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> Looking for anchor bolt assemblies

emcvay
post May 3 2017, 04:42 AM
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From: Washington
Member No.: 9,497
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Arctic Fox
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: Ford F350 Crew cab long box 6.4l 4x4
Type of Tiedowns used: Torklift
Truck and Camper Setup: 2010 F350 PS CC LB SRW with AF990



I decided to start a new thread just for this topic hoping it might be better than just in my camper thread which is becoming a slight rebuild thread wink.gif

I'm looking for a source for new tie down bolts/assemblies for my 1995 Fleetwood Angler.

Guess it doesn't matter much where I get them and I can probably just use an eye bolt with a steel plate but wanted to check here before making a rash decision wink.gif

I'm also thinking of making the metal plate longer than the original (stud to stud maybe) to push the load out further than just a 3 or 4 inch area (which broke).
user posted image
I should get a better pic but this appears to be just a 18g steel plate screwed into the base plate with a hole in it and an eye bolt run through from the bottom and bolted on the top.

Thoughts? Source? Ideas?

Thanks
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Chief 2
post May 3 2017, 05:07 AM
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Joined: 19-March 17
Member No.: 9,469
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Lance
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 2005 Chevrolet 3500 4x4
Type of Tiedowns used: Happijac with Quick Loads
Truck and Camper Setup: 2005 Chevy 3500 4x4 Edge Attitude, 4" exhaust, Airaid Air Intake, Ranchos, Air Bags, Hellwig Big Wig, Cabover struts. Lance 1172 loaded with 200 watt Renogy solar and Zamp controller



QUOTE(emcvay @ May 3 2017, 04:42 AM)
I decided to start a new thread just for this topic hoping it might be better than just in my camper thread which is becoming a slight rebuild thread wink.gif

I'm looking for a source for new tie down bolts/assemblies for my 1995 Fleetwood Angler.

Guess it doesn't matter much where I get them and I can probably just use an eye bolt with a steel plate but wanted to check here before making a rash decision wink.gif

I'm also thinking of making the metal plate longer than the original (stud to stud maybe) to push the load out further than just a 3 or 4 inch area (which broke).
user posted image
I should get a better pic but this appears to be just a 18g steel plate screwed into the base plate with a hole in it and an eye bolt run through from the bottom and bolted on the top.

Thoughts?  Source?  Ideas?

Thanks
*



Wow, that is some pretty bad rot. Certainly unfortunate that occurred. I would think that you could contact any manufacturer and purchase there hold downs. The ones installed in my Lance seem pretty good and sturdy. Lance parts are in California. I also would run the bracing for it along the entire stud. Only makes more sense to spread out the strain on it.
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Nobody
post May 5 2017, 12:39 PM
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Member No.: 6,339
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Palomino
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: '99 Ford F-250 SuperCab long bed, 7.3L Power Stroke
Type of Tiedowns used: Blackstone Mfg Co Camper Clampers, looking for TorkLift
Truck and Camper Setup: 2003 SunLite 8.5 WTSB, modified roof lift to support roof air



Yeah, that's some pretty bad rot. I think I'd clean it up as well as I could, then locate an area of the horizontal stud that is still sound & use a piece of angle, maybe as thick as 12/14 gauge, & run it the length of the rotted are (in conjunction with the Git Rot, CPES, or whatever you're using), & use new eye bolt bolted to the angle. The more you can spread out the load on the tie down eyes, the better off you'll be. I may have missed it in another pic but I can't tell where your stud is 'broken' along its horizontal axis. That will also make a difference on whether you need new stud material or can 'make do' with the existing stud.

I've 're-built' a couple of truck campers with considerable rot but mostly it was in the cabover bed area. I just loosened the aluminum skin & folded it back over the top, be-built the cabover framework & replaced all needed supports before putting the skin back in place. Had to replace the fridge 'vent stack' on one & that was a real job piecing in the cedar 2x2s that formed the original 'stack'. Had to do a lot of notching & angled cuts, then glue & screw the pieces together. Fortunately western red cedar & spruce machines well while still remaining strong...

Good luck on making that stable enough to hold the tie down eye securely.
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SidecarFlip
post May 5 2017, 01:52 PM
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Member No.: 9,221
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Forest River Palomino SS
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 1997 Ford F350 4x4 LB SRW CC 7.3 diesel
Type of Tiedowns used: HappyJac standard
Truck and Camper Setup: 1997 Ford F350 4 door 4x4 Crew Cab 7.3 Diesel, Lance 915 loaded, 2015 Palomino SS1500 Loaded



Motto of the story here is.. It may look like a silk purse on the outside but under the covers it can be a disaster.

