IPB
Truck Camper Parts

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

 
Reply to this topicStart new topicStart Poll

Outline · [ Standard ] · Linear+

> Another broken tie down...., Front left (drivers side) tie down broke

emcvay
post Jun 30 2017, 03:31 PM
Post #1





Group: Members
Posts: 66
Joined: 5-April 17
From: Washington
Member No.: 9,497
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Arctic Fox
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: Ford F350 Crew cab long box 6.4l 4x4
Type of Tiedowns used: Torklift
Truck and Camper Setup: 2010 F350 PS CC LB SRW with AF990



So I was thinking it was time to strengthen the left side of the camper which had a sagging tie down in the front. I decided to try to pull the siding up enough to access the frame, remove the tie down bolt and tie down metal, then screw through the base plate which I thought was probably not rotted out (because it had been pretty solid to this point) and put it all back together. I figured the staples they used on the 1994 Angler 9D were rusted out and broke (which appears a common problem) and a nice 3" screw into the stud would hold it.

I was wrong.

First the tie down bolt broke, then I saw there was no stud near the tie down like there was on the other side and finally, I had no way to fix it without removing the camper from the truck and stripping the siding off etc, to put in a new base plate.

So here I am, no tie down, need the camper tonight for a job out of town and thinking that I could chain up the jack so I can tie down to it to get me buy for the weekend and then I'll have to remove the camper and rebuild that side.

Thoughts?
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
SidecarFlip
post Jun 30 2017, 05:15 PM
Post #2





Group: Members
Posts: 472
Joined: 15-October 16
Member No.: 9,221
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Forest River Palomino SS
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 1997 Ford F350 4x4 LB SRW CC 7.3 diesel
Type of Tiedowns used: HappyJac standard
Truck and Camper Setup: 1997 Ford F350 4 door 4x4 Crew Cab 7.3 Diesel, Lance 915 loaded, 2015 Palomino SS1500 Loaded



QUOTE(emcvay @ Jun 30 2017, 03:31 PM)
So I was thinking it was time to strengthen the left side of the camper which had a sagging tie down in the front.  I decided to try to pull the siding up enough to access the frame, remove the tie down bolt and tie down metal, then screw through the base plate which I thought was probably not rotted out (because it had been pretty solid to this point) and put it all back together.  I figured the staples they used on the 1994 Angler 9D were rusted out and broke (which appears a common problem) and a nice 3" screw into the stud would hold it.

I was wrong.

First the tie down bolt broke, then I saw there was no stud near the tie down like there was on the other side and finally, I had no way to fix it without removing the camper from the truck and stripping the siding off etc, to put in a new base plate.

So here I am, no tie down, need the camper tonight for a job out of town and thinking that I could chain up the jack so I can tie down to it to get me buy for the weekend and then I'll have to remove the camper and rebuild that side.

Thoughts?


*



Ratchet strap it to the truck body. Don't have to be real tight and use a 1" wide strap with hooks on the ends. Just watch where it goes over the roof edge. Might want to slip in a chunk of old carpet on the edge.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
emcvay
post Jul 1 2017, 11:23 AM
Post #3





Group: Members
Posts: 66
Joined: 5-April 17
From: Washington
Member No.: 9,497
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Arctic Fox
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: Ford F350 Crew cab long box 6.4l 4x4
Type of Tiedowns used: Torklift
Truck and Camper Setup: 2010 F350 PS CC LB SRW with AF990



Tied down to the back. Only problem is the camper shift back an inch or so but other wise feels good and rides stable
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Nobody
post Jul 1 2017, 06:47 PM
Post #4





Group: Members
Posts: 124
Joined: 5-November 12
Member No.: 6,339
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Palomino
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: '99 Ford F-250 SuperCab long bed, 7.3L Power Stroke
Type of Tiedowns used: Blackstone Mfg Co Camper Clampers, looking for TorkLift
Truck and Camper Setup: 2003 SunLite 8.5 WTSB, modified roof lift to support roof air



I think I'd follow SidecarFlip's advice & strap it down with a ratchet strap at least until I got a new eye bolt tie down operational. Leaving the front unsecured is just asking for trouble. No matter how slowly or safely you drive, wind & weather can surprise you. We're experiencing a somewhat violent Thunderstorm here in central Arkansas at the moment. Sure glad my truck & pop-up camper are parked in my backyard now & not 'on the road' even with 4 intact eyebolts holding it down along witha set of Camper Clamper tie downs by Blackstone Mfg Co of Chicago. Depending on only a rear set of eyebolts is just asking for trouble!
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
emcvay
post Jul 1 2017, 07:50 PM
Post #5





Group: Members
Posts: 66
Joined: 5-April 17
From: Washington
Member No.: 9,497
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Arctic Fox
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: Ford F350 Crew cab long box 6.4l 4x4
Type of Tiedowns used: Torklift
Truck and Camper Setup: 2010 F350 PS CC LB SRW with AF990



This: Tied down to the back.

