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> Looking for advice, Thinking of buying need advice.....

emcvay
post Apr 12 2017, 08:53 PM
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Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: Ford F350 Crew cab long box
Type of Tiedowns used: Torklift
Truck and Camper Setup: 2010 F350, 1995 Fleetwood Angler 9D



QUOTE(emcvay @ Apr 12 2017, 01:16 PM)
Found the owners manuals (she had them still).....think it looks like the water flows in the back and the stuff I see in front are drains or overflows.  Will have to check to see if propane makes it to the pilot light and then see if it will light etc...should have water flow through it regardless unless they somehow plugged it off.

Might have to be buy new wink.gif  Don't want leaks!

I've been using a 'can apply when wet' sealer I found at HD...seems to be working to keep things dry so maybe, just maybe, I've got the main leaks all plugged.  Don't see any wet wood now so crossing fingers.

Then if I get the hot water and heater working I can look at putting some wood in where it's weak (ply) and will contemplate opening up the side in the future to put some studs in....or may just flog it after this summer
*



Just what the owner said. I plan to go out and turn on the propane and see if I can get gas coming out the pilot. I can light the way I did my tent trailer (with a long lighter)....it appears to have water as I can get it by running the hot or cold tap.
user posted image

I think it's hooked up. Just waiting for the weather to improve (it's been raining) to go out and give it a try. I'll report back
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emcvay
post Apr 12 2017, 08:59 PM
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Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: Ford F350 Crew cab long box
Type of Tiedowns used: Torklift
Truck and Camper Setup: 2010 F350, 1995 Fleetwood Angler 9D



QUOTE(SidecarFlip @ Apr 12 2017, 06:30 PM)
Nice mill btw.  I cut a lot of trees on my property and give all the wood away.
*



Thanks smile.gif It's my second Wood-mizer. The first was the LT10 which I then put on a custom trailer and pulled around to mill for others.
user posted image

We called it the LT10 Super or Super Manley LT10 (Manley is a family name).

user posted image
Then I got serious smile.gif

Almost at 70,000 board feet with the new mill and wanted a camper to cut on drive time (or tent time)....so nice to have my little home on the job site!

Next year I'll buy a newer camper for sure I'm thinking but I want to make this one work first.
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emcvay
post Apr 12 2017, 10:46 PM
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Type of Tiedowns used: Torklift
Truck and Camper Setup: 2010 F350, 1995 Fleetwood Angler 9D



user posted image
Found the water shut off to the hot water tank.

One question: if there is no water in the tank would the heater run anyway?

Also (ok this is two now), will it need a new anode if it hasn't been used in several years?
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emcvay
post Apr 12 2017, 10:50 PM
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Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: Ford F350 Crew cab long box
Type of Tiedowns used: Torklift
Truck and Camper Setup: 2010 F350, 1995 Fleetwood Angler 9D



QUOTE(RV_Tech @ Apr 8 2017, 10:04 AM)
All RV furnaces are about the same in terms of how they work. If you understand one, you pretty much understand them all. Doesn't that Angler just have the standard snap action thermostat on the wall? After that it needs 12-volts DC and propane. If nothing at all happens, check the fuse first in the distribution panel.

Steve
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Yes.

All that happens is it clicks. At first it tripped the little breaker in the heater (behind the grill)...after I reset it a few times it stopped tripping (might be lack of usage).

I also found the fuse (main panel has two) for the no.2 circuit (surflo pump on it) was not seating right, after messing around I fot it to seat ok and the circuit worked. I'm not sure this camper hasn't sat more years than the owner indicated...at least she waxed it a lot LOL not sure that helps much but I see the water beading up on the aluminum and she did say she waxed it.
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towpro
post Apr 13 2017, 09:23 AM
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Truck and Camper Setup: 2016 Arctic Fox 990



QUOTE(emcvay @ Apr 12 2017, 10:46 PM)
Found the water shut off to the hot water tank.

One question: if there is no water in the tank would the heater run anyway?

