You need to match the truck to the camper. You need enough gross vehicle carrying weight so the camper is not overloading the truck. The weight in the bed needs to be balanced correctly from front to back. Pick the camper first and then match the truck to the camper. A long bed would give you more options in camper choice. Look carefully at the truck manufacturers. Some of them have camper packages that you can buy as an option for the truck.

As an example, the Ford camper package includes a rear sway bar, and a relay in the power wiring so the truck battery is isolated from the camper when the ignition is off. My trucks are ordered with the camper package and the last one I ordered from Ford included the snow plow prep package that had a heavier front suspension and a front sway bar.

I added rear airbags because they provide a way to help level the camper when parked. My system has individually controlled airbags so I can compensate front to back or side to side when parked. The airbags also give the ability to level the truck with the camper and that makes it ride better.

What you will find out is that the trucks are bouncy when unloaded and the suspension smooths out under load. The long bed would give a bit better ride. But, you need to find out if a short bed would limit the choice of upgraded suspension packages and camper options from the manufacturer.

Personally, my choice is always a long bed. I carry lumber, metal, etc. in my truck without the camper and I like having an 8-foot bed.

I live in New Mexico. The State considers the camper as cargo and does not license or title the camper. The insurance company covers it under the homeowner's insurance policy when it is off the truck and stored, and under the truck insurance policy when it is loaded in the truck.

I have discussed this with my insurance agent, and the other option is a personal possession rider policy under the homeowner's policy. However, according to the agent, as soon as the camper is loaded into the truck, the camper would then be covered by the truck insurance and not the additional rider policy.

You should consult with your insurance company as insurance companies provide policies allowed under each state's insurance laws - and that varies with each state. What is best for me in New Mexico should not be interpreted as being best for you in the state you live in.

If the refrigerator is propane-powered, there is a pilot that has to be lit for the propane valve to stay open. In all probability, driving the camper has caused the pilot to go out from air being forced down the refrigerator vent and blowing out the pilot. That can be a difficult problem to solve. I had that problem on one camper and made a small baffle that I attached to the roof in front of the refrigerator vent to direct the on-coming air around the vent. That worked fine, but if I was driving in a strong crosswind, the pilot would sometimes be blown out.

If the stove has a vent fan over it, use the fan. If it doesn't use the nearest powered vent fan. I had campers with carpet in them for 30 years and never noticed the carpeting smelling like food. If you're worried about the carpeting, what are you going to do with the upholstered dinette and bedding? They're both cloth and would also absorb odors.

Depends upon the truck. Is it a half-ton, three-quarter ton, etc? You could look at Cirrus, Host Tahoe short bed, Bigfoot 1500 series short-bed, and Northern Lite makes some short bed campers. All of the ones listed are pricey, but like most everything, you get what you pay for. I had a Bigfoot 1500 series for 10 years and a Bigfoot 2500 series for 22 years. I sold both campers for half of what I paid for them making the cost of owning each of them about $500 a year.