Should have said 'tied down to the jack'
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
emcvay
post Jul 5 2017, 08:00 AM
Post #6





Group: Members
Posts: 66
Joined: 5-April 17
From: Washington
Member No.: 9,497
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Arctic Fox
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: Ford F350 Crew cab long box 6.4l 4x4
Type of Tiedowns used: Torklift
Truck and Camper Setup: 2010 F350 PS CC LB SRW with AF990



I have the right side which was fixed earlier, so without the left there were three. What I did was tie it down off the jack (see pic) and that seemed to work but the camper appeared to shift rearward on me an inch or so....this also happened before tieing it down this way I think as the rear tie downs got loose on my way home from a show. They see to do this after 50 miles or more over rough road.
user posted image
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
SidecarFlip
post Jul 5 2017, 12:01 PM
Post #7





Group: Members
Posts: 472
Joined: 15-October 16
Member No.: 9,221
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Forest River Palomino SS
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 1997 Ford F350 4x4 LB SRW CC 7.3 diesel
Type of Tiedowns used: HappyJac standard
Truck and Camper Setup: 1997 Ford F350 4 door 4x4 Crew Cab 7.3 Diesel, Lance 915 loaded, 2015 Palomino SS1500 Loaded



Might as well forget photobucket for hosting pictures. They changed their user agreement and now you have to 'pay to play' on most pictures.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
emcvay
post Jul 5 2017, 01:24 PM
Post #8





Group: Members
Posts: 66
Joined: 5-April 17
From: Washington
Member No.: 9,497
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Arctic Fox
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: Ford F350 Crew cab long box 6.4l 4x4
Type of Tiedowns used: Torklift
Truck and Camper Setup: 2010 F350 PS CC LB SRW with AF990



Guess I need a new place to host them
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
emcvay
post Jul 8 2017, 01:33 PM
Post #9





Group: Members
Posts: 66
Joined: 5-April 17
From: Washington
Member No.: 9,497
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Arctic Fox
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: Ford F350 Crew cab long box 6.4l 4x4
Type of Tiedowns used: Torklift
Truck and Camper Setup: 2010 F350 PS CC LB SRW with AF990



user posted image
Damaged tie down -- not as bad as I feared.

user posted image
Good wood immediately to the right of the bad tie down

user posted image
Since this side is 90% good strong wood I'm thinking of going back about 3 feet and putting in the new plate to there then re-enforcing it by placing a secong on top of it between the studs. Basically I will scab in a 3 foot section of the base plate and place a second 1x2 on top of it (glued and screwed) and use metal T brackets to tie everything together to ensure the draw down on the Tie Down will draw down on more than just a corner.

Make sense?

I'm wondering if 3 feet is over doing it? Can I get away with two feet? 18" Metal across it and call it good?
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
SidecarFlip
post Jul 9 2017, 07:21 AM
Post #10





Group: Members
Posts: 472
Joined: 15-October 16
Member No.: 9,221
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Forest River Palomino SS
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 1997 Ford F350 4x4 LB SRW CC 7.3 diesel
Type of Tiedowns used: HappyJac standard
Truck and Camper Setup: 1997 Ford F350 4 door 4x4 Crew Cab 7.3 Diesel, Lance 915 loaded, 2015 Palomino SS1500 Loaded



QUOTE(emcvay @ Jul 8 2017, 01:33 PM)
user posted image
Damaged tie down -- not as bad as I feared.

user posted image
Good wood immediately to the right of the bad tie down

user posted image
Since this side is 90% good strong wood I'm thinking of going back about 3 feet and putting in the new plate to there then re-enforcing it by placing a secong on top of it between the studs.  Basically I will scab in a 3 foot section of the base plate and place a second 1x2 on top of it (glued and screwed) and use metal T brackets to tie everything together to ensure the draw down on the Tie Down will draw down on more than just a corner.

