Outline · [ Standard ] · Linear+ Looking for AF 996 owners feedback, Specking out truck to haul one

[CAJW]

Anyone who has a Artic Fox 996, please chime in as to what rig you're hauling it with and suspension mods done. I plan on a 3500 Diesel 4X4 LWB CC DRW to haul a AF996, but want the option of hauling a 2500 lb trailer with about a 250 lb tongue weight. Once I get a truck picked out, I'll complete the GM Truck-Camper Loading chart to confirm the numbers, but am fairly confident that this has been done successfully before. I've considered the better payload capacity of a gas rig, but drive a diesel for work and really don't want to give up that torque! I know I'll be looking for at minimum a rear sway bar, possibly upgraded shocks and maybe air bags. A weight distributing hitch will most likely be needed as well. Just wanting to hear from folks who have a similar set up and what success/failures they've had along the way.
Thanks in advance for any posted info.

[Sailor Dave]

While I'm not an expert on suspension mods (I only use stable loads) I am very confident is saying that with a CC, diesel, 996 and trailer your going to be over your GVWR and might even exceed your GCWR.

That said, I'm sure there are many people here that can offer advice on suspention upgrades. However it should be pointed out that the GVWR stamped onto the truck cannot be increased.

[CAJW]

Sailor Dave, looks like you might be right about the trailer towing issue. With a GCWR of 24,500, I'm ok on that figure, but appears that I'd exceed the GVWR with the 250 lb. tongue weight. We test drove a 2013 Chevy 3500 LWB CC 4x4 diesel dually today and took it to the scales. Actual numbers with me and DW w/ 1/8 tank of fuel - Front axle 4800, Rear axle 3340, total 8140 lbs. I added 219lbs. for the missing fuel and came up with an unloaded rear axle wt. of 3559lb. and a total unloaded vehicle weight of 8359 lbs.. I added the 219lbs. to the rear axle, but it might be more accurate to apply some of that wt. to the front axle, but without spending a C note to fill up a dealers truck, I'm working with that assumption. When I subtract the 8140 from the total GVWR of 9375 I come up with a payload of 4666 lbs. (Door jamb sticker shows 4927 lbs. for payload). In "guesstimating" the weight of a loaded AF 996, I've used an actual data wt. sticker weight of 4080 (wet) plus an addl. 500 lbs. of personal "stuff", which brings the total camper weight of 4580 lbs. With the figured available payload of 4666 that leaves me a cushion of only 86 lbs under GVWR! Hardly the amount needed if I want to pull a 2500 lb. trailer with a tongue weight of approx. 250 lbs. What am I missing here?

[Sailor Dave]

Its so easy to under estimate the weight of these AF truck campers. I went to great lengths to obtain the correct information and my estimate turned out to be within 1% of the actual dry weight. Here is the rundown:

The estimated dry weight came from the brochure as well as from calls to the factory. The actual dry weight (no batteries, water or propane) was done at a CAT scale by the dealer, American RV. They were nice enough to weigh the unit for me before I pick it up on May 1st. They sent me copies of the CAT weigh slips for both the truck used to weigh the camper as well as the truck with the camper loaded.

My estimated weight:

Base weight of 1150: 3358
Fox Value Package: 595
DVD/CD/AM/FM: ?
LCD TV w/bracket: 20
2 solar panels: 64
11K BTU AC: 90
Fox Landing: 27
Thermopane windows: 43
TOTAL: 4197

Actual dry weight: 4240


I'm figuring to add 270 pounds for batteries, propane and 11 gallons of water (5 black & 6 water heater while traveling), 335 pounds for 2 passengers and 725 pounds for gear, which included the truck bed liner, tiedowns and turnbuckles. For a total of 5570.

If those figures work out I should end up about 100 pounds below my GVWR of 13300. Dont know what the weight distribution over the axles will be yet. But I'm thinking about 20% on the front.

Now the 996 base weight is only about 20 pounds less than the 1150 so you may want to refigure your estimated weight of the camper. And remember that the longer the wheelbase of the truck, the more the weight on the rear axle. Those people I know with 1140 / 1150's and a crew cab have 100% of the camper weight on their rear axle. While on a regular cab about 33% of the camper weight falls on the front axle.

I think what your missing is the fact that a crew cab truck with a diesel engine just weighs too much by itself, robs you of needed load capacity and places all the camper weight on the rear axle. Its the reason I went with a gas engine and an extended cab. I also went with a Ford because it had a heavier load capacity (the 2013 is even better than my 2012). But I'm not about to get into the whole Ford vs Chev or gas vs desiel thing. Its what worked best for me.

