I did find out these measurements for a 2013 F350 DRW 6.2L crew cab;

Front 74.1 inches
Rear: 45 inches

These measurements are taken from the rear edge of the truck bed. Measure 45 inches and mark it. Then measure 74 inches and mark that. The COG of the camper should fall between the 2 marks you made.

As you can see, the COG area is actually about 19 inches wide.

Your Ford truck dealer should be able to get the measurements for your truck.

remember that the cog area on your truck extends some distance forward of the rear axle. How much may depend on the wheelbase, but I'm not sure.

I'm in Illinois at the moment but will be flying back to the camper, which is in southern Georgia, on Wednesday. I have the cog guide for my truck there and will check it for you. It should give you a better idea of how large your cog is. I have a 2012 F350 DRW, extended cab.

Dean,

I would ask the dealer to load up the camper and take it to a CAT scale. Many times the dry weight posted on the camper will not include the weight of installed options. I did this with my dealer and he had no problem.

Your on the right track. Just find out what the REAL dry weight of the camper is.

Truck Camper Magazine allows 500 pounds for gear, which I think is a realistic figure.

Then there is water weight, if you plan on traveling with water in your tanks (something I never do).

Cant explain how the truck manufactures arrive at the GVWR number, but once the factory stamps it on the truck your stuck with it.

Sometimes it's best to just ignore narrow minded people.

LOL!!!

I have a 2012 F350 dually, 6.2 liter gas, extended cab, 4X4. Camper is an AF1150.

Fully loaded I'm at 12,900 and my GVWR is 13,300. So don't include me in "everyone".

and the mileage with my 6.2 isn't all that bad. On the county roads (45-55 mph) I get around 10 -11. At highway speeds (65-70 mph) I get around 8-9.
Spent 3 weeks in the mountains of Montana and Wyoming and had no issues with having enough power on the grades.

With the higher cost of diesel fuel these days its difficult to say which engine is more efficient. But I'm not going to get into the whole diesel VS gas thing. LOL

To each his own.

Just remember that all DRW trucks are not equal when it comes to load capacity. The larger the cab and the more options the truck has the lower the load capacity will be.

I ordered my 2012 F350 XL DRW with the highest GVWR (13,300), an extended cab rather than a crew cab, the slide in camper package and the 6.2L rather than the heavier diesel engine.

With my AF 1150 loaded on the truck I'm at 12, 900 pounds. That's a fully loaded camper (I'm full timing) but not any water in the tank. Add the girlfriend, her luggage and some groceries and I'm about at the limit.

You could check the GVWR and the GCWR of the trucks you're looking at. If you have an idea of the trucks curb weight, the camper weight (wet) and the weight of what you plan to tow it will help you to determine if you have too much truck. I'm quite sure you will need a DRW but not all DRW trucks are built the same.

I would suggest you gather up your weights and check those ratings.

Thats the reason I went with a TC. I was seriously looking at a small class c but couldnt find a layout that compaired to the AF truck camper line. My total foot print will be smaller, I still can drop the camper and use the truck and I'll have more camping spots available.

Speaking of water. I plan on using the fresh water tank exclusivly and not doing the city water hook up even if available. Never have to worry about a water pressure problen or regulator that way.

Using the camper full time, as well as draining it before each move, means a consistant turn over of the tank.

I will be using a prefilter and a carbon block filter when filling the tank and adding a product called Purogene with each tank full.

This system should sanitize, remove bad odor and taste from the water source. It will also extend the time the water remains drinkable while sitting in the tank.

I dont care to be buying bottled water when I already have a large fresh water tank.

If your not already a member, I cant recommend this sight enough.

http://www.afnash.com/content.php

You might want to strat with this calculator to get an idea of what TC you should be looking for.

http://test.fifthwheelst.com/

Matching a truck and camper can be a daunting process but there is lots of help to be found here on this forum, as well as on other TC forums.

D

You can always have your sales rep call Northwoods and get the COG measurement for the 996 with your options and then compare it to the 990 COG with the same options.

I plan on keeping 5 gallons of water in the black water tank and 6 gallons in the hot water heater most of the time. But if I have to travel a long way through a deserted area I may carry enough in the fresh water tank to fill the truck radiator.

I have already made 2 passes over my cargo to weed out any unecessary items. But going full time makes that a bit tough. I should have the cargo weighed by the end of the month, just before I pick up the camper.Its a balancing act for sure!