I'm sure you have learned to really look a used unit over carefully, especially behind cabinet doors and under the mattress at the side of the cabover. It it's showing water intrusion, it will always be ugly underneath.

Every TC and TT I've ever looked at that was used, all have water intrusion issues. The bad ones are units that owners didn't bother taking the time to check and reseal at least yearly. Twice a year is even betteThe other trick if you will is keeoing the camper inside when not using it. Campers left in the elements degrade even faster and that apples to not just TC's any RV.

If you have to keep it outside, cover it but never use a tarp that lays flat on the roof. Always stand the cover off of the roof with 2x4's spaced out a couple feet. A cober laying flat on a roof (even a breatheable cover, is an invitation for moisture intrusion.
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emcvay
post May 6 2017, 10:45 PM
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Member No.: 9,497
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Arctic Fox
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: Ford F350 Crew cab long box 6.4l 4x4
Type of Tiedowns used: Torklift
Truck and Camper Setup: 2010 F350 PS CC LB SRW with AF990



user posted image
Posted in my other thread but figured I'd add here. I was able to save the old tie downs.

Not doing an extensive restore, just fixing what must be and putting it back in service! I'll be using it next weekend
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Freespool
post May 7 2017, 08:56 AM
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Favorite Truck Camper(s): Still deciding
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 2016 GMC3500dualyy4x4diesel
Type of Tiedowns used: Torklift with Fastguns
Truck and Camper Setup: The plan will utilize a 3500 GMC with a 11 or 12' TC with a full compliment of Torklift hitch components and tie downs. Stable loads if needed will be installed.



Wow, that looks ugly. I was faced with a similar problem 25 years ago after I bought an old 11' Dreamer. The good news is weight is not a problem and everything is exposed. Buy a sheet of marine grade plywood and mill down some quality wood and go to town. I would cut those wings off and replace them with new material. Remove the bad framing and re;place. Then freeze block everywhere. Pre-drill and use dry wall screws. I would also peel that siding up a little more to make sure the rot is only near the bottom. Plate steel and SS eye bolts will be cheap and more than strong enough to hold everything in place. Bottom line, this is all easy work.
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emcvay
post May 7 2017, 10:33 AM
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Member No.: 9,497
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Arctic Fox
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: Ford F350 Crew cab long box 6.4l 4x4
Type of Tiedowns used: Torklift
Truck and Camper Setup: 2010 F350 PS CC LB SRW with AF990



I would do all that if I were going to keep it any length of time but this one was a trial run to see how using the camper would be for my milling operation. It was a $700 camper wink.gif

My idea was to make it safe enough to haul around and use this summer and then sell it.

Next step is to buy a new one with AC, queen bed, bigger bathroom -- or better situated and move on now that I know what I like and don't like about the TC.

It's been great the two times I've used it and I can see it's benefits so I'll fix this one so it's safe to haul and then flog it off (with full disclosure) to whomever would want it.
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SidecarFlip
post May 7 2017, 06:33 PM
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Favorite Truck Camper(s): Forest River Palomino SS
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 1997 Ford F350 4x4 LB SRW CC 7.3 diesel
Type of Tiedowns used: HappyJac standard
Truck and Camper Setup: 1997 Ford F350 4 door 4x4 Crew Cab 7.3 Diesel, Lance 915 loaded, 2015 Palomino SS1500 Loaded



The lower wings on any unit made prior to 2012 were always an issue for 2 reasons. One, on the older units there was always a seam and it always leaked and the older clad units, like yours were the worst.

The along came Filon one piece sides, and no seam (how mine is. No water intrusion or seam to worry about.

I'd still lay in some flat stock above the tie downs as a precaution. No pint in having the next owner deal with an issue in there.
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emcvay
post May 11 2017, 09:01 PM
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Posts: 66
Joined: 5-April 17
From: Washington
Member No.: 9,497
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Arctic Fox
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: Ford F350 Crew cab long box 6.4l 4x4
Type of Tiedowns used: Torklift
Truck and Camper Setup: 2010 F350 PS CC LB SRW with AF990



I should add that I was able to utilize the original tie down bolts after some wire brushing and WD40 biggrin.gif
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SidecarFlip
post May 11 2017, 09:50 PM
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Group: Members
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Member No.: 9,221
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Forest River Palomino SS
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 1997 Ford F350 4x4 LB SRW CC 7.3 diesel
Type of Tiedowns used: HappyJac standard
Truck and Camper Setup: 1997 Ford F350 4 door 4x4 Crew Cab 7.3 Diesel, Lance 915 loaded, 2015 Palomino SS1500 Loaded



If it was me, I'd have headed to the local Ace Hardware and got myself some stainless eyebolts. Newer campers use a steel angle with a hole in it.
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