Make sense?

I'm wondering if 3 feet is over doing it?  Can I get away with two feet?  18"  Metal across it and call it good?
*



The longer the better if you plan on keeping the unit. If not, the shorter the better...lol

I would have a hard look at the joint between the underside of the camper and the vertical sheet that makes up the bed well. Looks to me like there is a substantial gap in your pictures. I'd be sealing that too.

Builders really chintz out on securing stuff don't they? Friggin staples.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
emcvay
post Jul 9 2017, 05:02 PM
Post #11





Group: Members
Posts: 66
Joined: 5-April 17
From: Washington
Member No.: 9,497
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Arctic Fox
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: Ford F350 Crew cab long box 6.4l 4x4
Type of Tiedowns used: Torklift
Truck and Camper Setup: 2010 F350 PS CC LB SRW with AF990



I cut out 39" of the broken base plate and scabbed in a replacement from DF#2 I cut down on my table saw -- basically the same thing I did for the other side except not the entire side.

After drilling the hole for the tie down and removing the broken bolt and running a tap through the nut side so I could put a new bolt in, I drilled the base plate for the tie down and glued it in place with liquid nails and then screwed it to the studs with 3 1/2" self tapping wood screws (deck screws).

Then I placed a 16" simpson strong tie metal tie and screwed it into the new base plate section and the good old one.

Now I'll put some 90 degree brackets and some T brackets in to strengthen the connection to the studs and put it all back together with the final step being that I will use Git Rot on the bad plywood to try to tighten it up a bit under the base plate and finally stuff the insulation back in and affix the siding I lifted to affect the repairs.

Then I'm going to call it and head out on my next trip smile.gif

and sell in September!
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
emcvay
post Jul 9 2017, 05:25 PM
Post #12





Group: Members
Posts: 66
Joined: 5-April 17
From: Washington
Member No.: 9,497
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Arctic Fox
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: Ford F350 Crew cab long box 6.4l 4x4
Type of Tiedowns used: Torklift
Truck and Camper Setup: 2010 F350 PS CC LB SRW with AF990



user posted image
The new tie inserted in the new plate

user posted image
And the simspon tie.

Still much to do but I can wait for the glue to cure now.

The plywood is ugly but I think once it's treated and the siding is back on it won't matter
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
emcvay
post Jul 9 2017, 09:21 PM
Post #13





Group: Members
Posts: 66
Joined: 5-April 17
From: Washington
Member No.: 9,497
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Arctic Fox
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: Ford F350 Crew cab long box 6.4l 4x4
Type of Tiedowns used: Torklift
Truck and Camper Setup: 2010 F350 PS CC LB SRW with AF990



user posted image
Finished!

user posted image
I still need to silicone the seems etc but I think she'll hold now smile.gif
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Chief 2
post Jul 10 2017, 07:07 AM
Post #14





Group: Members
Posts: 59
Joined: 19-March 17
Member No.: 9,469
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Lance
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 2005 Chevrolet 3500 4x4
Type of Tiedowns used: Happijac with Quick Loads
Truck and Camper Setup: 2005 Chevy 3500 4x4 Edge Attitude, 4" exhaust, Airaid Air Intake, Ranchos, Air Bags, Hellwig Big Wig, Cabover struts. Lance 1172 loaded with 200 watt Renogy solar and Zamp controller



Nice job
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
emcvay
post Jul 10 2017, 08:41 AM
Post #15





Group: Members
Posts: 66
Joined: 5-April 17
From: Washington
Member No.: 9,497
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Arctic Fox
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: Ford F350 Crew cab long box 6.4l 4x4
Type of Tiedowns used: Torklift
Truck and Camper Setup: 2010 F350 PS CC LB SRW with AF990



Thanks

Only worries I have now are: did I get enough support built in to not pull down the new section of wood -- I think I did, I think I have more support now than the original manufacture had. We will see.

And, is the nut portion of the tie down bracket weak? I had to drill out the old tie down bolt section (the part left after it broke) and tap it out leaving it less than idea. I noticed when tightening the new tie down in the final install that it felt like I better stop. Just one of those feelings you get that if you ignore sometimes results in a stripped nut wink.gif Not sure but I stopped and hope I didn't go too far. Seems solid though.

