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> Stable setup?, 1998 3500 DRW 12V 5 speed w/3500lb TC

alittlesideways
post Feb 15 2015, 07:56 PM
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Joined: 15-February 15
Member No.: 7,979
Favorite Truck Camper(s): S&S
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 98 Dodge Ram 3500 Dually Single Cab
Type of Tiedowns used: Torklift
Truck and Camper Setup: 98 Dodge Ram 3500 Dually Single Cab, 2004 S & S Ponderosa Series M-11-DB .Rear Firestone airbags.



Hello Truck camper forum..
I just bought a truck camper (2004 S & S Ponderosa Series M-11-DB ) a deal I could not turn away. It is Heavy around 3600lbs loaded with water, 60 gal of propane for the generator, quality truck camper I must say, cant wait to use it to go fishing... the truck( 98 12v Single Cab, 8ft bed 2wd with 130K) has air bags, and stock moog front springs. I put about 70 psi in all 6 tires and both Firestone airbags to 70psi , the truck feels a little wobbly at high speed (65 +) and over bumps in town, but I'm getting used to it, got 16 mpg hauling it home from PA in 40mph headwind, and it pulls like almost not loaded. ( < Buying a SuperhHitch with 48in extension to tow my 12ft trailer(Dreaming).>)

Should I buy a club cab 4x4 ? Duramax club cab 4x4? or any upgrades like heavy duty front springs, front air bags ? Blistens ? Rear end Mods besides airbags on my 2wd? Is it Normal to have a camper this size with a 2wd and possible towing? Always have a failed ball joint in the back of my mind..

I had a 39ft toy hauler 10K. I owned and towed with this same truck and it did fine... I have a good bit of $ in this truck, has banks twin intake and banks turbo kit, other than that stock and new front end parts, new standard gear and trans 5 speed upgraded , Double disk south bend clutch, new rear.. List goes on..

Any input from other truck camper owners over 3000Lbs about how there rig drives would be great? I just want input before i dump more cash into the truck , Pacbrake, Front and rear Hitch..Etc..There is pic of Rig in my avatar .
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SidecarFlip
post Jul 5 2017, 12:05 PM
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Group: Members
Posts: 472
Joined: 15-October 16
Member No.: 9,221
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Forest River Palomino SS
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 1997 Ford F350 4x4 LB SRW CC 7.3 diesel
Type of Tiedowns used: HappyJac standard
Truck and Camper Setup: 1997 Ford F350 4 door 4x4 Crew Cab 7.3 Diesel, Lance 915 loaded, 2015 Palomino SS1500 Loaded



I run the stock sway bar on my F350 but with custom disconnect links (front and back) I broke a couple links running off road so I made up a set of disconnects. Heavy duty sway bars limit the articulation of the axles quite a bit.
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Chief 2
post Jul 6 2017, 06:44 AM
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Group: Members
Posts: 59
Joined: 19-March 17
Member No.: 9,469
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Lance
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 2005 Chevrolet 3500 4x4
Type of Tiedowns used: Happijac with Quick Loads
Truck and Camper Setup: 2005 Chevy 3500 4x4 Edge Attitude, 4" exhaust, Airaid Air Intake, Ranchos, Air Bags, Hellwig Big Wig, Cabover struts. Lance 1172 loaded with 200 watt Renogy solar and Zamp controller



QUOTE(SidecarFlip @ Jul 5 2017, 12:05 PM)
I run the stock sway bar on my F350 but with custom disconnect links (front and back)  I broke a couple links running off road so I made up a set of disconnects.  Heavy duty sway bars limit the articulation of the axles quite a bit.
*


They also help considerably with body roll when travelling on normal roads.
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DWJoyce
post Jul 6 2017, 08:04 PM
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Group: Members
Posts: 14
Joined: 8-May 17
Member No.: 9,537
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Lance
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: '66 Chevy K10
Type of Tiedowns used: Don't know
Truck and Camper Setup: 8' cabover with helper strings on the rear of the truck. In the process of rebuilding an old camper with rotten floors and a leaking roof. Will add a toilet and shower and replace the icebox with a refrigerator.



If you have wood rot and can do woodworking the fix is inexpensive but time consuming. I was given a 1980 cabover camper with nearly perfect siding and windows. When I put it on the truck it nearly fell apart. I've replaced the entire base and most of the wood for about $300 in wood, screws, glue, and something like 100 hours so far. If it didn't enjoy this kind of work I would have just sold the windows and siding and taken the rest to the dump.