I can tell you that my RV dealer states that the 990 is the larget AF that should be loaded on a crew cab or single rear wheel truck. Now I know there are those who will argue with that but please dont shoot the messenger.

Truck campers are a series of compromises. And a one ton, duel rear wheel, regular cab, gas engine truck would probably be the best choice to handle the weight. I decided to go with an extended cab and I'm hoping to just make my GVWR and have the proper weight distribution over the axles. Others go the crew cab and diesel route, go over their GVWR (and perhaps axle ratings) and then modify the suspension. We all make our own choices.

But I'm happy to see you doing the homework necessary to drive a safe rig. Finding the right truck / camper combination can be a challenge, and towing makes it even more so. But it can be done.

If I can be of further assistance just ask away!

[Sailor Dave]

This might help you a bit. The link below is for the 2013 Ford F350 Super Duty. Now I'm not pushing or recommending Ford, bit this site will allow you to see how differnt models, engines, cab styles, box length, 4x2 vs 4x4 and single vs duel rear wheels effect the load / towing capacity of the truck.

After entering your zip code you will be transfered to a page that allowes you to pick a model. Once you do that another page will open and you can choose the cab style, box length, engine, 4x2 or 4x4, SRW or DRW.

As you mke these choices the payload and towing capacity numbers will change. These numbers are located just to the right of the MSRP.

This way you can play with different model configurations.

http://bp3.ford.com/2013-Ford-F-350?lang=e...=60608#/Models/

Another tool you might find useful is this calculator:

http://www.visualsc.com/tc_calc.htm

I might add that the F350 offeres more configuration than the F450.

[CAJW]

I finally got some close estimates to work up scenarios with our desired 996 and different trucks we're considering. Our camper configuration and options dry was estimated to be 4350 lbs., so with the three trucks we've got data on we'll squeak under the GVWR. It basically works out where we trim down what we take and travel with less than 10 gallons of water to stay under GVWR. Like you, we will just plan to tank up at a campground and dump the tanks before leaving. Not ideal, but unless the DW decides we can live with a 990 which will save us about 300 lbs. we'll need to live with that scenario. One thing was mentioned about the 996 in that the kitchen slide is forward enough to help shift the COG forward. As we know, transferring some weight to the front axle is always a good thing. Thanks Dave for the input and we hope to be Boondocking within 60 days.

[Sailor Dave]

You can always have your sales rep call Northwoods and get the COG measurement for the 996 with your options and then compare it to the 990 COG with the same options.

I plan on keeping 5 gallons of water in the black water tank and 6 gallons in the hot water heater most of the time. But if I have to travel a long way through a deserted area I may carry enough in the fresh water tank to fill the truck radiator.

I have already made 2 passes over my cargo to weed out any unecessary items. But going full time makes that a bit tough. I should have the cargo weighed by the end of the month, just before I pick up the camper.Its a balancing act for sure!

Keep us posted on your progress.

D

[Sailor Dave]

If your not already a member, I cant recommend this sight enough.

http://www.afnash.com/content.php

[CAJW]

If your not already a member, I cant recommend this sight enough.

http://www.afnash.com/content.php

Yes, thanks, I'm already on that board and am getting good ideas there as well. You are sooo right, it is a balancing act, but with a buddy pushing me to get a 45 ft. 5th wheel like he wants, I'll put up with the maneuverability and flexibility of a TC. Knowing that I just might have to leave my 5 extra cases of water at home and buy some on the fly doesn't bother me at all vs trying to stuff a 55+ foot long RV rig into a campsite somewhere. It's great to have the option of driving down some steep grade into a 25' long spot next to a river somewhere that others have to enjoy from the highway.

[Sailor Dave]

Thats the reason I went with a TC. I was seriously looking at a small class c but couldnt find a layout that compaired to the AF truck camper line. My total foot print will be smaller, I still can drop the camper and use the truck and I'll have more camping spots available.

Speaking of water. I plan on using the fresh water tank exclusivly and not doing the city water hook up even if available. Never have to worry about a water pressure problen or regulator that way.

Using the camper full time, as well as draining it before each move, means a consistant turn over of the tank.

I will be using a prefilter and a carbon block filter when filling the tank and adding a product called Purogene with each tank full.

This system should sanitize, remove bad odor and taste from the water source. It will also extend the time the water remains drinkable while sitting in the tank.

I dont care to be buying bottled water when I already have a large fresh water tank.