Keep us posted on your progress.

D

This might help you a bit. The link below is for the 2013 Ford F350 Super Duty. Now I'm not pushing or recommending Ford, bit this site will allow you to see how differnt models, engines, cab styles, box length, 4x2 vs 4x4 and single vs duel rear wheels effect the load / towing capacity of the truck.

After entering your zip code you will be transfered to a page that allowes you to pick a model. Once you do that another page will open and you can choose the cab style, box length, engine, 4x2 or 4x4, SRW or DRW.

As you mke these choices the payload and towing capacity numbers will change. These numbers are located just to the right of the MSRP.

This way you can play with different model configurations.

http://bp3.ford.com/2013-Ford-F-350?lang=e...=60608#/Models/

Another tool you might find useful is this calculator:

http://www.visualsc.com/tc_calc.htm

I might add that the F350 offeres more configuration than the F450.

Its so easy to under estimate the weight of these AF truck campers. I went to great lengths to obtain the correct information and my estimate turned out to be within 1% of the actual dry weight. Here is the rundown:

The estimated dry weight came from the brochure as well as from calls to the factory. The actual dry weight (no batteries, water or propane) was done at a CAT scale by the dealer, American RV. They were nice enough to weigh the unit for me before I pick it up on May 1st. They sent me copies of the CAT weigh slips for both the truck used to weigh the camper as well as the truck with the camper loaded.

My estimated weight:

Base weight of 1150: 3358
Fox Value Package: 595
DVD/CD/AM/FM: ?
LCD TV w/bracket: 20
2 solar panels: 64
11K BTU AC: 90
Fox Landing: 27
Thermopane windows: 43
TOTAL: 4197

Actual dry weight: 4240


I'm figuring to add 270 pounds for batteries, propane and 11 gallons of water (5 black & 6 water heater while traveling), 335 pounds for 2 passengers and 725 pounds for gear, which included the truck bed liner, tiedowns and turnbuckles. For a total of 5570.

If those figures work out I should end up about 100 pounds below my GVWR of 13300. Dont know what the weight distribution over the axles will be yet. But I'm thinking about 20% on the front.

Now the 996 base weight is only about 20 pounds less than the 1150 so you may want to refigure your estimated weight of the camper. And remember that the longer the wheelbase of the truck, the more the weight on the rear axle. Those people I know with 1140 / 1150's and a crew cab have 100% of the camper weight on their rear axle. While on a regular cab about 33% of the camper weight falls on the front axle.

I think what your missing is the fact that a crew cab truck with a diesel engine just weighs too much by itself, robs you of needed load capacity and places all the camper weight on the rear axle. Its the reason I went with a gas engine and an extended cab. I also went with a Ford because it had a heavier load capacity (the 2013 is even better than my 2012). But I'm not about to get into the whole Ford vs Chev or gas vs desiel thing. Its what worked best for me.

I can tell you that my RV dealer states that the 990 is the larget AF that should be loaded on a crew cab or single rear wheel truck. Now I know there are those who will argue with that but please dont shoot the messenger.

Truck campers are a series of compromises. And a one ton, duel rear wheel, regular cab, gas engine truck would probably be the best choice to handle the weight. I decided to go with an extended cab and I'm hoping to just make my GVWR and have the proper weight distribution over the axles. Others go the crew cab and diesel route, go over their GVWR (and perhaps axle ratings) and then modify the suspension. We all make our own choices.

But I'm happy to see you doing the homework necessary to drive a safe rig. Finding the right truck / camper combination can be a challenge, and towing makes it even more so. But it can be done.

If I can be of further assistance just ask away!

While I'm not an expert on suspension mods (I only use stable loads) I am very confident is saying that with a CC, diesel, 996 and trailer your going to be over your GVWR and might even exceed your GCWR.

That said, I'm sure there are many people here that can offer advice on suspention upgrades. However it should be pointed out that the GVWR stamped onto the truck cannot be increased.

This may help you out. You will need to know your truck ratings as well as your current weights. You can change the weight of the camper entry until you find one that fits your truck.

http://www.visualsc.com/tc_calc.htm

This type of question is posted a lot and Oscar is right. The only true way to know is to get a curb weight of YOUR truck.

Some people dont realize it but the load capacity of, say, 2 F250"s built the same year could be quite a bit different.

