IPB
Truck Camper Parts

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

 
Reply to this topicStart new topicStart Poll

Outline · [ Standard ] · Linear+

> Stable setup?, 1998 3500 DRW 12V 5 speed w/3500lb TC

alittlesideways
post Feb 15 2015, 07:56 PM
Post #1





Group: Members
Posts: 1
Joined: 15-February 15
Member No.: 7,979
Favorite Truck Camper(s): S&S
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 98 Dodge Ram 3500 Dually Single Cab
Type of Tiedowns used: Torklift
Truck and Camper Setup: 98 Dodge Ram 3500 Dually Single Cab, 2004 S & S Ponderosa Series M-11-DB .Rear Firestone airbags.



Hello Truck camper forum..
I just bought a truck camper (2004 S & S Ponderosa Series M-11-DB ) a deal I could not turn away. It is Heavy around 3600lbs loaded with water, 60 gal of propane for the generator, quality truck camper I must say, cant wait to use it to go fishing... the truck( 98 12v Single Cab, 8ft bed 2wd with 130K) has air bags, and stock moog front springs. I put about 70 psi in all 6 tires and both Firestone airbags to 70psi , the truck feels a little wobbly at high speed (65 +) and over bumps in town, but I'm getting used to it, got 16 mpg hauling it home from PA in 40mph headwind, and it pulls like almost not loaded. ( < Buying a SuperhHitch with 48in extension to tow my 12ft trailer(Dreaming).>)

Should I buy a club cab 4x4 ? Duramax club cab 4x4? or any upgrades like heavy duty front springs, front air bags ? Blistens ? Rear end Mods besides airbags on my 2wd? Is it Normal to have a camper this size with a 2wd and possible towing? Always have a failed ball joint in the back of my mind..

I had a 39ft toy hauler 10K. I owned and towed with this same truck and it did fine... I have a good bit of $ in this truck, has banks twin intake and banks turbo kit, other than that stock and new front end parts, new standard gear and trans 5 speed upgraded , Double disk south bend clutch, new rear.. List goes on..

Any input from other truck camper owners over 3000Lbs about how there rig drives would be great? I just want input before i dump more cash into the truck , Pacbrake, Front and rear Hitch..Etc..There is pic of Rig in my avatar .
user posted image

user posted image
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Electric Don
post Feb 16 2015, 02:53 PM
Post #2





Group: Members
Posts: 31
Joined: 9-February 11
Member No.: 5,297
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Lance 805
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 2011 Ford F250 4X4 Crew Cab
Type of Tiedowns used: Basic turnbuckles
Truck and Camper Setup: Camper is 8 feet, designed for short box truck.



Have you checked the numbers, i.e. GVWR minus curb weight of the truck versus wet weight of the camper? If you are within the rating, then you should be OK with the existing truck. You might have to do some work on stabilizing it if it seems a bit wobbly. Re buying a new truck, keep in mind that adding things like a club cab and 4wd adds weight, and reduces your payload capacity. If you buy a new truck go for lots of capacity.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Rapid
post Jul 4 2017, 09:45 PM
Post #3





Group: Members
Posts: 1
Joined: 4-July 17
Member No.: 9,597
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Host
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 2010 Ford F350 DRW
Type of Tiedowns used: Custom
Truck and Camper Setup: Winter: Ford F350 4x4 SRW Cummins 12 V, 4" lift Custom wheels with 22.5 winter tires. semi chains. Summer: Ford F350 DRW, 6.4 Power stroke deleted. Artic Fox 11.5 with slide, generator, air, everything. Two different Trucks



QUOTE(alittlesideways @ Feb 15 2015, 07:56 PM)
Hello Truck camper forum..
I just bought a truck camper (2004 S & S Ponderosa Series M-11-DB )  a deal I could not turn away.  It is Heavy around 3600lbs loaded with water, 60 gal of propane for the generator, quality truck camper I must say, cant wait to use it to go fishing... the truck( 98 12v Single Cab, 8ft bed 2wd with 130K) has air bags, and stock moog front springs.  I put about 70 psi in all 6 tires and both Firestone airbags to 70psi , the truck feels a little wobbly at high speed (65 +) and over bumps in town, but I'm getting used to it, got 16 mpg hauling it home from PA in 40mph headwind, and it pulls like almost not loaded. ( < Buying a SuperhHitch with 48in extension to tow my 12ft trailer(Dreaming).>)

Should I buy a  club cab 4x4 ?  Duramax club cab 4x4? or any upgrades like heavy duty front springs, front air bags ?  Blistens ?  Rear end Mods besides airbags on my 2wd?  Is it Normal to have a camper this size with a 2wd and possible towing?  Always have a failed ball joint in the back of my mind..

I had a 39ft toy hauler 10K.  I owned and towed with this same truck and it did fine... I have a good bit of $ in this truck, has banks twin intake and banks turbo kit, other than that stock and new front end parts, new standard gear and trans 5 speed upgraded , Double disk south bend clutch, new rear.. List goes on..

