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emcvay Posted on: Nov 2 2018, 07:26 AM





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I run the 990 on an F350 SRW and had the same issue. The fix? For the most part it was Rancho 9000's. The shocks are adjustable and I set the rears to 9 (hardest) and fronts to 7 and the porpoising stops for the most part.

Also added upper and lower stable loads which all but made the air bags an after thought now and added a Hellwig BigWig rear sway bar.

Lastly, don't forget tires! The 990 is a heavy beast at nearly 5000lbs when fully loaded so you will need good tires. I run the Toyo's which are rated at 4080lbs per tire
  Forum: Support Equipment · Post Preview: #3111158 · Replies: 5 · Views: 78,108

emcvay Posted on: Nov 2 2018, 07:20 AM





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Interesting thread. I tend to run my bags around 25lbs based on feel but in truth I'm not sure I need them at all really because I run upper and lower stable loads, big wig rear sway bar and rancho 9000's

When empty I drop the bags to 5lbs (min recommended setting) to help lower the rear of the truck since adding them seems to have lifted it slightly. I fill to desired amount once the camper is loaded.

I'm running an AF990 on an F350 PS CC LB 4x4
  Forum: Support Equipment · Post Preview: #3111151 · Replies: 4 · Views: 79,216

emcvay Posted on: Apr 5 2018, 07:04 PM





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Just saw this.

My old Fleetwood Angler 9D had a dry weight of 1680lbs according to fleetwood. I did not weigh the truck and camper but I'm very certain it was well under GVW as it had no options and even with 30 gallons of water (240lbs) and 5 gallons of propane (20lbs or so) it wouldn't come close to the slide in camper weight of 3370lbs much less the vehicle total GVW.

HOWEVER, I am now overweight.

I weighed today with full tanks and propane and 95% ready to roll out for the weekend. I won't normally have full water (no need for that much!) and intend to use only one propane tank but that would only save me about 230lbs or so and not get me below GVW.

2010 Ford F350 SD PS 4x4 Crew Cab -- estimated weight (since I have yet to weight it without tailgate etc -- is 7900lbs
2019 Arctic Fox 990 -- dry weight 3600lbs (maybe but I'm guessing more wink.gif )

CAT Scales:
Front Axle -- 5200lbs
Rear Axle -- 7680lbs
Total -- 12880 lbs

I have Toyo 4080lb tires so I'm under what they can carry though it's been pointed out the wheels are only rated at 3750 (so 7500lbs) and I'm over that by 180lbs

Stable Loads (upper and lower) and air bags (at 18psi) and the truck sits level (actually level without the air bags at all but I like to have them to pump up the rear if needed for towing).

So I'm over by 1380lbs without driver and passenger sad.gif

I'd hoped to be a tan lighter and I suppose with half the water and propane and just me in the cab I'll be about 12880 (minus the water etc plus me).

Not sure what else I can do to lower that a little but for now I'm going to go with it and see how things bear out. I may move to a dually next year depending on how I feel it does this year. So far though, I've driven in some heavy cross winds and it was fine.

No worries driving or breaking wise but I'm sure it's hard on the bearings etc.
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3110805 · Replies: 15 · Views: 70,829

emcvay Posted on: Apr 2 2018, 08:14 AM





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QUOTE(mbrink @ Dec 28 2017, 05:45 PM)
I have had a truck and camper since 2011.  Often towed a 7000 flat bed with trailer behind the camper.  I used the Torklift dual receiver, with the Super Truss extension.  Never an issued.   

3 years ago got a new camper, and a new Super Truss.  I have since got a new truck and bought a new Super Truss.

I have my 2 year old, used once, extension on Market forum.    Hope someone can use it for half what it cost new
*



Sell it?
  Forum: Towing and Trailering · Post Preview: #3110783 · Replies: 1 · Views: 35,504

emcvay Posted on: Feb 8 2018, 08:53 AM





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I see questions like this asked all over the net but the one thing I haven't seen is anyone siting a single case of a civil suit where a camper on a pickup that was over the GVW being the reason etc, for the accident and therefore a reason for compensation.

I suspect the reason is that the door sticker doesn't actually mean a whole lot. Yes I said that. The sticker police will want to argue but it matters not. Site a case.