Cab types, box lengths, engine types, 2x4 vs 4x4 and other vehicle options all effect the curb weight of the truck. For example, deisel engins weigh hundreds of pounds more than a gas engine and a crew cab will weigh more than regular cab. This extra weight will rob you of load capacity because the GVWR for both trucks is the same.

The only way to tell what you really have is to take everything out of the truck, fill up the gas tank and take it to a CAT scale and weigh it. This will give you a steer axle (front) weight, a drive axle (rear) weight and the total weight of both.
Subtract your body weight from the total and you have an accurate curb weight.

Then check the door post on the truck for the GVRW (Gross Vehicle Weight rating), the front GAWR (Gross Axke Weight Rating) and the rear GAWR.

Subtract your curb weight from the GVWR and you have your total load capacity. Subtract your steer axle weight from the front GAWR and you have your front axle weight capacity. Subtract your drive axle weight from the rear GAWR and you have your rear axle load capacity.

Now you can make an intellegent choice of which truck camper will best fit your truck.

Dont be surprised if your load capacity is less than you think.

Could it be the buying guide at Truck Camper Magazine? Just click on any of the manufactures for details on their units.

http://www.truckcampermagazine.com/buyers-guide

RV dealer truck recommendations for Arctic Fox campers.......


Ordered my new AF 1150 this past Thursday and saw the following notice posted at American RV in Grands Rapids.

I'm not agreeing or disagreeing with any of it and dont intend to stir up a hornets nest. I just found it interesting and thought I would pass it along. I have to say I did find it refreshing that an RV dealer would be this up front with their policy of matching trucks and AF campers.

Truck Recommendations for Arctic Fox Campers:

1.Must have load range “E” tires or better with 80 PSI cold (maximum pressure).

2.Frame mounted tie downs are a must. The new trucks do not have enough rigidity / strength in the bed and bumper to hold a large camper.

3.Air bags (Firestone, Ride Rite) are needed to assure proper load balance. The rear end of the pickup must be level or slightly higher than the front for proper loading when the camper is mounted and full.

4.Take special care with crew cabs; because of the extra-long length of the crew cab almost all of the load is on the rear axle with none of the load going to the front tires. The very largest camper to go on a crew cab is the 990 and it would be better if the truck was a dually.

5.The largest camper to go on a single rear wheel pickup is the 990.

6.Absolutely no ½ ton pickup trucks are allowed to be loaded with any slide out room camper!

Congrats Oscar!

Keep us posted with stats and pics.

SD

Will be picking up my truck camper this spring and was wondering if the overhead will interfear with a dash mount GPS reception and if I should be looking for a unit that accepts an external antenna.

I have supercab so my overhang will be slightly more than a crew cab.

Anyone out there who is having an issue with their GPS due to the cab over?

Dave

Marekli,

Skyhammer is right on. Load your truck with everything you plan on putting in the camper, passengers and pets and a full tank of fuel then get to a CAT scale and see how much load capacity you have left.

Remember also that the tiedowns and turmbuckles take up some weight. I did this myself and weighed out at 725 pounds for gear, tiedowns, turnbuckles, stable loads and rubber bed mat. Add another 335 for me and the little lady and its over 1000 pounds without the camper figured in.

Be very careful when you buy. Most of the time the tagged weight of the truck camper isnt the real dry weight because it does not include options like A/C, generator, storm or duel pane windows and such. If your buying used have the dealer show you a CAT scale weigh slip for the unit as well as for the curb weight of the truck it was loaded on. Better yet, load it on you own truck and weigh it before you sign on the dotted line.

And if your going to haul and tow you have to figure your CGVWR as well.

I've been researching the right camper for my F350 DRW truck for well over a year and just now making a final choice.

Its a bit of a learning curve but you owe it to yourself to be a fully informed consumer. You'll could find out that you know more about the camper than the sales rep.

D

Larryh,

If you do buy that new truck be sure to check the axle measurement before hand. You might be surprised.

I have a 2012 F350 DWR with the supercab and my rear axle measures about 53 inches back from the front of the box.

4500 pounds dry is a heavy camper. Add your cargo and passengers and your probably over 5000.

D

Hey Oscar,

Nice truck you have there. Been to the scales yet? I'd like to know the curb weight and the weight on the front and rear axles.

Dave