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DWJoyce Posted on: Jun 24 2018, 05:06 PM





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QUOTE(ToniFranklin @ May 30 2018, 07:47 AM)
Hi,

What are the drawbacks to building a pickup truck camper shell, rather than a slide-in, as a cabover ? I've found many plans for slide's and so on, but never anything like a simple shell that would include a cabover compartment. I'm wondering whether there's an inherent problem that prevents this.

Please help.

I didn't find the right solution from the Internet.

References:-
https://www.glen-l.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=18630
Marketing video production service

Thanks!
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Camper manufacturers would make cabover shells if they could make money off them. With the additional structure required of a cabover, a shell with a cabover would be twice the cost.

If you build it yourself, there's no problem. It's significantly more structurally difficult to build the cabover. I rebuilt a smallish cabover camper reusing only the aluminum siding, windows and accessories.

Steel reinforceing 1x1" angle welded into an L was used to support the 3/4" plywood cabover bottom from the front of the camper behind the cab. Additionally, there is a 1x6 that runs the full length of each side of the camper (12 feet long) supporting the cantilever. With these four additional structural members, the cabover is solid as a rock.
  Forum: Truck Camper Specs · Post Preview: #3110923 · Replies: 1 · Views: 93,405

DWJoyce Posted on: Mar 15 2018, 07:03 PM





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QUOTE(Nan1222 @ Mar 12 2018, 02:19 PM)
Hi, I’m wondering if anyone would know the weight of this camper? Looking to buy it but not sure if my 2013 F150 would tow it.  Help??[attachmentid=753]
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I've got one similar that weights about 1000lbs wet. Put it on your truck and go find a truck scale. Your 1/2 ton should handle 1500 pounds easy. Air bags will make it ride better.
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3110683 · Replies: 5 · Views: 35,726

DWJoyce Posted on: Nov 24 2017, 12:24 AM





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QUOTE(Beatrice @ Oct 4 2015, 10:33 AM)
OK, I will try again but there doesn't seem to be any action at all on this forum. Is there a hard sided on-truck (in the bed) truck camper out there other than Alaskan, which I already am familiar with? I'm looking for a light weight, low profile pop up that is all hard materials, preferably fiberglass or metal. No canvas etc. Anybody?
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Why is a popup important? Some old 80's cabovers only weight around 1500 pounds wet. More air resistance than a popup and taller of course, but nice and light.

If you found one, you would probably need to make repairs, which you could use as an opportunity to customize it to your tastes. Mine was extreme, but free. It required a complete rebuild using the original siding and windows. It now has winter-capable insulation, a double sink, stove, microwave, fridge, modern lighting (LED) and hookups, shower, and a sofa that converts into a desk. Enough water and propane for several days of boondocking too. A lot of work, but just what I wanted.

  Forum: Truck Camper Specs · Post Preview: #3110073 · Replies: 9 · Views: 96,245

DWJoyce Posted on: Jul 31 2017, 07:38 PM





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Not a lot of damage. A few more hours, a few dollars for wood, and many hours of cleaning and you've got a really nice Lance!

Get rid of all that OSB. Amazing Lance used that junk. Replace it with CDX treated with Marine Spar and you'll never regret it.

Enjoy your project and the great outdoors!
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3109649 · Replies: 13 · Views: 26,559

DWJoyce Posted on: Jul 25 2017, 09:53 PM





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QUOTE(SidecarFlip @ Jul 23 2017, 10:02 PM)
Not something I want to do at all.  Just not into restoring a camper.  I buy 'em new and keep them a long time but I'm also very careful about keeping them sealed up.

Sold my 2001 Lance to the neighbor and it was still tight and dry.

If I had one like that, I'd strip out all the useable parts and landfill the rest or have a wiener roast out back.
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Yeah, no kidding. I considered doing just that. In fact, most of it ended up in the firewood pile. But the timing was right and it was FREE. I've really enjoyed rebuilding it and I'll probably give it to my nephew for his kid's overnight sports tournaments.

Amazingly, from what was left, the bottom of the cabover was just one sheet of 3/4" plywood held up by the sides and the Aluminum siding. No wonder it sagged a bit, heh?

A few more weeks and it will be back together, better than new.
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3109609 · Replies: 16 · Views: 31,569

DWJoyce Posted on: Jul 23 2017, 07:38 PM





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QUOTE(Nobody @ Jul 23 2017, 05:25 PM)
... I agree completely. It appears that the bottom of the 'cabover' portion has 'sagged' considerably...