Also (ok this is two now), will it need a new anode if it hasn't been used in several years?
*




I removed picture, but its only 2 posts back.
the water flows the direction of the "wing" or handle on that valve.
you need to fill the hot water heater before turning on the heat. yes it can try to heat while empty, but I don't think its too good to do that. turn on water, than open valve inside to let hot water fill up.
see that over pressure valve on outside of hot water heater? don't open that. when you bleed air out of system by using inside sink, a little bit of air will remain in tank to act as a buffer as the water heats up, the pressure can rise. but you can't compress a liquid so this little bit of air acts like a buffer.
if you were to open this outside valve that last air will come out and it has been known to cause the outside valve to leak at times.


first turn on the gas. start stove to bleed air out of system. turn off stove once you get fire.

looking at your water heater, in that hole you have a 2 small lines, one goes to a probe which is used to tell the gas valve that the pilot light is lit or not, and the little pipe for the pilot lite. than the big tube is your burner tube.

turn knob to pilot, than you may have to press it in, or turn it further than pilot depending how your system works, as you hold lit lighter in hole, between upper and lower tubes shown in picture you should see wind blowing out of the pilot hole. this wind will turn into gas, which will lite. once that upper tube gets hot enough, you will be able to let off the knob so it returns to just pilot position and flame stays lit.

next turn to valve to on, and hot water heater will lite.

now does it blow a lot of black smoke out top? or sound like a whistle? or seam to be burning inside that large tube going into hole? if yes, shut if off and clean the bugs out of that large tube.
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RV_Tech
post Apr 13 2017, 03:46 PM
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QUOTE(emcvay @ Apr 12 2017, 11:50 PM)
Yes.

All that happens is it clicks.  At first it tripped the little breaker in the heater (behind the grill)...after I reset it a few times it stopped tripping (might be lack of usage).

I also found the fuse (main panel has two) for the no.2 circuit (surflo pump on it) was not seating right, after messing around I fot it to seat ok and the circuit worked.  I'm not sure this camper hasn't sat more years than the owner indicated...at least she waxed it a lot LOL not sure that helps much but I see the water beading up on the aluminum and she did say she waxed it.
*



Regarding the furnace, does the fan blow? The first thing that should happen is the fan should start up to clear the combustion chamber (safety feature). Then the furnace goes to ignition with the ignitor sparking and the gas valve opening.

If ignition fails, the furnace will not try go to ignition again until you turn the thermostat off and back on. Since your equipment has not been used in a while, it may take a couple of tries to get gas through the line. After that, if you still have nothing, a closer look is necessary. If you have a meter, your next step would be to check the gas valve. It is a duplex solenoid (again for safety) and if you ohm each solenoid you should get about 40 ohms on each. If you are not sure how to do that, look for 12-volts to the gas valve to see if it is getting power from the board. If you have not power to the valve, you most likely need a new module board.

Steve
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RV_Tech
post Apr 13 2017, 03:58 PM
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QUOTE(towpro @ Apr 13 2017, 10:23 AM)
I removed picture, but its only 2 posts back.
the water flows the direction of the "wing" or handle on that valve.
you need to fill the hot water heater before turning on the heat.  yes it can try to heat while empty, but I don't think its too good to do that.  turn on water, than open valve inside to let hot water fill up.
see that over pressure valve on outside of hot water heater?  don't open that.  when you bleed air out of system by using inside sink, a little bit of air will remain in tank to act as a buffer as the water heats up, the pressure can rise.  but you can't compress a liquid so this little bit of air acts like a buffer.
if you were to open this outside valve that last air will come out and it has been known to cause the outside valve to leak at times.
first turn on the gas.  start stove to bleed air out of system.  turn off stove once you get fire.

looking at your water heater, in that hole you have a 2 small lines, one goes to a probe which is used to tell the gas valve that the pilot light is lit or not, and the little pipe for the pilot lite. than the big tube is your burner tube.

