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> New camper - 200 lbs too heavy?, Looking for some quick advice

waivej
post Dec 12 2011, 09:22 PM
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Group: Members
Posts: 2
Joined: 12-December 11
Member No.: 5,763
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Skamper ??
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: Mazda B4000, Isuzu Amigo
Type of Tiedowns used: DIY Belly Bar with ratcheting straps
Truck and Camper Setup: 1984 Skamper (budget fixup) on 1996 Mazda B4000.



Hi Guys,

Please pardon the beginner questions. I'm realize that everyone asks the same questions. Though could you give me a little quick advice? I have a 1984 Skamper Truck Popup (8 foot) on a 1996 4WD Mazda B4000 that I'm fixing up on a small budget.

1) The entire rig with me weighs 5200lb. The truck is rated for 4980lb (3960lb empty). I see some things I could remove (me, plow frame, belly bar, broken truck AC, converter, ancient Dometic)...but I'd love to bring my girl and some gear. How would you make this a safe rig? I can weld/modify/remove the bed/move the spare, etc. but am less likely to buy expensive stuff. Note: I have stock suspension.

Also, the camper is 8" too wide to fit between the wheel wells. This would lower it 10" since I wouldn't need the platform. Could I just take the front half of the floor 4" on each side? Is this crazy or basic wood working?

Thanks,
John
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Dave D.
post Dec 22 2011, 11:32 PM
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Group: Members
Posts: 43
Joined: 25-November 10
Member No.: 5,037
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Looking for Pop-up
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 2011 Silverado WT 1/2 ton
Type of Tiedowns used: none yet
Truck and Camper Setup: Still shopping



Campers built for the Ford Ranger (Mazda B4000) have a 36 inch box. Sounds like you have a 44 inch camper designed for the Dodge Dakota. I had a 7ft jayco on my dodge dakota. I did add an extra leaf spring and belly bar. Truck sat level and never looked overloaded with the small pop up. I may have been overloaded with the 1,400 lb payload. One year we put 6000 miles on travelling across Canada and through the mountains, two kids, wife and I. No issues. In the context of how others overload their trucks, 200 lbs is not much. For sure, loose the plow frame, keep the belly bar. You will need to have a good look at the lift mechanism, wiring, propane gas lines etc before cutting.
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Dave D.
post Dec 22 2011, 11:37 PM
Post #3





Group: Members
Posts: 43
Joined: 25-November 10
Member No.: 5,037
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Looking for Pop-up
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 2011 Silverado WT 1/2 ton
Type of Tiedowns used: none yet
Truck and Camper Setup: Still shopping



on a side note, my camper had a 7 ft box on a 6.5 foot box Dakota so did not extend past the rear bumper. An 8 ft box camper could be an issue depending on your bed length. You need to locate (on internet) the Centre of gravity on the camper and note where it lines up on your truck. At or behind the rear axle will cause handling issues and overload rear axle. IE 100 lbs overload on front and rear axle might not be a big issue, but 500 lbs over on rear and 200 lbs under on front would be an issue. Good Luck
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waivej
post Dec 28 2011, 12:21 AM
Post #4





Group: Members
Posts: 2
Joined: 12-December 11
Member No.: 5,763
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Skamper ??
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: Mazda B4000, Isuzu Amigo
Type of Tiedowns used: DIY Belly Bar with ratcheting straps
Truck and Camper Setup: 1984 Skamper (budget fixup) on 1996 Mazda B4000.



Thanks for all of the great information! That was super helpful. I found the center of mass (a little in front of the axle) and thought about ways I could shift weight forward (like moving the spare tire). I also will read more about the "heavy load" package that came as an option on my truck. It looks like it was just an extra leaf and wider tires. It only adds 200lbs GVWR but that's all I need to be within spec.
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