Any input from other truck camper owners over 3000Lbs about how there rig drives would be great?  I just want input before i dump more cash into the truck ,  Pacbrake, Front and rear Hitch..Etc..There is pic of Rig in my avatar .
user posted image

user posted image
*



I have a much heavier truck camper that I use summer and winter. First off I would add about 70 more pounds to the airbags. I run mine at 150 and have for years, greatly helps stability. Next max out your tires as it will help with sway. You should be good. I had the same S&S loaded onto a lifted 1983 F350 diesel, max bags, and to take out the sway a set of custom 22.5 wheels and tires. 14 ply rating 5500 lbs per tire. Stable as can be. So buy the highest ply rating tire you can put on the truck and run max air pressure.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
SidecarFlip
post Jul 4 2017, 10:02 PM
Post #4





Group: Members
Posts: 342
Joined: 15-October 16
Member No.: 9,221
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Forest River Palomino SS
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 1997 Ford F350 4x4 LB SRW CC 7.3 diesel
Type of Tiedowns used: HappyJac standard
Truck and Camper Setup: 1997 Ford F350 4 door 4x4 Crew Cab 7.3 Diesel, Lance 915 loaded, 2015 Palomino SS1500 Loaded



Interesting camper. My question is of course, did you check it for water intrusion and/or when was the last time the original owner checked the seals. Reason I ask is I see what appears to be some issues on the pasaenger side bunk area. Hard to tell with the low resolution picture but it looks like there is an intrusion issue there.

Campers can look nice on the outside and be rotten underneath the outer skin.

Why camper builder have gotten away from front windows like yours. Intrusion was a big issue.

Easy way to tell is lift the mattress and look closely under it at the front of the camper and/or insde the storage cabinets on each side at the outer edges. If you have any water stains in those places, you have a water intrusion issue and a camper of that vintage will be rotting away under the skin and it's a very, very expensive fix.

Remember, wood rot creates mold and mold spores are hazardous to your health.

I'd have a look-see before comissioning it for use.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Chief 2
post Jul 5 2017, 05:22 AM
Post #5





Group: Members
Posts: 31
Joined: 19-March 17
Member No.: 9,469
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Lance
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 2005 Chevrolet 3500 4x4
Type of Tiedowns used: Happijac with Quick Loads
Truck and Camper Setup: 2005 Chevy 3500 4x4 Edge Attitude, 4" exhaust, Airaid Air Intake, Ranchos, Air Bags, Hellwig Big Wig, Cabover struts. Lance 1172 loaded with 200 watt Renogy solar and Zamp controller



Increase your tire pressure to 80 psi. and see if that helps. I would also consider lowering the air bag pressure to where the truck just sits level. To much air will give you a bouncy feel and with to much air your suspension/springs are not engaging. You may also want to consider a Hellwig Big Wig rear sway bar. Made a big difference in my truck.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
SidecarFlip
post Jul 5 2017, 12:05 PM
Post #6





Group: Members
Posts: 342
Joined: 15-October 16
Member No.: 9,221
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Forest River Palomino SS
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 1997 Ford F350 4x4 LB SRW CC 7.3 diesel
Type of Tiedowns used: HappyJac standard
Truck and Camper Setup: 1997 Ford F350 4 door 4x4 Crew Cab 7.3 Diesel, Lance 915 loaded, 2015 Palomino SS1500 Loaded



I run the stock sway bar on my F350 but with custom disconnect links (front and back) I broke a couple links running off road so I made up a set of disconnects. Heavy duty sway bars limit the articulation of the axles quite a bit.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Chief 2
post Jul 6 2017, 06:44 AM
Post #7





Group: Members
Posts: 31
Joined: 19-March 17
Member No.: 9,469
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Lance
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 2005 Chevrolet 3500 4x4
Type of Tiedowns used: Happijac with Quick Loads
Truck and Camper Setup: 2005 Chevy 3500 4x4 Edge Attitude, 4" exhaust, Airaid Air Intake, Ranchos, Air Bags, Hellwig Big Wig, Cabover struts. Lance 1172 loaded with 200 watt Renogy solar and Zamp controller



QUOTE(SidecarFlip @ Jul 5 2017, 12:05 PM)
I run the stock sway bar on my F350 but with custom disconnect links (front and back)  I broke a couple links running off road so I made up a set of disconnects.  Heavy duty sway bars limit the articulation of the axles quite a bit.
*


They also help considerably with body roll when travelling on normal roads.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
DWJoyce
post Jul 6 2017, 08:04 PM
Post #8





Group: Members
Posts: 11
Joined: 8-May 17
Member No.: 9,537
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Lance
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: '66 Chevy K10
Type of Tiedowns used: Don't know
Truck and Camper Setup: 8' cabover with helper strings on the rear of the truck. In the process of rebuilding an old camper with rotten floors and a leaking roof. Will add a toilet and shower and replace the icebox with a refrigerator.



If you have wood rot and can do woodworking the fix is inexpensive but time consuming. I was given a 1980 cabover camper with nearly perfect siding and windows. When I put it on the truck it nearly fell apart. I've replaced the entire base and most of the wood for about $300 in wood, screws, glue, and something like 100 hours so far. If it didn't enjoy this kind of work I would have just sold the windows and siding and taken the rest to the dump.