Worst case is I'll have to open the siding again and install a longer bolt with a nut on top. Not a big deal really, just a pain in the rear.

Going to have to seal it all up but first want to get it on the truck and go for a test drive smile.gif
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
SidecarFlip
post Jul 10 2017, 11:34 AM
Post #16





Group: Members
Posts: 472
Joined: 15-October 16
Member No.: 9,221
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Forest River Palomino SS
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 1997 Ford F350 4x4 LB SRW CC 7.3 diesel
Type of Tiedowns used: HappyJac standard
Truck and Camper Setup: 1997 Ford F350 4 door 4x4 Crew Cab 7.3 Diesel, Lance 915 loaded, 2015 Palomino SS1500 Loaded



I would use Dicor or Sikaflex over silicone. Much better sealants. I see you are missing the extruded vent screen in your HWH access door. I would suggest a rectangle of aluminum hardware cloth, pop riveted to the inside of the door. I did that to mine and replaced the extruded aluminum vent screen (that won't stop critters from moving in at all)...

I think you should keep the camper and keep improving it. It's all about you now.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
emcvay
post Jul 10 2017, 05:48 PM
Post #17





Group: Members
Posts: 66
Joined: 5-April 17
From: Washington
Member No.: 9,497
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Arctic Fox
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: Ford F350 Crew cab long box 6.4l 4x4
Type of Tiedowns used: Torklift
Truck and Camper Setup: 2010 F350 PS CC LB SRW with AF990



I'm looking for some options in a camper that this one doesn't have. AC for one as it gets HOT here in the eastern part of WA, entertainment for those evenings after milling would be nice, LED's to save the battery, bigger toilet area (I'm 245lbs so have to shoehorn in there), MW for quick meals in the field would be nice and of course a queen sized bed and more storage.

Also want some awnings for shade during breaks smile.gif

I figure I may buy new next year but will sell this one in the fall to hunters and save the money for a downpayment
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
SidecarFlip
post Jul 11 2017, 07:04 AM
Post #18





Group: Members
Posts: 472
Joined: 15-October 16
Member No.: 9,221
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Forest River Palomino SS
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 1997 Ford F350 4x4 LB SRW CC 7.3 diesel
Type of Tiedowns used: HappyJac standard
Truck and Camper Setup: 1997 Ford F350 4 door 4x4 Crew Cab 7.3 Diesel, Lance 915 loaded, 2015 Palomino SS1500 Loaded



QUOTE(emcvay @ Jul 10 2017, 05:48 PM)
I'm looking for some options in a camper that this one doesn't have.  AC for one as it gets HOT here in the eastern part of WA, entertainment for those evenings after milling would be nice, LED's to save the battery, bigger toilet area (I'm 245lbs so have to shoehorn in there), MW for quick meals in the field would be nice and of course a queen sized bed and more storage.

Also want some awnings for shade during breaks smile.gif

I figure I may buy new next year but will sell this one in the fall to hunters and save the money for a downpayment
*



All those things save the larger bathroom are addable... Your only issue with a larger bathroom will be camper weight and length and keep in mind that with a MW, you'll need a genny. A MW pulls too many watts to run with an inverter and batteries.

AC fits a standard 14 x 14 roof vent opening. LED's are aftermarket too. Mine came with interior LED's but I changed all the exterior bulbs to LED and added a rear view wireless observation camera. Got them from Superbright LEDs.com I added a MW but I also have a 2000 watt inverter genny (no solar on roof). I also added a bag awning (Carefree of Coloraso) to mine. Mine came with an awning rail installed but Carefree also sells awning rail on any length you want. Think my Bag awning was around 250 shipped.

You will never have enough storage with a TC, even one with a basement and keep in mind that a TC optioned the way you want will be heavy (at least 2500+ pounds empty and probably more and will cost upwards of 25-30K., unless of course you buy another used one, but, you already know about used TC and the issues you can / will have from previous owners not maintaining the seals.

If you do buy a newer later model used one, you now know where to look (for water intrusion) and how to look (under the front bunk in the nose and inside the cabinets at the floor/ wall seam/transition inside for telltale water stains on the interior wallboard.