turn knob to pilot, than you may have to press it in, or turn it further than pilot depending how your system works, as you hold lit lighter in hole, between upper and lower tubes shown in picture  you should see wind blowing out of the pilot hole.  this wind will turn into gas, which will lite.  once that upper tube gets hot enough, you will be able to let off the knob so it returns to just pilot position and flame stays lit.

next turn to valve to on, and hot water heater will lite. 

now does it blow a lot of black smoke out top? or sound like a whistle? or seam to be burning inside that large tube going into hole?  if yes, shut if off and clean the bugs out of that large tube.
*



Do not under any conditions attempt to fire the water heater without water in the tank. You will blow the thermofuse in the gas valve which means you will need a new valve. It is not resetable.

You should open the temperature/pressure relief valve on the outside of the water heater at the top monthly during the operating season when the tank is cold to clear out calcium build up. If you do not and let it go for a long time, it will not reseat when you open it.

The proper way to establish the air pocket in a water heater is to fill the water heater with the relief valve open so water runs out. Then shut off the water to the camper and open the galley faucet. When water stops running out of the relief valve, shut off the faucet inside and close the relieve valve. The air pocket will be reestablished, but it is normal for the air pocket to gradually be absorbed and need to reestablished several times a year. A sign the air pocket is lost is when the relief valve drips, which is a normal consequence and does not mean the valve has to be replaces as long as it is just a drip.

Normally when I put a water into operation that has not been fired in a while where the gas line may be empty, I crack the gas line connection on the gas valve until I smell propane. The pilot orifice is extremely small and it can take an eternity to get the pilot lit if the camper has been out of service for a while. Lighting the cooktop gets propane into the line part way, but how much that helps depends on how far the cooktop is from the water heater.
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RV_Tech
post Apr 13 2017, 04:09 PM
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QUOTE(RV_Tech @ Apr 13 2017, 04:46 PM)
Regarding the furnace, does the fan blow? The first thing that should happen is the fan should start up to clear the combustion chamber (safety feature). Then the furnace goes to ignition with the ignitor sparking and the gas valve opening.

If ignition fails, the furnace will not try go to ignition again until you turn the thermostat off and back on. Since your equipment has not been used in a while, it may take a couple of tries to get gas through the line. After that, if you still have nothing, a closer look is necessary. If you have a meter, your next step would be to check the gas valve. It is a duplex solenoid (again for safety) and if you ohm each solenoid you should get about 40 ohms on each. If you are not sure how to do that, look for 12-volts to the gas valve to see if it is getting power from the board. If you have not power to the valve, you most likely need a new module board.

Steve
*



I went online and found a link for Suburban furnaces http://www.bdub.net/manuals/Suburban_Service_Manual.pdf

I know some look difference than others, but the only thing that really changes is the position of the components when troubleshooting. Naturally gas lines are never left open and anytime a gas line connection is opened, after reconnecting it is always checked for leaks. The explosive power of propane is really impressive and the presence of propane at a component is never checked with a flame! smile.gif

Steve
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SidecarFlip
post Apr 14 2017, 11:28 AM
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Favorite Truck Camper(s): Forest River Palomino SS
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 1997 Ford F350 4x4 LB SRW CC 7.3 diesel
Type of Tiedowns used: HappyJac standard
Truck and Camper Setup: 1997 Ford F350 4 door 4x4 Crew Cab 7.3 Diesel, Lance 915 loaded, 2015 Palomino SS1500 Loaded



Suburban furnaces use a sail switch for proving flame and they tend to stick when not used for a time. I think first thing I'd do is insure no 'insects' have set up residence inside and if they have clean it out with compressed air and check the proving sail switch for free movement. You can buy cover screens for the inlet / outlet on a Surburban, I'd suggest getting one and getting one for the HWH as well.

