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> Possible buyers remorse?, bought too big of a camper for my truck?

Kingfish
post Apr 19 2016, 05:08 PM
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Group: Members
Posts: 2
Joined: 19-April 16
Member No.: 8,881
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Northstar
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 2014 F-250 Lariat 4x4 6.5 bed bsuper cab
Type of Tiedowns used: fASTGUNS
Truck and Camper Setup: 2014 F-250: tembrens, Fastguns tie downs, 2016 Northstar 850sc



Hi everyone, I recently bought but have not yet picked up a 2016 Northstar 850sc camper which weight approximately 2500 lbs wet. I will be placing this on my 2014 F250 Lariat 4x4 crew cab, 6.75 bed w/ 6.7L diesel. My GVWR is 10,000, pay load of 7,260 lbs. The sticker in my door jam says I'm good for 2000 lbs of people and gear. I did not realize this at the time I purchased the truck camper. I've seen other trucks that are the same model as mine that have even bigger campers on them. I'm now starting to worry that I may have purchased too large/heavy of a camper. Any words of advice?? I would appreciate any tips or words of wisdom from those of you who have been around the camper scene. Thanks in advance!
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Freespool
post Jun 4 2016, 08:02 AM
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Group: Members
Posts: 167
Joined: 2-June 16
Member No.: 8,975
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Still deciding
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 2016 GMC3500dualyy4x4diesel
Type of Tiedowns used: Torklift with Fastguns
Truck and Camper Setup: The plan will utilize a 3500 GMC with a 11 or 12' TC with a full compliment of Torklift hitch components and tie downs. Stable loads if needed will be installed.



Kingfish, I am confused. Without looking up the weights that apply to your rig due to time simply double check your GVWR listed on your truck and online and the dry weight of the Pop up. What is the 7260 number? Truck weight. My GMC has a sticker in the drivers door jamb that lists the max. payload weight, take your truck to a scale and get the true weight, then you will know the 3 critical numbers. Now just do the simple math. Remember the max. payload includes tongue weight as well as everything on the camper. Gas, propane, battery, clothes, food, coolers, everything. IMO, running overweight by a few hundred pounds is harmless when using today's powerful trucks. Proper tie downs, weight dist, and good E rated tires are mandatory. Insurance and liability are the two reasons you should try to stay within your stated GVWR.
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Freespool
post Jun 12 2016, 12:04 PM
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Group: Members
Posts: 167
Joined: 2-June 16
Member No.: 8,975
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Still deciding
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 2016 GMC3500dualyy4x4diesel
Type of Tiedowns used: Torklift with Fastguns
Truck and Camper Setup: The plan will utilize a 3500 GMC with a 11 or 12' TC with a full compliment of Torklift hitch components and tie downs. Stable loads if needed will be installed.



Kingfish, I am still a little confused. Ford stated the GVWR is 10K, and the payload is 1797 total. This means the truck should weigh 8203 which can't be right. My 2016 GMC, 4x4,, diesel, long bed, crew cab with half a tank of fuel weighs 8040 and it's a dual wheel truck. You need to know exactly how much your truck weighs. Pay the 8 bucks and find out, then start doing the math. You will be over if the dry weight as stated by Northstar is 1735 DRY and you only have 1797 to work with. There are plenty of things you can do although none of them will increase your legal posted payload weight. Chances are you have a boat or a bike trailer or maybe just a small utility trailer. Pack extra weight there, like spare tires, coolers, propane bottles, and can goods. Running with a half tank of fuel could save you 150 pounds. Pulling a trailer is part of your GCVWR and you will have plenty for most trailers. Unless you have a bunch of kids I could see you running only 5-600lbs over which is hardly the crime of the century. Also don't fill your water tank, 5 gallons splashing around is plenty. Let us know
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md11hog
post Aug 10 2016, 03:36 PM
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Group: Members
Posts: 1
Joined: 19-November 14
Member No.: 7,867
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Artic Fox
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: Ford F350 SRW, Crew Cab
Type of Tiedowns used: Fastguns
Truck and Camper Setup: Artic Fox 811 StableLoads Upper and Lower



