how many amps will a 2000 watt generator put out ? will it be enough to run the air conditioner & frig

To give a good answer is only you will know because an answer needs info as to what size is the air con, and likewise the refrigerator. I would guess the real answer is NO. Our unit is an Adventurer with an onan 2500 propane on board, and it will run both of our appliances, but I won't as the chance of a brown out and damage is too great. Every generator has different ratings. You will have to look at the info attached to each. You need to know the load as to refrigerator, air cond. and all items that may be used at the same time. It is a learning curve that is for sure.

A Honda Eu2000i puts out 1750 watts continuous, & 2K watts surge. It will run some roof AC units (mostly the 9Kbtu size. Many of the 13K AC units require more power to start them. Lotsa folks with that size AC are having a 'quick start' capacitor installed on the AC to assist the smaller generators with running/restart of the larger ACs. I've run our fridge on the Honda Eu2000i generator but havent tried both the fridge & the AC. I agree with Jade Racing, I'd guess no, under normal conditions. The Honda Eu3000 generator or a 2000 & 1K hooked together or a couple of 2Ks in tandem will do OK. I go to a squirrel hunt/camp in southern Illinois each fall and we have a couple of guys there who run large campers (including AC) with a couple of 2K Honda generators in tandem... Takes quite a bit of fuel tho.

thanks guys. looks like I will do a trial & erer

Be careful; insufficient power can damage the motor (and/or the electronics) on the AC...

Rule of thumb (electrical) is...... Starting amps (inrush) is 3 times running amps and typically, a refrigeration compressor is hard to initially start anyway.

If there is any initial load on the compressor (as when it's cycling and there is manifold pressure present), the star inrush is even more. If the genny cannot produce the required starting amps, the compressor motor assumes a locked rotor state and overheats, eventually destroying itself.

Simply put, always check the nameplate running amps (in your owners manual, listed on the net under specs for your particular unit or on the build plate attached to the compressor itself) and multiply the running amps by 3. If you genny cannot produce the required start amps, don't chance it, you'll eventually roast the compressor motor.

thanks. sounds like I should get a bigger generator. I won't need the air on,
now that the weather is getting cooler.

I'd see about getting a bigger generator, or alternatively, see about having a 'Quick Start' capacitor installed on your AC. Lotsa folks on the Fiberglass RV Forum have the smaller fiberglass trailers (13'-24') that have the 13Kbtu ACs & have had problems using a 2KW Honda generator. Many have modified their ACs to include a Quick Start Capacitor & that has apparently solved their problem. I've considered that but since most of our camping is with electric hook-ups I haven't done it yet. Probably the first really hot night spent boondocking I'll give it more serious thought... Best I understand the quick start capacitor stores quite a few amps of power & gives a quick 'burst' of energy to help start the AC motor when triggered, then while the AC is running, stores it up again for the next start/restart?? I may have the terminology wrong and/or an incorrect name for the item but that's what I remember.

Your terms are correct. One word of caution though. The 'quick start' capacitor will be an electrolytic can type well capable of killing you or burning you, should you discharge it inadvertently while fiddling around with your ac unit.

In a factory installed can, the manufacturer usually puts a dropping resistor across the can terminals to 'bleed off' the stored charge when not needed.... for safety reasons.

I believe I'd just size the genny appropriate to the ac unit instead. I see that the Coleman Mach Series comes in 11K btu, sized right for a 2K watt output genny.

I think you're probably correct Flip. Mentioned the quick start 'cause some of the folks on the Fiberglass RV Forum have used it. I have little knowledge in electronics (& little interest) but I try to remember some of the techniques I hear so I can point folks in other directions. We have a 17' Casita Spirit Delux fiberglass trailer with a Carrier brand replacement roof AC. Noisiest darn thing I've had experience with, & really too big for the Casita. On the other hand, the add-on Coleman roof AC on our truck camper is very quiet & appears to be sized about right for the unit. I've only used it while working on/cleaning the camper but I'm impressed, especially with the quiet...

P (power in Watts) = I (current in amps) X E (voltage)

1600(p) = ?(I) x 120(v)

1600(w) devided by 120(v)=13.3(amp)

120V 2000W max. (16.7A) 1600W rated (13.3A)

turn refrigerator onto propane.
make sure hot water heater is on propane.
I have solar so i only run my AC to run the AC when boon docking.
my EU2000 starts my Coleman Polar Cub 9200 BTU AC fine.
I can also run the AC with generator in Eco mode (this is where generator idles down real quiet when there is no load)