arkansas towing our little teardrop trailer that I'd build in 2006. The pic shows our camp set-up including the 'pop-up' hunting blind that we used for my wife's porta potti. We spent a week there with friends, prowling the area, shooting targets, exploring the old Bell Coal mine near our campsite, & a couple of miner community remnants. Nearest town was Riverton, WY, approx 20 miles away. We visited there for ice, supplies, & water if needed... Beautiful area but sorta desolate & definitely remote. Windy too.

user posted image

Powder Magazine at the old Bell Coal Mine (Circa early 20th Century)
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All that's left of the coal 'dump' for the rail cars at the old Bell Coal Mine
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  Forum: Boon Docking · Post Preview: #3108759 · Replies: 4 · Views: 81,272

Nobody Posted on: Mar 16 2017, 08:22 PM





Group: Members
Posts: 124
Joined: 5-November 12
Member No.: 6,339


QUOTE(Spanky @ Mar 16 2017, 06:41 PM)
Yea it happens from time to time, this aint nothin, when I first got ahold of this forum it was a mess, dont know who you could have reported it to but I got no messages about it. I drive a truck over tha road and am gone Sunday tru Wed and then reload and back on Thur night so sometimes it takes me a day or so to clear it up. Right now all seems to be good. Except Im tired and need to go camping. Not sure either why they pick on us but I can fix it with the "hunt and peck" system.
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Spanky, I've tried numerous times to report such spam but when I click on the 'Report' button I get a dialogue box on the next page that says something that doesn't really make sense. Appears when the site is 'hacked' with those spam messages they also disable the report function somehow or other... If it happens again I'll see if I can get a copy of the dialogue box message & PM it to you.
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3108743 · Replies: 7 · Views: 18,005

Nobody Posted on: Mar 15 2017, 10:10 AM





Group: Members
Posts: 124
Joined: 5-November 12
Member No.: 6,339


I think they're probably European 'hackers'. The site has experienced this kind of thing before. Usually 'Spanky' has it all cleaned up in a day or so... Dunno why they seem to pick this site. Must be easy to hack?
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3108719 · Replies: 7 · Views: 18,005

Nobody Posted on: Feb 28 2017, 08:36 PM





Group: Members
Posts: 124
Joined: 5-November 12
Member No.: 6,339


QUOTE(SidecarFlip @ Feb 28 2017, 07:35 PM)
Nobody...  How well did the old style 3 jack systems work?  They look to be a bit unstable to me....

Never experienced a set.  My lance had 4 just like the Palomino has.
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I was always kinda leery of them too. My '86 Skamper had 4 of the 'swing-up' type jacks & I was much more comfortable with them. I like the 4 corner crank jacks on the Sun Lite I have now much better...

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  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3108513 · Replies: 17 · Views: 28,174

Nobody Posted on: Feb 28 2017, 07:28 PM





Group: Members
Posts: 124
Joined: 5-November 12
Member No.: 6,339


I thought there was supposed to be a feature on this forum which allows a member to post a pic directly in a post from one's computer but it has never worked for me (I'm a member of several other sites that do allow me to do that??). I do have a photobucket account with several hundred pix & have no trouble posting pix here from my photobucket account? Here's one of my old '85 F250 diesel and the '95 Sun Lite Eagle camper that I wrecked the Saturday after T'giving 2015 (PhotoBucket) mad.gif then a pic of my current rig hosted on TinyPic.com. PhotoBucket is much more user friendly than TinyPic...

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user posted image
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3108507 · Replies: 17 · Views: 28,174

Nobody Posted on: Feb 26 2017, 04:59 PM





Group: Members
Posts: 124
Joined: 5-November 12
Member No.: 6,339


QUOTE(JonnyADv @ Feb 25 2017, 05:41 PM)
talked to one of the guys there he said they didn't have anything but i could pick his brain with any questions.  I plan on getting a list together and then making that all one phone call but would still like to have the operator manual if there is one out there i was hoping that someone on here might have one.  any suggestions of other forums to post these questions.
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I'd still frequent all the truck camper forums I could locate. Chances are someone has a manual for your model camper. Just a matter of locating it. I lived in Oklahoma for several years (Tulsa & Oklahoma City area). We went to Allen (from Tulsa) to look at the Idle Time campers in the 1970s. They were nice campers but we settled on a basic 8 footer built in Tulsa (Fields camper) for our half ton GMC. Put a lot of miles on that truck & camper. I'll keep my eye out for a manual for you.
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3108441 · Replies: 7 · Views: 17,358

Nobody Posted on: Feb 25 2017, 12:04 PM





Group: Members
Posts: 124
Joined: 5-November 12
Member No.: 6,339


QUOTE(RV_Tech @ Feb 24 2017, 07:50 PM)
I just got a 6.2 F350 SRW to run against my 7.3 dually towing the same fiver and using the same hitch set-up to see which I like better (both long beds). Lots of folks say the 6.2 will pull as well as a 7.3, and I want to find out for myself. Driving the 6.2 is, for me, heads and tails more pleasurable than the 7.3 and the six speed tranny is a thing of beauty.

Just my opinion,

Steve
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I've absolutely NO experience with the later model diesel engines so I can't speak authoritatively of their differences. &, the 6 speed transmissions are a total mystery to me. Stands to reason tho that an engine with a full cubic inch less displacement 'gives up' something along the line, whether it be longevity, or other capacity. The 6.2 is what Ford has selected as their basic, diesel engine for their light trucks. I have no doubt it has performed well in their tests but they thought the same about the 6.4 & 6.7 a few years ago. I'd expect that differential gearing & transmission makes a lot of difference & may well make a difference in user satisfaction. When I added the Banks Power Pak to my '85 6.9L IDI, non-aspirated engine in 1992, the only way I could tell it was effective was slightly better fuel economy (maybe a mile per gallon, if that much), & it didn't produce as much exhaust smoke as previously in higher elevations. Too, the pyrometer showed lesser exhaust temperature on heavy pulls.

I also owned a 1982 Ford, short bed standard cab, F150 4X4, with a 300CID 6cyl, 5-spd manual transmission that I towed an 18' travel trailer (probably 3500-4K# wt max'xd out). It did an admirable job for several years but I quickly learned that if I had to stop on a steep grade (facing uphill) I needed to shift to 4wd-Lo, or use the 'granny' 1st tranny gear' to get started again. Cubic inches again made all the difference...
  Forum: Towing and Trailering · Post Preview: #3108399 · Replies: 10 · Views: 72,939

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