You are going to have an awesome rig. You're truck may need a couple of stable loads to dramatically improve handling. If you'r not happy with the way you're rig handles, buy the upper load stabilizers 1st and then the lowers. http://www.torklift.com/index.php/products...sion/stableload
My camper is 1000 pounds heavier and no issues.
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SidecarFlip
post Oct 16 2016, 10:45 AM
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Group: Members
Posts: 472
Joined: 15-October 16
Member No.: 9,221
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Forest River Palomino SS
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 1997 Ford F350 4x4 LB SRW CC 7.3 diesel
Type of Tiedowns used: HappyJac standard
Truck and Camper Setup: 1997 Ford F350 4 door 4x4 Crew Cab 7.3 Diesel, Lance 915 loaded, 2015 Palomino SS1500 Loaded



Lets add something that most people disregard when hauling a camper (or anything) that loads the truck, the moving parts, wheel bearings, ring and pinion, brake shoes and/or pads all need to be maintained on a frequent basis.

I sometimes wonder just how many owners ever check or change the differential oil? Not many I bet.

When you apply a load (or an overload which is the case with many slide in campers, your components, especially the axle components and brakes need close monitoring and fluid changes.

Same applies to the transmission, especially if it's an automatic. Everyone changes their oil regularly (I hope) but how many owners check the transmission fluid regularly... or change it and the filter? Not many I bet.

A burned up transmission (from lack of preventative maintenance) can cost thousands of dollars, leave you stranded and faced with a hefty tow bill too.

Everytime I check my motor oil, I check the trans as well. I look at the fluid color and smell it. If it stinks, it's on the road to failure.

My transmission fluid and filter gets changed every 10K miles and my differentials (I have one in the front and the rear) get a lube oil change every 3 years. All the universal joints, slip splines and chassis components get greased every 5,000 miles and not at a 10 minute oil change either. I get under there and do it myself. I'm 67 and I can do it...so can you.

An ounce of prevention is worth a ton of grief on the road.
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Murdog
post Nov 28 2016, 04:21 PM
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Group: Members
Posts: 7
Joined: 28-November 16
Member No.: 9,285
Favorite Truck Camper(s): Northern Lite
Type and Brand of Truck(s) Owned: 2013 Ford F250 Diesel 4x4 crew cab
Type of Tiedowns used: Torklift Fastguns
Truck and Camper Setup: Ford F-250 Diesel 10,000 GVWR. modifications include; Extra Large rear sway bar, air bags, stable loads, Rancho 9000 adjustable shocks.



QUOTE(Kingfish @ Apr 19 2016, 06:08 PM)
Hi everyone,  I recently bought but have not yet picked up a 2016 Northstar 850sc camper which weight approximately 2500 lbs wet.  I will be placing this on my 2014 F250 Lariat 4x4 crew cab, 6.75 bed w/ 6.7L diesel.  My GVWR is 10,000, pay load of 7,260 lbs.  The sticker in my door jam says I'm good for 2000 lbs of people and gear. I did not realize this at the time I purchased the truck camper.  I've seen other trucks that are the same model as mine that have even bigger campers on them.  I'm now starting to worry that I may have purchased too large/heavy of a camper.  Any words of advice??  I would appreciate any tips or words of wisdom from those of you who have been around the camper scene.  Thanks in advance!
*


I have the same truck as your's just 1 year older. My Northern Lite camper is definitely heavier than your Northstar, and I initially had the same concern. My truck took a few modifications to make it handle the load, but it does great. Stable loads that go between the spaces in the leaf springs are a huge improvement and are cheap. Start with that. I also added air bags, beefy sway bar and Rancho 9000 shocks. You might not need all of those. Also, E rated tires are a must. Your truck will do great with that camper, but again, you might need some mods.
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