The axle on my truck is actually rated by the manufacturer at 9750lbs not the 7000lbs Ford rates it at. This is because of lawyers. The FMC rates the truck based on the 'weakest link' and since the tires are rated at 7000lbs (3500 ea) they rate the rear axle accordingly. Yes they also rate the springs etc etc but they always go by the lower number 'to be on the safe side'. So, should someone replace said weaker components then they may no longer be over their GVW by any reasonable measure.

It might be mentioned that court findings are often based on whether or not a person knowingly or intentionally did one egregious act or another. So if one plopped a 12 foot camper on a 1500 and went and wrecked it's likely they would be at fault and lose the battle. Whereas, someone with a built F350 who plops a 9 footer with a sticker on the back that says 3000# who gets in an accident is not likely to be found to knowingly or intentionally doing anything wrong. Sure they might be over, but did they know that (prove it), and were they over the sticker? The real axle weight? The sum of the components? Did they put new E rated 4400# tires and wheels on? Replace the spring pack Put new better shocks on? Were they towing? If not, were they over what the manufacturer said the brakes are able to stop? All of these things come into play and many of the overweight rigs I've discussed with others are only overweight by the door sticker but not the axle or the components they've added to allow for the extra weight.

Just my 2c
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3110501 · Replies: 24 · Views: 119,509

emcvay Posted on: Feb 7 2018, 12:37 AM





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QUOTE(SidecarFlip @ Feb 2 2018, 04:28 PM)
I have a BD unit on my 97 7.3.  It's a complex install but works well.  Did the pedestal delete too.
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Turns out my 2010 has one built in and I didn't even know it!
  Forum: Towing and Trailering · Post Preview: #3110487 · Replies: 6 · Views: 47,763

emcvay Posted on: Feb 1 2018, 12:09 AM





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https://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p-8700-...owerstroke.aspx

I've been doing some research and am thinking of installing one of these in my 2010 F350 6.4l SD

Anyone do this?
  Forum: Towing and Trailering · Post Preview: #3110451 · Replies: 6 · Views: 47,763

emcvay Posted on: Jan 11 2018, 08:53 AM





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Fortunately I have neighbors who plow once in a while (when the snow builds up) and I try to get in and do so also. We have had 4-5 feet on the ground up there before I bought and it appears we're headed back that way (neighbors tell me it's cyclical and we're headed back to deeper snow). Last year we had two feet that stuck around a while (snow, melt, snow some more, melt, repeat).

Thanks for the kind note on the mill. I need to do some new ones!
  Forum: Truck Camper Specs · Post Preview: #3110325 · Replies: 11 · Views: 105,967

emcvay Posted on: Jan 10 2018, 05:34 PM





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Was at an RV lot and saw a Dodge 3500 SRW (fairly new) deliver an Arctic Fox 1140 (or 1150)....only mod he had was airbags and claimed it drove very well. I saw he had Toyo's which I think have a higher weight cap.

Point? He had to be WAY over as the 1140/50 showed 3895 dry weight no options on the back.

He was also pulling about a 30 foot trailer.
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3110311 · Replies: 24 · Views: 119,509

emcvay Posted on: Jan 10 2018, 09:55 AM





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Drove my 9D right up there. Sure, had some branches scrape now and again, but no damage at all. Just had to take it very slow.

Now, to be fair, the 9D is not nearly as tall as the new campers with basements and more headroom etc but still, the OP asked about 4 wheelin' biggrin.gif
  Forum: Truck Camper Specs · Post Preview: #3110309 · Replies: 11 · Views: 105,967

emcvay Posted on: Jan 9 2018, 05:22 PM





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I took my Angler 9D off road several times with no issue. Steep grades, 4low, lots of rocking back and forth etc but I took it slow and didn't rush. I'll see if I can find any pics of where I've taken...oh wait, here, this road I've done with the camper but on this trip I was in my work truck, it was just to show what the road to our cabin is like in the winter.

Enjoy:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vCEg3henqDE

Note: The rough sections starts 2:20 into the vid
  Forum: Truck Camper Specs · Post Preview: #3110301 · Replies: 11 · Views: 105,967

emcvay Posted on: Jul 14 2017, 08:10 AM





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Hmmmmm certainly gives me some things to think about.