Yep, take a look...
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3109585 · Replies: 16 · Views: 31,569

DWJoyce Posted on: Jul 23 2017, 07:25 PM





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deleted
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3109583 · Replies: 16 · Views: 31,569

DWJoyce Posted on: Jul 22 2017, 03:50 PM





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QUOTE(SidecarFlip @ Jul 7 2017, 09:49 PM)
...inspected every 3 months, stem to stern and if I find anything suspect, it gets recaulked with the appropriate material, Sikaflex, Dicor lap or self levelling (sepending on surface application and butyl tape if required.
...


I'm now at the point where I'm putting the siding back on my project. The Aluminum siding has at most 3/16" projections and is nearly flat at the windows, hatches and door.

What materials would you suggest for sealing the windows, hatches and door? Butyl tape was originally used for building it in the 70s and it leaked like a sieve. I'm sure there are better materials now...

I'll be using it off road at times on my 4x4 truck so I need it to hold up.

Thank you.
  Forum: Matching Truck and Camper · Post Preview: #3109563 · Replies: 14 · Views: 97,318

DWJoyce Posted on: Jul 22 2017, 03:32 PM





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QUOTE(byron @ Jul 14 2017, 07:56 AM)
Thanks guys. I considered the benefits of an eight ft bed that were mentioned, like upgrading to a bigger camper later, as well as resale value and such. But there are just a ton more six ft beds out there at better prices.

I will keep the tailgate opening width in mind...
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A buddy of mine searched for a 3/4 ton long bed crew cab 2006 Dodge with a Cummins 5.9 (?) and tow package. Took him months to find one, but he flew to Arizona and drove it home. Patience paid off for him big time.
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3109557 · Replies: 6 · Views: 14,289

DWJoyce Posted on: Jul 22 2017, 03:19 PM





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QUOTE(ttrain @ Jul 21 2017, 01:18 PM)
I have but the cabinets, or at least some of them, don't look original.  There is a faded sticker residue on the exterior of the camper that looks like it said "LTD International, Bronson, MI" but I haven't had luck with internet searches for that.
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Mine had nothing missing, so I got lucky and found the manufacturer on the CA business records. About all I could tell from that was they made campers from 1964 until 1980.Attached Image
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3109555 · Replies: 16 · Views: 31,569

DWJoyce Posted on: Jul 22 2017, 03:10 PM





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QUOTE(Bob55 @ Jul 17 2015, 04:13 AM)
... it can tip over because it's top heavy and is dangerous...


Truck campers are bottom heavy. Even the old ones from the 70s, without grey and black water tanks, have very little structure above the plywood base. I'm rebuilding an old one and have calculated that the part of the camper at or below the bedsides is 70% of the total weight. The only reason it isn't higher is because the cabover has a full sheet of plywood and a few appliances and the propane bottle are above the bed.

That said, the side area is at least twice the side area of the truck by itself. To solve that problem, open the windows if you need to drive in a very strong side wind.
  Forum: Truck Camper Specs · Post Preview: #3109553 · Replies: 12 · Views: 97,125

DWJoyce Posted on: Jul 6 2017, 08:04 PM





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If you have wood rot and can do woodworking the fix is inexpensive but time consuming. I was given a 1980 cabover camper with nearly perfect siding and windows. When I put it on the truck it nearly fell apart. I've replaced the entire base and most of the wood for about $300 in wood, screws, glue, and something like 100 hours so far. If it didn't enjoy this kind of work I would have just sold the windows and siding and taken the rest to the dump.

In other words: the outside can look great, but the inside can be completely rotted and useless. I'll post a few photos of my project.
  Forum: Matching Truck and Camper · Post Preview: #3109457 · Replies: 14 · Views: 97,318

DWJoyce Posted on: May 12 2017, 02:41 PM





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Thank you sidecarflip. That's what I was looking for!
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3109199 · Replies: 3 · Views: 11,072

DWJoyce Posted on: May 11 2017, 03:10 PM





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I was just given an 8 foot cabover camper with straight aluminum siding, perfect windows and accessories, and significant wood rot in one side and the plywood floor. I think I'll remove all the siding, repair the damage to the frame, build a new base, install new insulation and new interior paneling.

Has anyone used PVC or Composite decking boards instead of wood for camper rot repair? I know it's expensive, but wouldn't it be useful for repairs in certain places, like window and door frames? Seems it would be a time-saver over waterproofing douglas fir boards.

Then there's expensive marine plywood. Is there a less expensive alternative? Like just painting exterior plywood or coating it with bed liner?

What about using fiberglass for building a new base using techniques similar to boat construction? What I mean is a thin plywood structure covered in fiberglass, instead of 1 inch plywood sheets screwed and glued together then covered with rubberized paint.

Thank you.
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3109175 · Replies: 3 · Views: 11,072

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