Newer units will most likely be Filon clad instead of textured / ribbed aluminum and that presents some unique issues as far as rot remediation. With a Filon sheathed unit, you cannot 'peel back' the Filon like aluminum siding. It has to be cut and removed and then replaced by fiberglassing, a tedious job with mixed results. keep that in mind.

One thing about Filon is, if the superstructure is deteriorating it will show on the Filon sheathing as what is called 'Delamination'. The Filon will lift off the substructure because the glue used to adhere it to the substructure lets go from the moisture and the Filon lifts and looks wrinkled.

Thats the good part. The hard part is removal, replacement of course. Your aluminum clad unit is a cake job compared to a Filon clad camper.

With Filon, rot will be discernable on the outside (by looking down the side and seeing the delamination, whereas an aluminum clad unit, you need to do duee dillegence on the inside as well as the outside. I do both inside and outside when looking at used units no matter what they are clad with.

If I were to buy used (and I don't know if you are considering that, in as much as new will be costly with the stuff you want, and may even entail a new, larger truck, buying used with unseen issues, I'd steer clear of a Filon clad unit just because of the added pain of removing and replacing the Filon siding.

Your choice. Of course I will be curious as to what you decide and which route you go.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
emcvay
post Jul 14 2017, 08:10 AM
Post #19





Group: Members
Posts: 66
Joined: 5-April 17
From: Washington
Member No.: 9,497
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Arctic Fox
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: Ford F350 Crew cab long box 6.4l 4x4
Type of Tiedowns used: Torklift
Truck and Camper Setup: 2010 F350 PS CC LB SRW with AF990



Hmmmmm certainly gives me some things to think about.

I may just buy new. My payload on this truck is 3370lbs so I should be fine with something in the 2000-2500lbs range and the tongue weight on my mill is only about 150lbs - so I'm not too worried there.

I'm thinking sticking with a 9 foot camper (maybe as much as 9'9") as I'm hearing from dealers those are about as big as they recommend for a 1 ton SRW 4x4 crew like mine.

I realize I can put AC in this unit and may do that but it needs other work too and I just don't feel like doing it all LOL I've done the structural stuff to get buy but this camper is also too small for my truck. I have to put 2" insulation under it so it doesn't rub on the cab and it's too short for my long box and slightly rubs the passenger tailight which irritates me. Also the tie downs are RIGHT in the way of the fuel cap. I have to take off the drivers side tie down to fill up. I can move the Torklifts to push the tie down back out of the way a bit but then the camper slides back in the box too.

Also, I want electric jacks. I put it on and off alone everytime and think those would be worth the money.

Anyway, I'm going to do the minor things needed to turn this $700 camper into a $2000+ camper, sell it and stick that money in the 'camper fund' for the next one smile.gif And the next one will likely be a new one as I'm kinda worried about what I might find in a an older one now! HA!
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
SidecarFlip
post Jul 19 2017, 09:51 AM
Post #20





Group: Members
Posts: 472
Joined: 15-October 16
Member No.: 9,221
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Forest River Palomino SS
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 1997 Ford F350 4x4 LB SRW CC 7.3 diesel
Type of Tiedowns used: HappyJac standard
Truck and Camper Setup: 1997 Ford F350 4 door 4x4 Crew Cab 7.3 Diesel, Lance 915 loaded, 2015 Palomino SS1500 Loaded



This is my opinion on ANY new TC... Don't buy new right now, unless it's a limited build unit, for example a Four Wheel Camper or a Hallmark, where it's a built to order unit.

Reason being is, builders are cranking out so many units today (to attempt to keep up with demand) that the overall quality, fit and finish and attention to detail is in the toilet and you'll have issues galore with a new camper.

I see that constantly now. Like I said, the best solution is a special order, built one at a time custom camper. Any 'cookie cutter' camper will be the pits presently.

The philosophy of 'Build them cheap and stack them deep' is the industry mantra right now...and of course sell them for as much money as possible.

I think the industry, as a whole will learn a hard lesson in the not too distant future about instead of building TC's willy-nilly, to concentrate on a quality build and a happy (and repeat) buyer.

My unit that I have was built prior to this 'balls to the wall' crunch and I've had no issues other than minor (fixable myself) ones.

The next couple years will be a bad tome to buy new, unless you want to 'visit' the unit at a dealer while it's waiting for warranty work.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post

Reply to this topicTopic OptionsStart new topic
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:
 

Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 28th March 2024 - 05:02 PM