I may just buy new. My payload on this truck is 3370lbs so I should be fine with something in the 2000-2500lbs range and the tongue weight on my mill is only about 150lbs - so I'm not too worried there.

I'm thinking sticking with a 9 foot camper (maybe as much as 9'9") as I'm hearing from dealers those are about as big as they recommend for a 1 ton SRW 4x4 crew like mine.

I realize I can put AC in this unit and may do that but it needs other work too and I just don't feel like doing it all LOL I've done the structural stuff to get buy but this camper is also too small for my truck. I have to put 2" insulation under it so it doesn't rub on the cab and it's too short for my long box and slightly rubs the passenger tailight which irritates me. Also the tie downs are RIGHT in the way of the fuel cap. I have to take off the drivers side tie down to fill up. I can move the Torklifts to push the tie down back out of the way a bit but then the camper slides back in the box too.

Also, I want electric jacks. I put it on and off alone everytime and think those would be worth the money.

Anyway, I'm going to do the minor things needed to turn this $700 camper into a $2000+ camper, sell it and stick that money in the 'camper fund' for the next one smile.gif And the next one will likely be a new one as I'm kinda worried about what I might find in a an older one now! HA!
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3109501 · Replies: 19 · Views: 34,354

emcvay Posted on: Jul 10 2017, 05:48 PM





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I'm looking for some options in a camper that this one doesn't have. AC for one as it gets HOT here in the eastern part of WA, entertainment for those evenings after milling would be nice, LED's to save the battery, bigger toilet area (I'm 245lbs so have to shoehorn in there), MW for quick meals in the field would be nice and of course a queen sized bed and more storage.

Also want some awnings for shade during breaks smile.gif

I figure I may buy new next year but will sell this one in the fall to hunters and save the money for a downpayment
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3109479 · Replies: 19 · Views: 34,354

emcvay Posted on: Jul 10 2017, 08:41 AM





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Thanks

Only worries I have now are: did I get enough support built in to not pull down the new section of wood -- I think I did, I think I have more support now than the original manufacture had. We will see.

And, is the nut portion of the tie down bracket weak? I had to drill out the old tie down bolt section (the part left after it broke) and tap it out leaving it less than idea. I noticed when tightening the new tie down in the final install that it felt like I better stop. Just one of those feelings you get that if you ignore sometimes results in a stripped nut wink.gif Not sure but I stopped and hope I didn't go too far. Seems solid though.

Worst case is I'll have to open the siding again and install a longer bolt with a nut on top. Not a big deal really, just a pain in the rear.

Going to have to seal it all up but first want to get it on the truck and go for a test drive smile.gif
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3109475 · Replies: 19 · Views: 34,354

emcvay Posted on: Jul 9 2017, 09:21 PM





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user posted image
Finished!

user posted image
I still need to silicone the seems etc but I think she'll hold now smile.gif
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3109471 · Replies: 19 · Views: 34,354

emcvay Posted on: Jul 9 2017, 05:25 PM





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user posted image
The new tie inserted in the new plate

user posted image
And the simspon tie.

Still much to do but I can wait for the glue to cure now.

The plywood is ugly but I think once it's treated and the siding is back on it won't matter
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3109469 · Replies: 19 · Views: 34,354

emcvay Posted on: Jul 9 2017, 05:02 PM





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I cut out 39" of the broken base plate and scabbed in a replacement from DF#2 I cut down on my table saw -- basically the same thing I did for the other side except not the entire side.

After drilling the hole for the tie down and removing the broken bolt and running a tap through the nut side so I could put a new bolt in, I drilled the base plate for the tie down and glued it in place with liquid nails and then screwed it to the studs with 3 1/2" self tapping wood screws (deck screws).

Then I placed a 16" simpson strong tie metal tie and screwed it into the new base plate section and the good old one.

Now I'll put some 90 degree brackets and some T brackets in to strengthen the connection to the studs and put it all back together with the final step being that I will use Git Rot on the bad plywood to try to tighten it up a bit under the base plate and finally stuff the insulation back in and affix the siding I lifted to affect the repairs.