In other words: the outside can look great, but the inside can be completely rotted and useless. I'll post a few photos of my project.
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SidecarFlip
post Jul 7 2017, 09:49 PM
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Group: Members
Posts: 472
Joined: 15-October 16
Member No.: 9,221
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Forest River Palomino SS
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 1997 Ford F350 4x4 LB SRW CC 7.3 diesel
Type of Tiedowns used: HappyJac standard
Truck and Camper Setup: 1997 Ford F350 4 door 4x4 Crew Cab 7.3 Diesel, Lance 915 loaded, 2015 Palomino SS1500 Loaded



QUOTE(DWJoyce @ Jul 6 2017, 08:04 PM)
If you have wood rot and can do woodworking the fix is inexpensive but time consuming. I was given a 1980 cabover camper with nearly perfect siding and windows. When I put it on the truck it nearly fell apart. I've replaced the entire base and most of the wood for about $300 in wood, screws, glue, and something like 100 hours so far. If it didn't enjoy this kind of work I would have just sold the windows and siding and taken the rest to the dump.

In other words: the outside can look great, but the inside can be completely rotted and useless. I'll post a few photos of my project.
*



No doubt. Can look like a 'silk purse' on the outside and be a 'sow's ear' between the outer skin and the interior walls.

Which is why I sand to look where I said to look. That is where you'll find signs of intrusion and if they are visible on the inside, the rot is well progressed under the interior walls.

I mentioned it because in the pictures you can see the telltale black above the moulding under the cab over and a black streak coming down from the side window, all signs of water intrusion.

I don't have hundreds of hours of spare time to rebuild any camper and I don't want to, why I buy new and maintain the seals. Just sold my 2001 lance and it had no intrusion issues because I stayed after the seals and my new one gets inspected every 3 months, stem to stern and if I find anything suspect, it gets recaulked with the appropriate material, Sikaflex, Dicor lap or self levelling (sepending on surface application and butyl tape if required.

It's a nice camper and maybe the price was right but looks to me like it has some issues that need to be addressed.
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DWJoyce
post Jul 22 2017, 03:50 PM
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Group: Members
Posts: 14
Joined: 8-May 17
Member No.: 9,537
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Lance
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: '66 Chevy K10
Type of Tiedowns used: Don't know
Truck and Camper Setup: 8' cabover with helper strings on the rear of the truck. In the process of rebuilding an old camper with rotten floors and a leaking roof. Will add a toilet and shower and replace the icebox with a refrigerator.



QUOTE(SidecarFlip @ Jul 7 2017, 09:49 PM)
...inspected every 3 months, stem to stern and if I find anything suspect, it gets recaulked with the appropriate material, Sikaflex, Dicor lap or self levelling (sepending on surface application and butyl tape if required.
...


I'm now at the point where I'm putting the siding back on my project. The Aluminum siding has at most 3/16" projections and is nearly flat at the windows, hatches and door.

What materials would you suggest for sealing the windows, hatches and door? Butyl tape was originally used for building it in the 70s and it leaked like a sieve. I'm sure there are better materials now...

I'll be using it off road at times on my 4x4 truck so I need it to hold up.

Thank you.
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SidecarFlip
post Jul 23 2017, 12:45 PM
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Group: Members
Posts: 472
Joined: 15-October 16
Member No.: 9,221
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Forest River Palomino SS
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 1997 Ford F350 4x4 LB SRW CC 7.3 diesel
Type of Tiedowns used: HappyJac standard
Truck and Camper Setup: 1997 Ford F350 4 door 4x4 Crew Cab 7.3 Diesel, Lance 915 loaded, 2015 Palomino SS1500 Loaded



QUOTE(DWJoyce @ Jul 22 2017, 03:50 PM)
I'm now at the point where I'm putting the siding back on my project. The Aluminum siding has at most 3/16" projections and is nearly flat at the windows, hatches and door.

What materials would you suggest for sealing the windows, hatches and door? Butyl tape was originally used for building it in the 70s and it leaked like a sieve. I'm sure there are better materials now...

I'll be using it off road at times on my 4x4 truck so I need it to hold up.

Thank you.
*



I still use butyl tape in some applications (like under roof vent flanges) but I use Dicor self levelling, Dicor Lap sealant or Sikaflex. The caulking tube synthetics really hold up well and flex, even when on there a while. Never use silicone on anything.

Butly tape also works under windpw flanges with a follow up bead of Dicor aropund the edge.

Be careful with butyl tape. Some sellers sell plumbers putty tape for butyl. Butyl is always a light brown color, putty tape is white and putty tape is junk.

No matter what you use, the key is maintaining it. I do a seal check every 3 months, I run my TC off road as well.
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