My next camper will have a catalytic heater not forced air. Takes up less space, basically maintenance free.
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RV_Tech
post Apr 14 2017, 03:39 PM
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QUOTE(SidecarFlip @ Apr 14 2017, 12:28 PM)
Suburban furnaces use a sail switch for proving flame and they tend to stick when not used for a time.  I think first thing I'd do is insure no 'insects' have set up residence inside and if they have clean it out with compressed air and check the proving sail switch for free movement.  You can buy cover screens for the inlet / outlet on a Surburban, I'd suggest getting one and getting one for the HWH as well.

My next camper will have a catalytic heater not forced air.  Takes up less space, basically maintenance free.
*



You already know the sail switch is working because the furnace is going to ignition. If the sail didn't close, you would not hear the ignitor clicking. Again it is a safety feature making it impossible for the furnace to ignite unless the combustion chamber is clear. smile.gif

Steve
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emcvay
post Apr 20 2017, 07:32 PM
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Truck and Camper Setup: 2010 F350, 1995 Fleetwood Angler 9D



user posted image
First, I tried to fill the hot water heater. Turned on the pump after plugging the tanks outlet hole which was open when I bought the tank (I'm assuming that is what it is because it goes into the tank and has a plastic screw plug that was out) and opening the relief valve which did move.

However, I discovered there are two valves to route the water past the tank or to it/from it and the bottom valve is frozen though I think I moved it just enough to partially cut off the water from either direction. Now the pump cycles every few seconds and I can feel the pressure in the line going to the tank.
So, I'll have to order a new valve and am wondering how bad the inside of the hot water heater is.

user posted image
On to the heater which is a Hydroflame. I blew it out best I could and tried to start it again to see what it does. No fan. Some clicking and the 5amp breaker pops. I'm guessing maybe a bad blower motor?

So at this point I have to ask myself: is it worth it? I'm told a blower motor is around $180 and then of course having someone who knows what they are doing look at it.....and then there is the hot water...I could just make due until winter and then flog it.
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SidecarFlip
post Apr 20 2017, 08:14 PM
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Truck and Camper Setup: 1997 Ford F350 4 door 4x4 Crew Cab 7.3 Diesel, Lance 915 loaded, 2015 Palomino SS1500 Loaded



The only way you'll find out if the blower is tied up is pull the furnace. If it is and you are at all handy, you can free it and oil the bushings and be good for the time it takes to pull it. Could be a mouse nest in there too but you won't know until you pull it.

Try soaking the stuck valve with PBlaster or liquid wrench and let it sit a day and then wiggle it.

The only 'touchy' point is the gas connection. Everything else is a screwdriver affair.

Look at it this way. You get everything ship shape, you have a nice camper that you refit yourself.
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emcvay
post Apr 20 2017, 09:21 PM
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Truck and Camper Setup: 2010 F350, 1995 Fleetwood Angler 9D



OK I'll have to yank the heater out and try soaking the valve. Was looking online to see where I could get a replacement valve...didn't see any like these just some plastic jobs...anyone have a source?

Also wouldn't mind finding some hardware replacements.
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emcvay
post Yesterday, 09:23 PM
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Truck and Camper Setup: 2010 F350, 1995 Fleetwood Angler 9D



A little too busy between my job and my milling business to get much done but I did remove one rotten piece of 1/4" ply from under the left side (facing the camper) and replace it. The 1x's were fine and it appeared to be pretty much just a spacer/cover for the 1" insulation under that part of the floor. I put in a new piece and used liquid nails and staples to secure it. I'll paint with undercoat to protect it soon also.

Then I removed a layer off the other side (right -- under the storage compartment) and undercoated what was left. Later I'll replace that section also now that I know what it is.

Just really minor stuff but every little but counts right? Sealed up a few more spots too but no leaks (and a lot of rain) since I brought it home and sealed it a few weeks back (or is it longer now)....

Gotta use it this weekend then maybe I'll have a weekend off that I can do a little more on (like pull the heater). Still haven't gotten the hot water to work either (sheesh) but I'll live without it (baby wipes) for a weekend of milling.

What I'm hoping to find is a place I can purchase latches, trim etc for older campers (1995) but I haven't yet.
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