In other words: the outside can look great, but the inside can be completely rotted and useless. I'll post a few photos of my project.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
SidecarFlip
post Jul 7 2017, 09:49 PM
Post #9





Group: Members
Posts: 342
Joined: 15-October 16
Member No.: 9,221
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Forest River Palomino SS
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 1997 Ford F350 4x4 LB SRW CC 7.3 diesel
Type of Tiedowns used: HappyJac standard
Truck and Camper Setup: 1997 Ford F350 4 door 4x4 Crew Cab 7.3 Diesel, Lance 915 loaded, 2015 Palomino SS1500 Loaded



QUOTE(DWJoyce @ Jul 6 2017, 08:04 PM)
If you have wood rot and can do woodworking the fix is inexpensive but time consuming. I was given a 1980 cabover camper with nearly perfect siding and windows. When I put it on the truck it nearly fell apart. I've replaced the entire base and most of the wood for about $300 in wood, screws, glue, and something like 100 hours so far. If it didn't enjoy this kind of work I would have just sold the windows and siding and taken the rest to the dump.

In other words: the outside can look great, but the inside can be completely rotted and useless. I'll post a few photos of my project.
*



No doubt. Can look like a 'silk purse' on the outside and be a 'sow's ear' between the outer skin and the interior walls.

Which is why I sand to look where I said to look. That is where you'll find signs of intrusion and if they are visible on the inside, the rot is well progressed under the interior walls.

I mentioned it because in the pictures you can see the telltale black above the moulding under the cab over and a black streak coming down from the side window, all signs of water intrusion.

I don't have hundreds of hours of spare time to rebuild any camper and I don't want to, why I buy new and maintain the seals. Just sold my 2001 lance and it had no intrusion issues because I stayed after the seals and my new one gets inspected every 3 months, stem to stern and if I find anything suspect, it gets recaulked with the appropriate material, Sikaflex, Dicor lap or self levelling (sepending on surface application and butyl tape if required.

It's a nice camper and maybe the price was right but looks to me like it has some issues that need to be addressed.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
DWJoyce
post Jul 22 2017, 03:50 PM
Post #10





Group: Members
Posts: 11
Joined: 8-May 17
Member No.: 9,537
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Lance
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: '66 Chevy K10
Type of Tiedowns used: Don't know
Truck and Camper Setup: 8' cabover with helper strings on the rear of the truck. In the process of rebuilding an old camper with rotten floors and a leaking roof. Will add a toilet and shower and replace the icebox with a refrigerator.



QUOTE(SidecarFlip @ Jul 7 2017, 09:49 PM)
...inspected every 3 months, stem to stern and if I find anything suspect, it gets recaulked with the appropriate material, Sikaflex, Dicor lap or self levelling (sepending on surface application and butyl tape if required.
...


I'm now at the point where I'm putting the siding back on my project. The Aluminum siding has at most 3/16" projections and is nearly flat at the windows, hatches and door.

What materials would you suggest for sealing the windows, hatches and door? Butyl tape was originally used for building it in the 70s and it leaked like a sieve. I'm sure there are better materials now...

I'll be using it off road at times on my 4x4 truck so I need it to hold up.

Thank you.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
SidecarFlip
post Jul 23 2017, 12:45 PM
Post #11





Group: Members
Posts: 342
Joined: 15-October 16
Member No.: 9,221
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Forest River Palomino SS
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 1997 Ford F350 4x4 LB SRW CC 7.3 diesel
Type of Tiedowns used: HappyJac standard
Truck and Camper Setup: 1997 Ford F350 4 door 4x4 Crew Cab 7.3 Diesel, Lance 915 loaded, 2015 Palomino SS1500 Loaded



QUOTE(DWJoyce @ Jul 22 2017, 03:50 PM)
I'm now at the point where I'm putting the siding back on my project. The Aluminum siding has at most 3/16" projections and is nearly flat at the windows, hatches and door.

What materials would you suggest for sealing the windows, hatches and door? Butyl tape was originally used for building it in the 70s and it leaked like a sieve. I'm sure there are better materials now...

I'll be using it off road at times on my 4x4 truck so I need it to hold up.

Thank you.
*



I still use butyl tape in some applications (like under roof vent flanges) but I use Dicor self levelling, Dicor Lap sealant or Sikaflex. The caulking tube synthetics really hold up well and flex, even when on there a while. Never use silicone on anything.

Butly tape also works under windpw flanges with a follow up bead of Dicor aropund the edge.

Be careful with butyl tape. Some sellers sell plumbers putty tape for butyl. Butyl is always a light brown color, putty tape is white and putty tape is junk.

No matter what you use, the key is maintaining it. I do a seal check every 3 months, I run my TC off road as well.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post

Reply to this topicTopic OptionsStart new topic
2 User(s) are reading this topic (2 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:
 

Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 23rd October 2017 - 10:11 AM