Then I'm going to call it and head out on my next trip smile.gif

and sell in September!
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3109467 · Replies: 19 · Views: 34,354

emcvay Posted on: Jul 8 2017, 01:33 PM





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user posted image
Damaged tie down -- not as bad as I feared.

user posted image
Good wood immediately to the right of the bad tie down

user posted image
Since this side is 90% good strong wood I'm thinking of going back about 3 feet and putting in the new plate to there then re-enforcing it by placing a secong on top of it between the studs. Basically I will scab in a 3 foot section of the base plate and place a second 1x2 on top of it (glued and screwed) and use metal T brackets to tie everything together to ensure the draw down on the Tie Down will draw down on more than just a corner.

Make sense?

I'm wondering if 3 feet is over doing it? Can I get away with two feet? 18" Metal across it and call it good?
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3109463 · Replies: 19 · Views: 34,354

emcvay Posted on: Jul 5 2017, 01:24 PM





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Guess I need a new place to host them
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3109451 · Replies: 19 · Views: 34,354

emcvay Posted on: Jul 5 2017, 08:00 AM





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I have the right side which was fixed earlier, so without the left there were three. What I did was tie it down off the jack (see pic) and that seemed to work but the camper appeared to shift rearward on me an inch or so....this also happened before tieing it down this way I think as the rear tie downs got loose on my way home from a show. They see to do this after 50 miles or more over rough road.
user posted image
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3109445 · Replies: 19 · Views: 34,354

emcvay Posted on: Jul 1 2017, 07:50 PM





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This: Tied down to the back.

Should have said 'tied down to the jack'
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3109437 · Replies: 19 · Views: 34,354

emcvay Posted on: Jul 1 2017, 11:23 AM





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Tied down to the back. Only problem is the camper shift back an inch or so but other wise feels good and rides stable
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3109431 · Replies: 19 · Views: 34,354

emcvay Posted on: Jun 30 2017, 03:31 PM





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So I was thinking it was time to strengthen the left side of the camper which had a sagging tie down in the front. I decided to try to pull the siding up enough to access the frame, remove the tie down bolt and tie down metal, then screw through the base plate which I thought was probably not rotted out (because it had been pretty solid to this point) and put it all back together. I figured the staples they used on the 1994 Angler 9D were rusted out and broke (which appears a common problem) and a nice 3" screw into the stud would hold it.

I was wrong.

First the tie down bolt broke, then I saw there was no stud near the tie down like there was on the other side and finally, I had no way to fix it without removing the camper from the truck and stripping the siding off etc, to put in a new base plate.

So here I am, no tie down, need the camper tonight for a job out of town and thinking that I could chain up the jack so I can tie down to it to get me buy for the weekend and then I'll have to remove the camper and rebuild that side.

Thoughts?
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3109427 · Replies: 19 · Views: 34,354

emcvay Posted on: Jun 28 2017, 08:52 AM





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Quick update:

I backed the camper into my son-in-laws car while backing my sawmill up into the driveway in a hurry! DOH! All I hit on the camper was the right rear jack. $900 damage to the little car (ouch) and the camper jack was loose with not so good wood behind it....so I tried Git-Rot after some advice from a boat builder turned body many (basically let the git rot start to cure before jamming it in there and putting the screw in behind it.

This seems to have worked as the camper comes on and off the truck ok now though I will need to do more repairs I think.

Meanwhile I replaced the thermocouple in the hot water tank but it did not make much difference. Ignite the pilot, start the hot water, blue flame, runs maybe a minute to 90 seconds and then dies and the pilot goes out too.

I'm wondering if I adjusted the pilot if it would make a difference? I'm also wondering if I need to pull the whole thing to see that nothing is blocking the flew (that I can't see now).
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3109421 · Replies: 58 · Views: 89,557

emcvay Posted on: May 16 2017, 02:58 PM





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The Happijack tie downs had good instructions and only needed 1/4" on the spring side and 'snug' on the back. Little loose on the back after 200 miles but I don't see that as an issue and will tighten them.

All in all seem to work well for $114!
  Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #3109219 · Replies: 13 · Views: 25,667

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